Oak-Park style table questions - Pt. 2 - features? - Router Forums
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-16-2017, 09:44 PM Thread Starter
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Default Oak-Park style table questions - Pt. 2 - features?

Probably should have posted pt. 1 in this forum but anyway,,

I am in need of a Router table, and I have decided basically what I want to build. Something very simple, inspired by the Oak-Park style table. But long enough to also work as a bench or assembly table.

It will live under a roof, but exposed to open air.

I have settled on a 2' x 4' workbench type table, with the Router mount near one end. Top will overhang around 2" on 3 sides (for clamping), and one end with no overhang and a Moxon type vise. Probably a 3/4" plywood + 1/2" birch plywood for a 1-1/4" top. Might cover with Laminate, not sure.

No vacuum hookups, nothing fancy in the way of Fences (just clamp-on).

I may decide to put bench-dog holes but not sure - A strip clamped across the width of the table may work just as well as bench dogs, and no need for holes..?

My main question is, what are the simple (DIY) features you built into your table and why do you like them? Or what did you find you did NOT like about your work bench?

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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-16-2017, 10:31 PM
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how about this???
Attached Files
File Type: pdf One-weekend Router Table.pdf (826.7 KB, 96 views)

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If only new layers hadn't been added....

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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-17-2017, 01:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by username1 View Post
My main question is, what are the simple (DIY) features you built into your table and why do you like them? Or what did you find you did NOT like about your work bench?
The fact that I made a spiderweb of 2X4 chunks to support the 1/2" plywood top, and made my own router plates. What's not to like?

There IS no dislike, it does just what I want it to.

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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-17-2017, 01:59 AM
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I'm clamping the fence on the current table just like you. The last one had t track clamping. I haven't found one superior to the other. I do like my fence with moveable faces so that I can close up on a small diameter bit. Both the last two have had that and any future ones will also have that feature. They also had the center section boxed in for dust collection, also a keeper. The last two or 3 tables have had the plate offset to one side so that I can work on one side with narrow pieces and the other side for wide pieces. I'll keep that feature too. All my plates just sit in the table held by gravity. That way I can lift it out to change bits and make the initial height adjustment and it's much easier being able to do that. A laminate cover will last longer and is more slippery but it's not an absolute necessity.
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-17-2017, 04:25 AM
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Laminate the top. The reduced friction will be worth it
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-17-2017, 07:30 AM
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I agree with Charles. Clamping the fence works fine. Having movable sides is imperative to adjust for bit sizes. dust collection is also a must have and it is too easy not to incorporate it into your table. If you stick with a wooden top I suggest you wax it to make things slide easier. That would have to be done periodically and be sure to use a wax with no silicon...Johnson's wax is perfect. I would suggest you go ahead and laminate it. That is a one time deal, doesn't cost much and provides a better work surface.
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-17-2017, 08:21 AM
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All the above ideas are very good, it depends on what you want. My table I built is just like the one that Stick showed you, minus the router. I also added the shelf under the table.
You will be surprised how fast you can fill that shelf up. Plus it adds to the sturdiness of the table.
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-17-2017, 09:44 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the opinions.

Is 2" of overhang sufficient for clamping or have you found the need for more?

Since this is a budget project, would Hardboard be a decent top? I could put it together in a way that I could replace the layer of Hardboard if it got too beat up.

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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-17-2017, 02:10 PM
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1 1/2 to 2" is enough. Just make sure the underside is flat with no lips or dips. The clamps may not stay tight if there are.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-17-2017, 02:33 PM
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There was a thread in 2006 that dealt with many of these issues. I call your attention especially to posts 13 and 14 that deal with the Oak Park (Router Workshop) table dust collection.
http://www.routerforums.com/table-mo...r-table-2.html
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