Cutting for Router Plate. - Router Forums
 13Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-10-2017, 09:03 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Badger2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Country: United Kingdom
First Name: Malcolm
Posts: 56
 
Default Cutting for Router Plate.

Please bear with me as I'm only just starting this area or woodwork.

I am about to cut a table top for a Kreg plate, but as the table thickness is only 7/8" with Formiica surface, can I just rout out the space with a temporary template stuck on with double sided tape ( 4 sections of narrow timber, not one template cut out - as photo).

Do I need to take special care with the Formica top, splintering etc and assuming the timber stuck on template was 1/4" thick, what router bit would be best to cut that pattern out.
many thanks.
Malcolm
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_4451.jpg
Views:	208
Size:	690.5 KB
ID:	308986  

Badger2 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-10-2017, 09:15 AM
Registered User
 
sunnybob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Country: Cyprus
First Name: Bob
Posts: 1,796
 
Default

The top is not thick enough. You wont be able to put any T track in it and it will most likely flex or break under a big load.
Double it up and then follow the very good detailed instructions that come with the kreg plate.

Hah! just recognised the signature, hello Malcolm.
Badger2 likes this.
sunnybob is online now  
post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-10-2017, 09:20 AM
Registered User
 
vchiarelli's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Country: Canada
First Name: Vince
Posts: 3,456
 
Default

@Badger2

I just made a router table top using the Kreg insert. In my case, I used the Kreg levellers, but if I recall from the instructions, the table top needs to be a minimum of 1". Here's a link to a post I put up a few days ago:

http://www.routerforums.com/table-mo...ml#post1713906

Anyway, you've got a couple of choices, depending on whether you are going to cut out the entire insert or leave a lip around the edge for the plate to sit on.

That Kreg insert has a 3/4" radius, so here's how I did mine:

After setting the templates in place, I used a 1 1/2" forstner bit to drill out the corners - the 1 1/2" bit gives you a 3/4" radius. After drilling out the corners, I used a jig saw to cut between the holes, staying shy of the template, which removed the bulk of the material. I then used a pattern bit, following along the template, to flush trim the remainder of the hole. A pattern bit has the bearing at the shank end of the bit, and the bearing rides along the template. The Kreg levellers are screwed into the table top, from the bottom of course and have screws that screw in and out, which the insert sits on, allowing you to level the insert.

Kreg Precision Insert Plate - Lee Valley Tools

Option #2 is to leave a lip around the edge so that the insert sits on the lip:

In that case, you would jig saw out the bulk of the material, leaving about 1/2" shy of the template, then use a mortising bit (also called a mortising dado bit. You would still ride the bearing along the template, but the mortising bit would be set to the depth you want, leaving a lip around the edge.

I just noticed Bob's post and I agree with him regarding the table top. I used two 3/4" tops, screwed together for a 1 1/2" thick top.
jj777746 likes this.

Some folks call me Vince - other folks call me...........
vchiarelli is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-10-2017, 09:50 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Badger2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Country: United Kingdom
First Name: Malcolm
Posts: 56
 
Default

Thanks Bob & Vince, I'm glad I asked first because I originally had the table top at 5/8" and stuck a 1/4" ply below. Now I will add some more thickness before I proceed. Then I will be routing out to leave a lip for the plate levelers to sit on and 'tune the leveling.

I was hoping for the easy life, but it never seems to come along. I had the Kreg plate and levelers delivered today, with the Triton TRA001 Router that I can change bits completly above the table ( that will be the easy life later on) Anyway, looking forward to an interesting challenge with routing. At least the table arrangement will be easy as it slides under the workbench when not needed.

Malcolm

Last edited by Badger2; 11-10-2017 at 09:53 AM.
Badger2 is offline  
post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-10-2017, 10:02 AM
Moderation Team
 
Cherryville Chuck's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Country: Canada
First Name: Charles
Posts: 14,869
 
Default

Malcolm I made a table a few years ago out of nothing more than 5/8" melamine and I put t tracks in it and it held up beautifully for several years. I gave it to a son in law and he used it a bit but he didn't have room to take it on a move so it got dismantled and the parts salvaged. It was still dead flat at the time it got dismantled. The reason it worked so well with thin material is that it was installed over a solid framework and there were cross members either under the dadoes for the t track or very close to under it. The engineering is far more important than the material and no panel material is meant to cross a span without support.
Badger2 likes this.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
Cherryville Chuck is offline  
post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-10-2017, 10:07 AM
Registered User
 
sunnybob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Country: Cyprus
First Name: Bob
Posts: 1,796
 
Default

When you have the levellers, DO NOT leave a lip. The lip is to rest the plate on if there are no levellers. With the levellers fitted correctly, the plate is screwed to them, and 8 grub screws are for squaring the plate to the table in all directions. Thats not as easy or quick as it sounds, by the way.
Badger2 likes this.
sunnybob is online now  
post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-10-2017, 10:10 AM
Registered User
 
vchiarelli's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Country: Canada
First Name: Vince
Posts: 3,456
 
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Badger2 View Post
Thanks Bob & Vince, I'm glad I asked first because I originally had the table top at 5/8" and stuck a 1/4" ply below. Now I will add some more thickness before I proceed. Then I will be routing out to leave a lip for the plate levelers to sit on and 'tune the leveling.

