This video is a pretty good intro to the topic and includes using a circular saw.
Note that the cuts are being made with the face down for a circular saw. The teeth are rotating up, into the saw. Face down cutting will reduce tearouts and chipping.
I'd use a pretty high tooth count, crosscut blade for this purpose. Cut oversize an inch or two on each side. You'll use a trim router and bit later to clean up the edge and finalize the fit.
You will coat both the top of the table and the bottom of the laminate with a smooth, even coat of contact cement, and let them dry as shown in the video. Using a hard, solid rubber J roller to spread the cement in a smooth, even coat is preferred. Brushing is likely to leave tiny ridges in the glue.
Do not lay the two pieces together yet! Get some 1/2 - 3/4 dowels, enough to lay them on top of the table top, starting from the center and spaced about 6 inches apart with the last two a couple of inches from the outside edge of the table top. You lay the laminate in place atop the dowels and position so it is centered on the top. Carefully remove the center dowel and using a hard rubber roller, press down on the laminate, starting from the center and working out. This is going to position the whole assembly the instant the two pieces touch, so double check the laminate position twice. Roll out all the air bubbles you can by rolling with considerable pressure from the center out.
Remove another dowel (next one out from the center on either side. Repeat rolling it out, from the center out so any air gets pushed out without getting trapped.
Repeat with the next to center dowel on the other side of center. Keep this up until you have one dowel left near each edge. When you remove the last dowel, make sure you lift the edge of the laminate so you don't trap any air bubbles. Roll the laminate down as before. It is easier if you have someone to help you keep the edge elevated as long as possible.
If you trap air bubbles, you may be tempted to use a pin prick to let it out through the laminate, but it is better to locate the bubble and use a tiny drill with a stop collar (tape wrapped round the bit) that will penetrate the wood, but not the laminate. This is a real pain, so it is much easier and worthwhile to take your sweet time rolling out the laminate from center out, one segment at a time. You cannot leave the bubbles or it will cause problems with accurate routing.
Once attached, you use a trim router with a bearing near its tip to trim down the laminate.
The video shows how you can apply laminate to the edge, but personally, I'd finish off the edges with carefully planed hardwood, set dead level with the top.