Under table Triton TRA001 adjustments - Router Forums
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post #1 of 35 (permalink) Old 09-16-2017, 09:21 PM Thread Starter
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Default Under table Triton TRA001 adjustments

I had a Kreg insert which had the hole for winding on the left. That arrangement made it easy to get to the height locking lever and the quick height adjuster wheel but the on/off switch was a little awkward.

I have now upgraded to a Woodpecker plate and fence (brilliant BTW) and the whole situation is reversed. The winding hole is on the right making the accessing the switch easier but the height lock lever more awkward but it is manageable.

So my questions .....

1) Leave the lock lever alone and trust the router to keep its height
2) Flip the plate so it faces the back (Woodpecker logo facing the fence) then the lock lever would be more accessible at the front
3) Any Woodpecker & Triton owners who have done that or have you left it as in the Picture. Do you just accept under table adjustments on the Triton are awkward but OK

I guess the switch is the most important as this has to be off to mount bits.
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post #2 of 35 (permalink) Old 09-16-2017, 09:59 PM
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Run your router cord to the outside of your table and plug it into an on and off switch. Then just leave the router switch on all the time. Don't forget to unplug the router cord from the switch when changing bits. This is what I do.
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post #3 of 35 (permalink) Old 09-16-2017, 10:13 PM Thread Starter
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Don, the Triton switch has to be off to change bits. Annoying but it is a good built in safety device. I also run a cord to an outside NVR switch. So I'm sure you don't have a recent Triton router.

Last edited by barri; 09-16-2017 at 10:18 PM.
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post #4 of 35 (permalink) Old 09-16-2017, 10:29 PM
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Don, the Triton switch has to be off to change bits. Annoying but it is a good built in safety device. I also run a cord to an outside NVR switch. So I'm sure you don't have a recent Triton router.
No John I have a Porter Cable 895. My PC has a button that goes into the spindle and locks it so you can change bits with one wrench and The switch has to be off to work it. My router will come up far enough so I use two wrenches to change bits. You could also buy a Muscle Chuck for your router. You could also defeat the switch. I would never trust a switch. I would unplug the router every time. You have to unplug everything else so you need to stay in the habit of unplugging your tools.

Don in Murfreesboro,Tn.

Measure once cut twice and it's still to short.
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post #5 of 35 (permalink) Old 09-16-2017, 10:33 PM Thread Starter
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I just realised (and feel stupid) that when I do edge profiling the winding hole is covered by the fence then I have to adjust height under the table so maybe the Woodpecker insert is in the wrong way and should be flipped. It just seems strange to have the logo facing the wrong way.

I'd still love to hear from anyone who has the same combination.

Last edited by barri; 09-17-2017 at 12:43 AM.
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post #6 of 35 (permalink) Old 09-17-2017, 01:18 AM
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You'll want to lock the height in. I have the Woodpecker plate with the Triton TRA001 and had to drill my own height adjustment hole, so I was able to arrange it so the switch and lock are easily accessable. I do have a Rockler metal dust collection cabinet, which is a tight fit. I'm thinking about removing it and putting in a larger door for easier access to the chamber where the router lives. The best thing about the Woodpecker plate is the twist lock insert, and the extra thickness to support the weight without sagging. I got converted by watching Marc Sommerfeld videos since he has that plate as well as a Triton in the table.
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post #7 of 35 (permalink) Old 09-17-2017, 02:14 AM Thread Starter
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Tom, I just flipped the plate so that instead of the pre-drilled winder hole being at 2 o clock it is now at 8 o clock. The quick adjust wheel and the lock lever are now are lot more accessible and the switch while not in a perfect spot is still acceptable. This is the way it should be.

While I don't care where the woodpecker logo is, it is now buried under the fence when doing edge work. It's their fault that their logo or winder hole are in the wrong place and out of sight. I saw on a festool forum the pre drilled hole is at 5 o clock and the logo is still buried under the fence. So maybe all Triton holes on woodpecker plates are not the same.

Apart from all this I agree with you Tom. The plate is top quality and their superfence is wonderful. Very happy I upgraded

Last edited by barri; 09-17-2017 at 02:23 AM.
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post #8 of 35 (permalink) Old 09-17-2017, 06:31 AM
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I have the Woodpecker plate, for the Triton TRA001, in an Incra table frame. I built the dust box under the router, but I put a door each side, so I can access the switch and speed control on the left, and lock on the right. Works a treat.
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post #9 of 35 (permalink) Old 09-17-2017, 06:48 AM Thread Starter
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Greg, is your woodpecker logo facing towards you or away? Also is your winding hole at 8 o clock?
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post #10 of 35 (permalink) Old 09-17-2017, 07:10 AM
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You'll want to lock the height in. I have the Woodpecker plate with the Triton TRA001 and had to drill my own height adjustment hole, so I was able to arrange it so the switch and lock are easily accessable. I do have a Rockler metal dust collection cabinet, which is a tight fit. I'm thinking about removing it and putting in a larger door for easier access to the chamber where the router lives. The best thing about the Woodpecker plate is the twist lock insert, and the extra thickness to support the weight without sagging. I got converted by watching Marc Sommerfeld videos since he has that plate as well as a Triton in the table.
@DesertRatTom

Good information, and just at the right time. I have a P-C 690 in a Bench Dog lift in my Rockler table which has worked very well, also with the Rockler sheet metal box. I'm considering trying the Sommerfeld tongue and groove system for building cabinets (at least for attaching the face frames, I think the grooves for the corner block is overkill, and I like my methoug of installing the backs) and a little worried that the P-C may be a little underpowered for that type of service. I haven't had any problems with the present set-up, but I'm not a heavy duty user of the router table as I cut rabbets and so forth either with a hand held router (the Betterly base does a great job of dust collection, thanks to Mike in Detroit for the recommendation) or with a dado set in the TS, depending on part size. The Rockler insert for the Triton takes the same hole as the Bench Dog and the Triton is supposed to fit in the metal box - do you consider the "fit" of the Triton in the sheet metal box to be a problem?

I like the Bench Dog lift, nice and solid, has been trouble free. The cast iron top is rigid, and came with (or maybe I bought extra) an insert that accepts P-C bushings - I don't use the guide bushings but rather the set with different holes in the center so I can close the hole up around the bit to minimize the clearance. The Bench Dog has a height lock - just a little thumb knob on the height adjustment hat positively locks the height and must be loosened and then tightened after making height adjustments, but it's readily available through the open door. I'd like to keep using the set-up I have, don't want to find out though that I need the heavier router by burning up this one.

That's the height adjustment at the bottom of the photo - it came with a little dial that fits around the socket that can be zeroed each time and used to give a pretty good indication of how much the bit is raised or lowered - one complete revolution raises/lowers the spindle by 1/8"
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