Box finger joints - Page 7 - Router Forums
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post #61 of 79 (permalink) Old 12-09-2015, 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by BernieW View Post
Yep finger joint or box joint is one and the same. Somebody thought a fancy name like finger joint would sell more bits ($$$$$).
No, I don't think so. Try to fit a finger joint (tapers to a point) at a 90 degree angle. Maybe a finger joint is a type of box joint, or vice versa, but they are distinct, and I think finger=tapered is a good distinction. Now, on to the other pages I have not yet read.
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post #62 of 79 (permalink) Old 12-09-2015, 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Herb Stoops View Post
Phil, great looking boxes, and box joints too. You are a craftsman, I just think that a beginner would do better learning how to do box joints on a table saw. Maybe I am wrong, but the cutting of the box joint is the easy part, laying them out and making them tight is the tough part. If you are off just a hair on the first one the second one is off 2 hairs and so on till the last one is off so much that they don't fit together. And where you start on which edge of the board, and on each end of the board so you don't get one board up and one board down

Herb
Thanks for the compliments. Much appreciated.

My experience is exactly backwards from that, though. Not saying you are wrong (because you are pretty much always right), I just went a different direction.

About a year ago, I made my first box joint with a home built jig on the table saw using a dado blade. Results were disheartening. I was able to tune it up so it would work reasonably well but never got joints that I was super happy with. And making 4 sets of cuts exactly correct was a challenge. Version 2 jig was also on the TS and while it was better, set up and tuning were required each time I used it. So I made a couple of boxes for the shop but nothing that I felt was "brag worthy". One of the key issues is you have to move the workpiece(s) to the next key location which makes it hard to have super consistent cuts - each cut requires exact positioning and pressure. That makes it way easy to get the cascading errors that you pointed out. Also, while the dado was mounted, the TS was out of commission for normal use.

Then I got the LS system for my RT. HUGE difference. Fast set up, precise repeatable cuts and my TS was usable at the same time. The way you clamp the workpieces makes for a very consistent depth of cut, angle and position relative to the fence. There was a relatively small learning curve but now, with the cut workpieces in hand, I can bang out a complete set of box joints in about 20 minutes with the LS. Set up is just a few minutes and the cutting goes very quick. It's not fool proof but Incra has done a great job of making it easy to be consistent - you just have to be within 1/32" and it locks you into the correct position every time. If I were starting all over again, I'd go straight to the LS or similar positioner and do them on the router table.

Measure twice, cut once and CROSS OUT THE WRONG MARKS.

Visit my shop website.
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post #63 of 79 (permalink) Old 12-09-2015, 06:20 PM
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[QUOTE=Herb Stoops;949985]Gary, I see where the Rockler XL box joint jig has a double backer board to sandwich the board between.
Rockler XL Router Table Box Joint Jig | Rockler Woodworking and Hardware

I visited Rockler a week ago and that jig just jumped into my hands and bought itself. Santa will hand it over at Christmas, although my wife says she can just wrap the empty box. I was particularly impressed by the sandwiching setup. I know you can make that jig, but some things I'd rather buy, and this is one of them. I have 19 drawers to make out of 1/2 inch baltic birch, so it will get a workout. I'll review soon. Here's the link: Rockler XL Router Table Box Joint Jig | Rockler Woodworking and Hardware
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post #64 of 79 (permalink) Old 12-09-2015, 06:27 PM
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Rockler"s jig is so nice. But Santa is starting to make chocking noises, so I have to slow down. I still need him to buy wood...lol

