I really like using pocket hole screws for assembling face frames. Exact end cuts (90) on the rails and stiles and the frame turns out perfect. Measure carefully because you probably want the face frams to be about 1/8 proud.
I don't much like pocket hole screws in visible areas for attaching face frames. I find it very difficult to fill in the plugs completely, so it is obvious I've used them. I generally wind up using glue for a stand alone, like a book shelf. But if you have a line of several cabinets, you can hide them by mounting from the concealed side of the cabinet. if you're using ply or mdf, you are likely to use a 1/4 finished piece over the ends, which will conceal those pocket screws.
As to the bits and Sommerfeld's system, I think they are the very best way to go. I noticed that Freud has begun offering matched sets. Sommerfeld has a star shaped gadget called the EasySet, a jig for setting most of their bits that also takes workpiece thickness into account. It costs $30 and is well worth it. They now offer a second version (red) for Freud bits, and now that Freud sets are matched, that should be good, just check the part numbers to make sure what you buy matches the EasySet numbers. You work face down on the table with these kinds of sets.
I love watching Marc Sommerfeld do his router work. So many years as a cabinet maker really show in his technique. Simple, straightforward.
Freud makes really nice consumer grade bits, but for me, I like the quality of Sommerfeld, also, their packaging of sets is really nice, protective and keeps them all together. Save the YouTube videos to disk (I bought his DVD set for $99) and watch them several times before trying something new. Also write down the sequence he uses to keep on track.
That's my take.
The more I do, the less I accomplish.