I have seen wings you bolt to the esixting wings, but which have an opening for a router and plate. Need to know the brand saw so you can check for matching bolt holes. I agree that you would be just as well off making your own router table. I have seen several YouTube videos on this in the past. The trick is to make it fit as precisely as possible and to work out a way to mount it to the existing hareware so it is perfectly level with the table. I have also seen a couple of stands that sit in that space with storage or drawers, and have levelers on the base so you can align it with the table.
You will also want to use a good router table insert. I'm make the top with at least two, maybe 3 layers. A bottom layer of MDF (flat and stays that way), then a 3/4 layer of baltic birch well connected to the MDF (Always pre drill mdf to avoid cracking), then contact cement a layer of laminate on top. Make the carcus of this unit so that when you add the top, it is about 1/2 - 3/4 inch shorter than the table saw top, then add adjustable levelers to the bottom so you can set the height. Once the height is set, you can bolt the unit to the saw to keep it solid.
On the plate, I'd make certain the plate has a twist lock or magnetic mount for the insert--much easier to deal with than fiddling with 3 tiny screws.
If I were doing this, I'd plan to use the saw's fence on the router too, but I'd find a simple way to use a split fence attached to the back side of the saw's fence. You'll also have to figure out dust collection using this setup.
One last advantage of using a melamine topped extension table as described is that you can add a couple of T-tracks to make mounting a free standing fence easier, and on that you can set up the split fence and an adequate dust collection setup.
The more I do, the less I accomplish.
Last edited by DesertRatTom; 03-07-2017 at 07:33 PM.