~M

Heaven help you all. I am a wordy thing, long in love with the how and why behind almost everything...
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post #65 of 79 (permalink) Old 12-09-2015, 06:31 PM
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Having done some smaller box joint work I know you should be using spiral bits. I ordered a couple in HSS for the new XL jig. I have used carbide spiral bits, but they are extremely fragile. For light duty use, the HSS should last long enough. A little sharpening might also be possible to extend their lives. The XL jig cuts from 1/2 to 3/4 stock, and both bits were less than $25 bucks.
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post #66 of 79 (permalink) Old 12-09-2015, 06:32 PM
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[quote=DesertRatTom;950097]
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Originally Posted by Herb Stoops View Post
Gary, I see where the Rockler XL box joint jig has a double backer board to sandwich the board between.
Rockler XL Router Table Box Joint Jig | Rockler Woodworking and Hardware

I visited Rockler a week ago and that jig just jumped into my hands and bought itself. Santa will hand it over at Christmas, although my wife says she can just wrap the empty box. I was particularly impressed by the sandwiching setup. I know you can make that jig, but some things I'd rather buy, and this is one of them. I have 19 drawers to make out of 1/2 inch baltic birch, so it will get a workout. I'll review soon. Here's the link: Rockler XL Router Table Box Joint Jig | Rockler Woodworking and Hardware

What width box joints are you going to make,Tom?

Be sure to give us a review of new jig.

Herb
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post #67 of 79 (permalink) Old 12-09-2015, 06:34 PM
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Booooo... (Ba dum bum, tsss!) drum noise.

Okay, ROUTER BIT QUESTION:
a 3/4" spiral bit is too far out of my budget at $60 and up.

Can I get by with a 3/8" spiral cut bit, and just make two passes to make the gap/tooth 3/4" wide?

From what I've read, in general, you want your teeth/gaps to be the same size as the wood, in this case, 1x10's, meaning they are 3/4" thick.

While I could just make a poop load more teeth, I'd rather have the larger size to make fabrication easier when I glue and staple/brad the boxes together.
But if it is impractical to try to make a larger opening with the smaller bit, They will just be more of a "comb box joint" set up.

~M
High Speed Steel upcut bit was less than 20 bucks. You don't need to go for carbide, and the carbide spiral bits are easily damaged.
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post #68 of 79 (permalink) Old 12-09-2015, 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Moz View Post
Of course you can!
Just don't expect it to be 'gap free,' is all...
This is NOT tapered finger joints, but gives an approximation of the gap idea...
And, those tapered gaps would be a deliberate design choice...

Here's one using Tapered Finger Joints...


~M
Looks like a Don't Do This warning to me.
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post #69 of 79 (permalink) Old 12-09-2015, 06:51 PM
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One thing I wanted to add for what its worth. I have the rockler box joint jig. I was having problems with actually getting the box joint to work. I was doing it on the router table, when I would pull the wood back, the "tooth" would get broken off each time. So when I was done, it looked like a piece of wood with a toothless grin. I think the problem was partially because there is a bit of play in the jig so I wasn't pulling it exactly straight back. I also think I was using the wrong type of bit. I was using a common straight cutting bit. It was pointed out to me that a spiral upcut bit would work better. Just something for Moz when she gets to that point in making box/finger joints.


Gary
I had similar problems with their smaller jig. I think you could either use a bit of low friction tape or wax on the miter bars. I also had problems being able to clamp the piece to a sacrificial fence. So, cut a much taller fence and put a little sandpaper on it. Then clamp the workpiece to the tall fence before passing it over the bit. This thing really wants to walk. I also solved this problem on a shop made jig, by putting a layer of aluminum coated duct tape on the side of one runner. The walking problem disappeared. The XL jig has metal runners, but I am likely to wax the miter slots at the first sign of binding.
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post #70 of 79 (permalink) Old 12-09-2015, 06:54 PM
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Thanks for the compliments. Much appreciated.

starting all over again, I'd go straight to the LS or similar positioner and do them on the router table.
Phil, I had to go look up what you were talking about.

That Incra LS Positioner is like going to a Porche from a Ford. I can see you point of view.

A fellow woodworker has the IBox jig from incra and raves about it too.

Guess I just like my homemade ones and I am used to them.

Herb
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