Now, how I cut my tnons with a router. - Router Forums
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-26-2009, 07:01 AM Thread Starter
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Default Now, how I cut my tnons with a router.

Here is a description and a few pics to describe my tenoning method.
Derek.
Cutting tenons on the router table without a jig,

• Pictures 1 and 2 show tenon being marked out, in this instance, the timber is 27mm. and the tenon is to be 9mm.
• Pictures 3 and 4 show the band saw fence being set to the shoulder of the tenon, cutting the face to stop breakout, not necessarily to the depth needed.
• Picture 5 shows the fence being set to almost the depth of cut needed to make the tenon
• And picture 6 shows the tenon being cut.
• Picture 7 shows a 25 mm straight cutter fitted to the router and a false continuous fence fitted.
• Picture 8 shows the tenon being cut to its final size, by, “creeping up to the timber very slowly with the cutter until the correct size has been obtained”, this is done with the fine height adjuster.
Picture 9 shows the final cut, and picture 10 shows the finished tenon.
Cut this way the tenon will always be dead central with no over cutting and no breakout.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-26-2009, 10:47 AM
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Nice job derek

here's just one more quick way to get the job done

http://www.routerforums.com/project-...th-worlds.html

see below

====

Quote:
Originally Posted by derek willis View Post
Here is a description and a few pics to describe my tenoning method.
Derek.
Cutting tenons on the router table without a jig,

• Pictures 1 and 2 show tenon being marked out, in this instance, the timber is 27mm. and the tenon is to be 9mm.
• Pictures 3 and 4 show the band saw fence being set to the shoulder of the tenon, cutting the face to stop breakout, not necessarily to the depth needed.
• Picture 5 shows the fence being set to almost the depth of cut needed to make the tenon
• And picture 6 shows the tenon being cut.
• Picture 7 shows a 25 mm straight cutter fitted to the router and a false continuous fence fitted.
• Picture 8 shows the tenon being cut to its final size, by, “creeping up to the timber very slowly with the cutter until the correct size has been obtained”, this is done with the fine height adjuster.
Picture 9 shows the final cut, and picture 10 shows the finished tenon.
Cut this way the tenon will always be dead central with no over cutting and no breakout.


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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-26-2009, 11:03 AM Thread Starter
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Bob J. Rather more sophisticated than my very simple way, I think, but, those with only a standard router table can choose, can't they.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-26-2009, 11:40 AM
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HI derek willis

" can choose " You bet

They can also buy one router bit from CMT that can do it in one pass by the bit

========

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Originally Posted by derek willis View Post
Bob J. Rather more sophisticated than my very simple way, I think, but, those with only a standard router table can choose, can't they.
Derek.



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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-26-2009, 12:00 PM Thread Starter
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My tenons would be cut in one pass once the height has been set by the creeping-up method.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-26-2009, 02:34 PM
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HI derek

Here's the bit I'm taking about
One pass and it's done ,then quick pass by the bit to remove the small part of the teton


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...&redirect=true

====
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My tenons would be cut in one pass once the height has been set by the creeping-up method.
Derek.


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Last edited by bobj3; 01-26-2009 at 03:16 PM.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-27-2009, 03:50 AM Thread Starter
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Bob, nice bit, but not everyone uses a horizontal router because of it's limitaions in use, and you obviously cannot cut 4" and 6" tenons with it.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-27-2009, 09:16 AM
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derek - for those of us that have to use the simple method - I like your set up. I use my table saw and a
couple of home made jigs. Guess I never gave the band saw a thought - will have to try that. I always do
the mortising first and then make the tenons to fit - that way I can cheat a little. Bobj3 always has great ideas and has some great tools to work with -wish I had just a little of his knowledge - but I am so limited on funds that I have to find ways to do things with the tools I have on hand. Heck the computer I am using is almost 12 years old - its a wonder I can make a connection to this web site at all.

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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-27-2009, 09:39 AM Thread Starter
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Larry, you and me both, yes, make mortices first, then the tenons always fit.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-27-2009, 10:26 AM
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Hi derek

You're right and nor would I want to to,,,it's no big deal to make one 4" to 6" long but the hard part is to make a pocket that deep to put it ..

I think they call that type of joint a bride joint..

But I should say I can put in a pocket hole 4" deep (3 /8" or 1/2" wide) how about you...but I don't know why I would do that LOL LOL hahaha..

======

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Originally Posted by derek willis View Post
Bob, nice bit, but not everyone uses a horizontal router because of it's limitaions in use, and you obviously cannot cut 4" and 6" tenons with it.
Derek.



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http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT-n...RWaEpMA/videos

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