Zero clearance fence inserts - Router Forums
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post #1 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-28-2008, 10:28 PM Thread Starter
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Default Zero clearance fence inserts

Wanting to make some "zero clearance" inserts (for various bits) for the router table fence.
I learned it's better to ask here before I get something that don't work.
What is the best way to make & lock them in the fence?

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post #2 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-28-2008, 11:14 PM
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HI Dave

The best way is to use a T & G bits,,,BUT it takes a bit of work when you want more so to say a 10 deg.miter works very well...and is a lot quicker when you want more

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bogydave View Post
Wanting to make some "zero clearance" inserts (for various bits) for the router table fence.
I learned it's better to ask here before I get something that don't work.
What is the best way to make & lock them in the fence?


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Last edited by bobj3; 11-29-2008 at 07:26 AM.
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post #3 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-29-2008, 12:29 AM
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There are several advantages in using a tall fence as I do, one of which is it's easy to clamp a strip of thin MDF, typically 3mm, to the fence and withdraw the fence through the cutter to give a genuine ZERO clearance opening as shown.

I've probably posted the pics in reverse order, but not to worry Bj!
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post #4 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-29-2008, 09:13 AM
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That's an awful lot of fences to maintain!
What advantage is there over a split fence?
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post #5 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-29-2008, 10:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghidrah View Post
That's an awful lot of fences to maintain!
What advantage is there over a split fence?
I really do not like the split fence. A split fence is mostly used for jointing, other than that I find it a PITA.

I like to use the pivoting fence and pull the fence into the bit to make a true zero clearance fence. The T& G method for each insert like Bob shows looks cool, I have nothing more than a miter that holds my inserts in like on the CMT fences. Some bit shapes do not leave as clean results when pivoting in to the bits as pulling in both sides of the fence continuously. So for some bit shapes I don't pivot into the bit.

Seeing Bobs method with the T&G I may go there when my current fences need updating.

Harry's tall fence is sweet too.

I like my inserts at least 3/4" though, the same thickness as my fence.

It's one fence and many inserts so there is only one fence to maintain.

I think the benefit over a split fence is there is no adjustment to hassle with. I am sure we all at one time or another have been pushing stock through to find it got caught up on the outfeed fence. The zero clearance of course provides smoother chatter free cutting and probably better dust collection depending on how you collect the dust.

Last edited by dovetail_65; 11-29-2008 at 10:56 AM.
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post #6 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-29-2008, 02:14 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Harry, BJ, Nick.
Gives me ideas to work with.
Probably go with Harry's method first. simple & easy (KISS)
Definitely see the advantages of T&G. but that's down the road, will need new fence faces & get good enough to make the T&G - nuts on. (well, me making a T&G at all will require another new bit order )
Definitely see the need for more than one table & a few fences for each. Didn't know when I made the router table that it was creating a "living organism" that will continually grow. I see many more fun & challenges ahead. For now I plan to get my first table as usable as I can, already see I'm going to modify & add new fence fronts. Clamps, hold downs, bit guards, stop block slots & others.
Thanks again
Dave

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post #7 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-29-2008, 02:20 PM
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Hi Nick

I really like the split fence,,the CMT fence comes with the slide in bars to offset the fence quick and easy,,( 1/16" and 1/32" offset steel bars) that's one of the main reason I got the CMT setup..that and the swing fence..


I use it any time I use a router bit takes off the edge of the stock..or to say puts on a sharp edge on the stock..like a miter bit,lock-miter bit,etc.


====





Quote:
Originally Posted by nickao65 View Post
I really do not like the split fence. A split fence is mostly used for jointing, other than that I find it a PITA.

I like to use the pivoting fence and pull the fence into the bit to make a true zero clearance fence. The T& G method for each insert like Bob shows looks cool, I have nothing more than a miter that holds my inserts in like on the CMT fences. Some bit shapes do not leave as clean results when pivoting in to the bits as pulling in both sides of the fence continuously. So for some bit shapes I don't pivot into the bit.

Seeing Bobs method with the T&G I may go there when my current fences need updating.

Harry's tall fence is sweet too.

I like my inserts at least 3/4" though, the same thickness as my fence.

It's one fence and many inserts so there is only one fence to maintain.

I think the benefit over a split fence is there is no adjustment to hassle with. I am sure we all at one time or another have been pushing stock through to find it got caught up on the outfeed fence. The zero clearance of course provides smoother chatter free cutting and probably better dust collection depending on how you collect the dust.



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post #8 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-29-2008, 02:46 PM
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Hi Dave

You're Welcome for my SMALL part..

But it looks like you are 1/2 way there..

======


Quote:
Originally Posted by Bogydave View Post
Thanks Harry, BJ, Nick.
Gives me ideas to work with.
Probably go with Harry's method first. simple & easy (KISS)
Definitely see the advantages of T&G. but that's down the road, will need new fence faces & get good enough to make the T&G - nuts on. (well, me making a T&G at all will require another new bit order )
Definitely see the need for more than one table & a few fences for each. Didn't know when I made the router table that it was creating a "living organism" that will continually grow. I see many more fun & challenges ahead. For now I plan to get my first table as usable as I can, already see I'm going to modify & add new fence fronts. Clamps, hold downs, bit guards, stop block slots & others.
Thanks again
Dave


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post #9 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-29-2008, 04:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobj3 View Post
Hi Nick

I really like the split fence,,the CMT fence comes with the slide in bars to offset the fence quick and easy,,( 1/16" and 1/32" offset steel bars) that's one of the main reason I got the CMT setup..that and the swing fence..


I use it any time I use a router bit takes off the edge of the stock..or to say puts on a sharp edge on the stock..like a miter bit,lock-miter bit,etc.


====
Well the CMT is neat in that it is a solid one piece fence that can be made to act as a split fence shimming the HPDE fence face on the outfeed side. I actually have two of the fences but never use them for jointing. I could though.

I was referring to a traditional two piece split fence, I just do not like them.
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post #10 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-30-2008, 02:43 AM Thread Starter
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I have 6" between the sliding fences. 45 deg. 2 - 1/2 mdf glued together with formica on the face. If this is enough room, I make the zero clearance inserts a little thicker & plane them down to the right thickness 1-1/32" I think (a piece of 3/4 & 1/2 glued together)

Do they need to be taller than the sliding fence?
Do I need to add a "hold down" or is the friction fit between the 45s OK?

Zero clearance fence inserts-closeup-bit-opening.jpg

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