homemade router table/mounting to top - Router Forums
 5Likes
  • 4 Post By Mike
  • 1 Post By Cherryville Chuck
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-07-2017, 07:12 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
First Name: N/a
Posts: 5
 
Default homemade router table/mounting to top

Hi all,
Im planning on making my own simple router table with just a plywood top. I have a Bosch 1617 router set and wondering what thickness I can make the top so the screws will still fit? The screws dont seem all that long and I'm worried I cant do more than 1/4" plywood... with that I'm not to sure of the ability of the ply to hold much weight.. ie the router itself.

Or can I just get longer screws from the home centers? Dont want to ruin any threads on the router
rhaugle is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-07-2017, 08:20 PM
Retired Moderator
 
Mike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Country: United States
First Name: Mike
Posts: 11,921
 
Send a message via Skype™ to Mike
Default

You are far better off using the $13 Grizzly mounting plate and 3/4" Baltic birch plywood. This combination will be trouble free for years. Once you remove the sub base plate on your 1617 you will see two mounting patterns. The smaller 4 screw pattern is the Bosch standard with 4 mm screws. The three round mounting bosses are the PC style mount. I posted Sticky threads on how to install the plate and how to mount your router correctly.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	jig%20015.jpg
Views:	166
Size:	60.2 KB
ID:	297529  

Click image for larger version

Name:	Plate mount 003.JPG
Views:	193
Size:	98.1 KB
ID:	297537  


Mike
"Living in the D" (this means Detroit!)
"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions"
Mike is offline  
post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-07-2017, 08:21 PM
Registered User
 
JOAT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Country: United States
First Name: Theo
Posts: 6,002
 
Default

There is a thread on here about homemade router tables. I suggest you check that out before you start.

My table has a 1/2" plywood top, and my router is screwed to a 1/2" plywood plate - bought screws. But I also have a spider web of chunks of 2X4 under the top, so it is flat, and stays flat. The router plate rests on parts of the 2X4 chunks for support. Without proper support under the top, it will pretty much be guaranteed to bend - unless you glue several layers of top material together, and I think that would be more bother than it's worth.

"It ain't what you're told, it's what you know." - Granny Weatherwax
Some days, the supply of available curse words is insufficient to meet my demands.
Call me a craftsman, artisan, or artistic, and I will accept that. Call me an artist and you will likely get a quite rude comment in return. I am not a @#$%ing artist.
JOAT is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-07-2017, 10:48 PM
Forum Contributor
 
Stick486's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Country: United States
First Name: Stick
Posts: 24,580
 
Default

some serious reading...
follow the sublinks....

http://www.routerforums.com/table-mo...p-routing.html

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
Stick486 is online now  
post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-08-2017, 02:15 AM
Moderation Team
 
Cherryville Chuck's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Country: Canada
First Name: Charles
Posts: 14,861
 
Default

If you get longer screws remember that you must match both diameter and thread pitch. In metric sizes thread pitch is measured as the distance in millimeters between two ridges. If the screws are 4mm then they are probably 0.7mm but there is also a fine thread 4mm which is 0.5 mm per thread.
Danman1957 likes this.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
Cherryville Chuck is offline  
post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-08-2017, 07:34 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Country: United States
First Name: Art
Posts: 1,426
 
Default

You will want to be able to match the hole in the top up to the bit that you are using otherwise you will problem. You don't want to put a 3/4" hole in the top only to find that a bit doesn't fit and you have to make the hole larger. As Mike suggested get a plate and make your top thick enough that it won't sag. If you can find a used office furniture place near you ask if they have any old modular work tops they want to get rid of. A 4' desk top makes a perfect table top.
mgmine is offline  
post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-09-2017, 10:50 AM
Registered User
 
CharleyL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Country: United States
First Name: Charley
Posts: 1,983
 
Default

My first router table was just a 2 ft square piece of 3/4 birch plywood with a 2" hole a little off center for the router bit, plus the mounting holes around it to attach a 1 hp fixed base router underneath. For a fence, I had a 2 X 4 that was a little longer than the router table, with the face edge jointed flat and a notch in the middle of it to go around the router bit. Two C clamps held this fence in place and two more C clamps held the table to the edge of my work bench or saw horse. It was portable, very flexible, and was easy to use for most routing chores, but now that I have two REAL router tables, I don't ever want to go back. It was a great and very cheap way to get started, and very easy to make, but the features of a full size router table and fence make them so much easier to use.

If money is tight, go with something like my first DIY router table. If you can afford better, go with one of the many better router tables on the market. Inserts will let you adjust the bit opening to the ideal size, A thin, but strong plate will give you more bit depth adjustment, vacuum attachments will keep your shop and lungs cleaner, micro adjustment of the fence will get you more accuracy, etc. All this makes it easier to get good results. Much can be done with a DIY table like I had, but accuracy will be significantly limited.

Charley

Central North Carolina
CharleyL is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Router Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Getting Started With A Woodworking Router. learnexperience Table-mounted Routing 9 10-22-2014 06:43 PM
Newbie in using a Router..... Andron General Routing 6 03-20-2013 02:20 PM
homemade router table top Woodworker Shack Table-mounted Routing 14 06-04-2012 12:02 AM
Table mounted top adjusted router David Kilpatrick 1 Table-mounted Routing 4 07-01-2011 05:10 PM
Grumble - How to remove snapped screw from router table top? xvimbi Table-mounted Routing 14 02-21-2010 05:04 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome