If you're going to rout a dado for a T-track, be sure your table is nice and thick. A double layer of MDF or MDF + plywood backing is OK, but a single layer of mdf will be greatly weakened by cutting a 7/16ths or slightly deeper dado in a single layer.
Consider cutting two vertical dados, one near each edge of the table. Use T bolts and threaded knobs to slide and lock down the fence. Cut a slot in the left hand side, bottom of the fence so you can slide the T-bolt and fence into any position you want. The other end can just be a hole drilled to fit nicely and is the fulcrum for the lever the fence has become. That is the end that stays put, the other end slides up and down to position the fence relative to the bit. The fence doesn't have to be parallel with the front of the table (except if you're using a jig of some sort).
The 7/16ths depth will drop the T-track clear of your workpiece. This setup will give you a pretty nice control of your table without over doing the fiddling with clamps and too many knobs. There are all kinds of designs for fences, and most of the decent ones have a dust port just behind the bit opening. Put a little dust relief camfer on the bottom edge of the fence. Sawdust buildup can mess up your bit setting and cut by raising the workpiece a little as it rides over the sawdust.
This is a worthy project and I predict you'll really like the change. If you get a chance watch a little of Marc Sommerfeld's routing videos, his fince is set up this way so he's doing what you'll be doing with this kind of setup.
The more I do, the less I accomplish.
Last edited by DesertRatTom; 11-02-2017 at 11:35 PM.