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Masterforce Router table????

18K views 10 replies 10 participants last post by  RmBrumfield 
#1 ·
I have a Masterforce router (Menards), and want to know which, if any, router tables will work with this router. I bought a Craftsman table, but the MF router doesn't fit.

Or...how do I adapt a router to fit a table?

I am a total novice.

Thanks,

Jim
 
#2 ·
Hey Jim and welcome;

I don't know about the Craftsman table but in most cases you need to drill holes in the tables insert. I am posting this link as an example. The black plate in the middle of that table is what you need to drill your holes in. Take your base plate off your router and it will be easier to mark and drill your holes.

https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/sho...es/router_table4.html#router_table_ext_anchor
 
#3 · (Edited)
What Hawkeyes said...plus, orient it properly when you use it to mark the plate. As though it was on the router if you're marking the bottom of plate and router side down if you're marking the top. It is also important that it be centered properly so the bit is in the center of the insert. Make sure the router ends up in the orientation you want it in. You will also need to taper the holes so the screws sit flush or below the plate surface (countersink)...or counterbore, depending on your mounting screws...
 
#4 ·
Quite a few of the Craftsman tables I've seen are only meant for Craftsman routers or possibly Ryobi since Ryobi makes most of Sears routers. If your table has a stamped steel top with dimples for countersinking the screw heads that hold the router to the table then you'll need some metal working skills to be able to mount that router. It's easy to build your own table to mount the router to and there are lots of old posts about how to do that and of course our members will be glad to help with advice.
 
#6 ·
I have a Menards master craft router. It has a lot of features, BUT I was never able to find a compatible base for it. You will need to drill your own. I don't know if hole spacing is a proprietary thing, but it seems dumb making an ok router incompatible with after market accessories.

FYI: I was able to find a Craftmaster base that came with a sign making kit with holes you can get lined up, but it only came with one bushing, and I have problems finding other bushings that fit the base, so it's limited to making signs.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
#8 ·
Nice you could join the fun. I bought a similar table for a Craftsman router (my first, cheap) and got rid of both after getting and working with a Bosch 1617. I also suggest that you make your own table. Two layers, one of 3/4 ply the other of 3/4 thick MDF glued together. If you put the mdf on the bottom, it will help keep the top flat. I suggest you get a router plate and use your new router to cut the opening. You can use four boards clamped to your table top and fitted to the size of your router plate. Slip a playing card between the plate and the boards to allow a slight amount of wiggle room.

You will want to cut an opening for the router plate, half an inch on each side smaller than the plate (which provides the lip for the plate).
Then with the frame in place, use a router with a bearing on the bottom (where the shaft is), which will rest against the frame and guide the bit. The bit depth is set so it routes the opening a couple of mm deeper than the plate is thick. You'll want to pre drill holes slightly smaller than bolts, which come up from the bottom so you can level the plate with the table top by twisting them until a straight edge shows level on all four sides and four courners.

Many plates can be found pre drilled for the Bosch and/or other brands. If you want to use the rounter you have, many use the same spacing as the PorterCable and Bosch's 3 bolts. Or you can drill your own holes as described above.

The double layer will help keep your table flat. Some folks would like to reinforce with 1x2 trusses, but make sure that material is very straight. You can straighten with a table saw, or get a must have tool, a block plane, and plane it level and flat--kind of a nice experience. Watch videos of tuning and using a plane if you go this way.

You can make a simple 3-sided cabinet to mount the top, or just place it on a couple of saw horses. I'd make the top at least 24 x 36 inches these days, but smaller if I didn't have much space.

There are a lot of designs for a fence, ranging from a flat 2x4 clamped to the table at the edges, to more sophisticated models with replaceable two-part split fence with a standard 2 1/2 inch dust port on the back. YouTube has lots of videos on shop built router tables and fences.

This may be more answer than you need, but it will really serve you to make your own table, which will give you practice with your router and a jig saw and drill.

Here is a diagram of the temporary jig for the plate, and a couple of pictures of home made tables with plates (the open frame table folds up for storage or to relocate. The second is of the plate opening showing the half inch lip. The bit is the type of trim bit you would use for this job. It will be much easier to build than you'd think
 

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#10 ·
I see a lot of odd and never-heard-of routers in Canadian posts. I suspect the incredibly high taxes there motivate router makers to find ways to get around them. This doesn't portend well for the buyer. Relatively small production runs often lead to orphan tools once the maker runs out of spare parts. I really prefer brand name tools for the most part.
 
#11 ·
It's a Menards brand which is American. They might have stares in Kanuk land but I do not know. I do know Menards is having a sale on their 2.5hp digital router, plunge base, & table combo for $219, which is what brought be here, looking for a review. Probably won't use a router often, but that price would mean being able to use one with those accessories when I need /want to.
 
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