I was hoping for the easy life, but it never seems to come along. I had the Kreg plate and levelers delivered today, with the Triton TRA001 Router that I can change bits completly above the table ( that will be the easy life later on) Anyway, looking forward to an interesting challenge with routing. At least the table arrangement will be easy as it slides under the workbench when not needed.

Malcolm
Malcom - if you are using the levelers, you don't need to leave a lip around the edge. The levelers are attached to the underside of the top, and sit into the rounded corners. The insert plate then sits on the levelers. Check out the instructions that came with the insert plate and pay specific attention to installing it using levelers.

Some folks call me Vince - other folks call me...........
vchiarelli is offline  
post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-10-2017, 10:37 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Badger2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Country: United Kingdom
First Name: Malcolm
Posts: 56
 
Default

Thanks again Bob. I had the feeling that the levelers were used at the edge of a cleaned out hole rather than with a lip, but it's not that clear in the instructions.

I have read Cherryville Chuck's note, but think if I add just another 1/4" it will surfice, As a kitchen table it was very sturdy (circa 1970) but some of the structure underneath has been removed to allow for it to slide in and out under the worktop. It will still allow FURTHER 7" FOR fence, but I will use a temporary home made job initially until I have decided if a dust box below is necessary or simply suck it up from the fence area. I ratrher like the idea of an additiona vac from another dust collection hole after the bit location, so may also add that.

Finally, thinking about the Formica top and splintering? wouldn't like that to happen on a nice clean edge. Best ideas?
Malcolm
Badger2 is offline  
post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-10-2017, 10:39 AM
Forum Contributor
 
DesertRatTom's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Country: United States
First Name: Tom
Posts: 15,630
 
Default

The TRA001 is a pleasure to use, even if you do have to reach under and lock it. But it is heavy and I think you're a little shy on thickness. But you can add trusses underneath the table top for a little extra strength and flatness. I'd definitely cut with a jig saw first, but about half an inch inside the dimensions of the plate so you wind up with a half inch rabbet all round. The plate will fit into that with levelers at the dorners to flatten it. So the rabbet needs to be slightly deeper than the plate is thick.

I also suggest that if you are butting those boards up against the plate for position, consider adding playing cards around the perimiter of the plate so you have the opening just slightly proud of the plate, otherwise you may have some serious problems getting the plate in and out later. I didn't and had to go back to increase the opening slightly. Finally, since you're only going to be routing out something less than half an inch, you could use one inch or a 3/4 inch, top bearing bit. Drilling holes in the 4 corners the same radius as the corners of the plate as recommended is a good thing to do first. The through cut will give you a place to put the leveling screws.

Double sided tape is OK for the short sides, but the top bar should be taped AND clamped in place first to make sure you get the sides lined up accurately. Since the side styles are already cut to length, put the cards at the ends of the short styles for that wiggle room.

Nice project. Is it going on a stand or are you planning for a cabinet?

The more I do, the less I accomplish.
DesertRatTom is offline  
post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-10-2017, 10:46 AM
Forum Contributor
 
DesertRatTom's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Country: United States
First Name: Tom
Posts: 15,630
 
Default

My table had leveling screws already installed, and there are two placed in the center of the long dimension. Placing the levelers in the corners may be enough, but I'm inclined to leave the lip as well, and even adding a leveling screw there. The Triton is a heavy tool and I'm a belt AND suspenders kind of guy. Of course, you can always add a center leveler later if you want one. I have a Woodpecker plate, which is nearly 1/8 thicker than the plate it replaced, but I still set the center leveling screw in addition to the corners. Murphy was an optimist.
Badger2 and jj777746 like this.

The more I do, the less I accomplish.
DesertRatTom is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Router Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Kreg insert plate - dissapointing Rumnut Table-mounted Routing 4 01-19-2014 04:11 PM
MLCS/Harbor freight router plate inserts not flush with plate Mike Gager Table-mounted Routing 14 12-22-2009 09:54 PM
Marvel 40 Router Plate cbsjoez1935 General Routing 2 04-06-2009 05:23 PM
Insert Plate size and 11.5" handle spread; how to prevent problems Ladd Table-mounted Routing 34 12-14-2007 01:08 PM
cutting a phenolic plate rjb2 Jigs and Fixtures 14 02-24-2007 06:50 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome