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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-20-2017, 11:54 AM Thread Starter
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HI- great forum, great posts. I have 2 router tables for my table saw. I have 3-4 old craftsman routers and a new plunge router I got for 14$ about a month ago at sears. It had no collets but I have them-in fact it was just the motor and mount- but for 14$ I didn't care. Somey years ago I got this craftsman aluminum table saw router table insert- 171253510. its holes are drilled for craftsman routers---but an adapter is made for others. Turns out the adapter is a piece flexible plastic- It has predrilled holes for the table- and you drill the holes for your router- then mount it. I didn't trust it being plastic so I made an adapter for my bosch 3/16 aluminum plate. It seems to make a decent table- but its only about 24" to fit many table saws, mine is 27" so I had to buy some aluminum square stock to fill in the edges. The photo (online) of this is--http://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-number/171253510/0247/0744260.html and you can see the aluminum spacers on the edges.

I bought a year or 2 ago- a rockler lift (it was on craiglist for 40$) and bench dog cast iron table saw insert. This thing weighs about 100lbs- its very heavy. The item # is 40-102 its expensive- but the rockler lift fits it perfectly. I currently have the sears mounted in my table saw.

My question is- what side of the table saw insert would the fence go? I put it on the outside- to the right of the bit- does it even matter? All the pics I see its on the left of the bit.

I am thinking of buying a dedicated 3hp plus motor- to put in the rockler lift- and either making a dedicated router table- or exchanging it with sears in table saw.

What if any advantages are there for having the router table mounted in the table saw? Other than space saving in the shop, and maybe having additional space on the saw for large pieces- I can think of none. However with the bench dog the weight is a big advantage since it stablizes the saw.

Also, is there any advantage to buying one of these big motors (3.25hp) over a bosch, makita or dewalt 2-2.5hp range? I did learn about buying cheap bits- now I only buy whiteside, cmt, amana, and others in that league. No more cheapies. Carbide isn't carbide- there is a difference. Thank you!
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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-20-2017, 01:00 PM
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Hello and welcome to the router forum.

Looking forward to your participation.
Filling out your profile to include (first name,tools and short bio is strictly (optional )but does help members to better relate to each other.
Thank You John
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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-20-2017, 01:12 PM
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Hey, Mtsaz; welcome!
Looking at the router in the table, from in front ie the infeed and outfeed are to the right and left of you, the fence goes behind the bit. You feed stock from the right to left...because the router is upside down, making it the opposite to the normal left to right when the router is right side up.
You already know that you NEVER feed the stock between the bit and the fence(?).
(Having said that, I recently was introduced to a jig for making very small mouldings * that did feed between the bit and fence, but the amount of material being removed was extremely small and there were several safety innovations that prevented launching the material.)
Other than that I have nothing.

* it was a luthier doing the mouldings
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Last edited by DaninVan; 07-20-2017 at 01:14 PM. Reason: added text
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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-20-2017, 02:02 PM
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What Dan said about feed direction. The only advantage of having a router in a table saw wing is the space savings. Everything else is a disadvantage. If you try using the table saw fence you'll need to build up the face with enough material so that you only expose as much of the bit as you need to. Like Dan said about passing material between the fence and the bit- DON'T. Larger routers don't have to work as hard to get the same job done but 2 1/2 hp routers are large enough. You just have to feed a little slower and maybe takes off successive small bites to get to the finished profile.
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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-20-2017, 03:01 PM
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Welcome aboard.

The Bosch 1617 and the DeWalt router motors are 3 1/2 inches in diameter. Check your lift before making a purchase. The Triton 3 1/4hp will mount directly to an insert plate...no lift needed because it has a built in mechanism and comes with a hand crank to raise and lower it. Change your bits from above the table with one wrench because the shaft locks in place when raised all the way up.

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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-20-2017, 08:16 PM
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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-20-2017, 08:30 PM
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Welcome mtsaz. I'm also in the mts of AZ. I'm in Snowflake. Where is your shop. If we're close, I might be able to assist.
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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-20-2017, 08:40 PM
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I don't believe the Rockler lift will work with 3-1/4 hp motors. If you didn't get a manual you can go to their web site and download it.


In woodworking there is always more then one way to accomplish something.
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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-20-2017, 08:51 PM
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welcome n/a..
made in Canada JessEm makes several outstanding top of the line lifts and you will have a large selection of motors to choose from...
their CS/TS is better than outstanding...

Router Lifts and Plates...
HOME....

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If only new layers hadn't been added....

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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-21-2017, 12:40 AM
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Put me in the separate table crowd. I had a Rockler lift and it worked OK for a 2.25hp Bosch 1617. I don't see how you'll get a 3hp unit in it. I switched to the Triton TR001 for the table and prefer it to the Bosch in the table. Less costly by far than a separate lift then router. I like the Bosch 1617 really well for hand held and template use. Hope that's useful.
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