Cast Iron TS Extension table question - Router Forums
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-01-2016, 09:00 PM Thread Starter
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Default Cast Iron TS Extension table question

Just starting to get into my wood working, I've upgraded from the light duty table saw to a Ridgid hybrid. I had a cheap Ryobi table top router table that was OK to start with, but was planning on building a better table. I found a deal I couldn't pass up on a Cast Iron Table saw extension. For me at this point and time the extension has more ups than downs. The added weight, and space savings are huge and since the hybrid saw has pop up wheels I can move the saw/router table to where I want to use it.

The downside. The insert cutout is for a 9" x 12" insert. It came with a phenolic insert. I started looking into lifts and realized that it was going to be very hard to find. I think I'm going to use a cheap router for now, and when the funds come available invest in a Triton TRA001. So the question is when I go with the Triton is the phenolic going to be thick enough, or should I make something a little beefier? I was thinking of grabbing a piece of 1/2" thick aluminum and milling it out when I go that route.

Thanks for any input.

Doug
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-01-2016, 10:11 PM
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I use woodpeckers insert plate it is pre-drilled for the Triton mounting screws but you have to drill hole for crank. However not all inserts are the same size so check size closely If it was me I would use the top as a separate Router Table. Or as a unit that can be clamped to a bench if you need flexibility Sounds like a fun RT to build.

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-01-2016, 10:44 PM
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I also use the Woodpecker insert for my TRA001. It is a bit thicker than most of the other plates, and a bit larger. When you get the plate, if the size opening is too small, you can buy their template, or you can take four pieces of wood and clamp them into place to guide your router to cut to the correct size and depth. The Woodpecker plate is pre drilled for the Triton, but I did have to drill a separate hole for the above table height adjustment rod. The thing I like best about the Woodpecker plate, however, is the twist lock insert, which makes it easy to handle matched bits, such as those from Marc Sommerfeld.

I had originally purchased a Rockler lift, but that lift and the Bosch 1617 in it cost a lot more than the Triton, with the built in lift. When you remove the spring from the Triton to make it work in the table, open the spring chamber carefully and find a safe place for the spring. Watch Marc Sommerfeld videos on YouTube, he uses the same setup and the videos are a really great guide to getting the most from your router and table.

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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-02-2016, 06:29 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the input guys. Unfortunately the only plates I've seen on Woodpeckers site are 9-1/4" x 11-3/4", and the extension wing I picked up is 9" x 12". With the table being 60lbs and Cast Iron I'm not going to be able to easily change the opening size. I may check with Woodpecker to see if they offer a 9" x 12" plate.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-02-2016, 08:20 AM
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The closest I have seen is 9-1/32" x 12-3/32"
That is a MCLS plate have used one so can't comment on the plate but it close to your needed size.

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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-02-2016, 09:50 AM
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Hi Doug,

I have the MLCS cast iron router extension wing. I have a Triton TRA001 router mounted to the phenolic plate that came with the extension and it supports the router just fine. I always leave the router installed in the extension. As Ed mentioned, the MLCS plate dimensions are 9-1/32" x 12-3/32. Mine came with plastic snap in inserts to accommodate various size bits. I have attached a couple of photos of my setup.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-02-2016, 12:50 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys. I can get phenolic plates from Peachtree right down the road. They're just out of the Aluminum plates. I was mainly concerned on the weight of the Tra001 if the phenolic would be OK or if I'd have to find an aluminum plate. If they don't have the aluminum ones when I finally get my Triton I'll just purchase a phenolic and then order some a chunk of aluminum and mill it out to make my own.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-02-2016, 01:30 PM
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My Triton is mounted to a Kreg insert plate. I don't fool with a lift. I simply "lift" the whole thing out of the hole if I need to. I do this when I cover the hole with a blank I made so I can use the table for assembly stuff.

Same with the Bosch on the other end of the table. No lift, just take it out, change the bit and set it back in place.

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http://www.routerforums.com/show-n-t...able-more.html

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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-02-2016, 05:38 PM
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I have a Porta Cable 690 router with through the top height adjustment. Bosh also makes one and there may be others. I really like having that perk.

Don in Murfreesboro,Tn.

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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-02-2016, 10:31 PM
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You might consider cutting down the Woodpecker plate itself. It is aluminum so it can be cut, and you can file the corners to fit the steel top. But you might also find a plate that's the right size for the opening, and drill your own mounting holes. The people producing the cast iron top should have a suggestion about the plate that fits it. Use a drill press for these holes! You can drill them a little bit oversize with a flat recess a little bit wider and deeper than the flat mounting screws. This will allow you to center the router in the plate and the much smaller insert.

It may seem odd that some of us keep mentioning the Woodpecker plate, but the plate is VERY heavy, strong and flat. And it has that twist lock for the insert, which if you watch the Marc Sommerfeld videos, is more than just convenient.

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