Problem keeping plate level - Router Forums
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-02-2017, 02:26 AM Thread Starter
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Question Problem keeping plate level

Hi,
I am new to the forum not sure if I can ask my question here.

MY SETUP: I have the Incra TS-LS Combo 2, the Router Table is on the right side of th Jet Pro Table Saw.
The Incra Mast-R-Lift II Router Lift, is fitted to the Incra Router Table. The Router is AUK WM1800 MkII - 1800 watt fixed.

The Mast lift plate is leveled with 10 Grub Screws, I have no problems with leveling the plate I always check
the plate before using the router, I have been making raised panels on 12mm MDF with the CTM Raised panel set.
However after routing only 3 or 4 sides of the panel, the plate becomes uneven by 2mm to 3mm also on
the last 2 occasions 2 Grub Screws actually worked their way to the bottom of the plate and dislodged.
I have done very little work with this router setup may 5 to 10 hours.
Appreciate any help.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-02-2017, 10:02 AM
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Hi and welcome GW. I moved your question into it's own thread. It sounds like vibration from the router is causing the set screws to turn on their own. Using something to retard their movement might solne your problem but you don't want to use a threadlocker so that they can't be adjusted later. I've found that Goop or Shoe Goo work fairly well for that. They are rubbery and sticky enough to prevent movement but will still break loose easily for disassembly or adjustment later if needed. They also don't dry so fast that you wouldn't be able to get all the screws adjusted before it was set.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-02-2017, 12:15 PM
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Loctite blue thread locker is good for that. it dries and holds the screw nicely, but if you do need to move the screw again, it can be done with medium force as it stays in the thread as a dried glue. DONT USE RED! thats forever.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-02-2017, 09:38 PM Thread Starter
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When I first installed the router to the Mast R Lift, the router was fitted, as high as you could mount it, however the problem was when using the CMT large flat panel bit, and the router bit could not be lowered enough to router the panel. Therefore, I lowered the router a couple of inches and this allowed the bit to be lowered sufficiently to rout the panel. Would the lowering of the router cause the perceived vibration? If so what could be a solution.
There were no problems with the way the panels were cut the cuts were aligned perfectly.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-02-2017, 10:21 PM
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GW, I use and recommend Vibratite VC3. I have the old labels on my bottles before they renamed the product. You brush it on and let it set for a couple minutes. Then you install and adjust your screws; the product "locks" in 24 hours. The unique thing about this product is you can easily adjust the screws and it will re-lock again. It is not cheap: around $20 for a small bottle but it will last you many years.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-02-2017, 11:04 PM
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In an ideal world, there would never be vibration on a router. But if there was a little to start with, a large router bit would make it worse because of its weight. If ou set it too far out of the router that would make it even worse.
There should be a mark on the bit shaft showing the depth to seat it.
Then of course, you might have just not done the bolts up tight enough in the first place.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-03-2017, 12:20 AM Thread Starter
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Than you all for your help, I found some shoo glue so I will give it a try, also try to adjust the router a little more exact in the depth.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-03-2017, 10:16 AM
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After re reading your first post I think I understand your problem better. The throat of many routers is not wide enough to lower large bits through. When I was using my Hitachi M12V in my table I had to install the bit above the throat opening which made it to high to rout the proper profile which is what it sounds like you had problems with. My solution, and I believe I remember MT Stringer using it too, was to add a piece of sheet material, like 1/4" masonite e.g., on top of my table to effectively raise the surface in relation to the bit. Depending on how your table is made you may be able to do the same.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-03-2017, 11:25 AM
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I also suggest adding a 1/4" piece of Masonite to raise the base as well. I also suggest you drop a half inch rubber grommet into the collet, which might also suppress the vibration a bit. If none of these solutions really work, you might have something causing the imbalance that should be looked at.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-04-2017, 09:14 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks will will try
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