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post #1 of 129 (permalink) Old 02-15-2009, 09:30 PM Thread Starter
 
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Cool Power switch for router table?

Okay fellas, need your thoughts. Am building a router table. Base etc is done and top is on....no doors or drawers yet. I have seen videos etc. of guys that appear to be using ONE switch to turn on router AND small vacuum at same time. I talked with two guys at local big box places and they say "oh sure, nothing to it. Just take this switch and wire router and vacuum into it. Just cut the plugs off router and vacuum and wire them to this switch."
Well, I bought one of the switches...but upon reflection I deemed it sorta goofy to cut the plug off my router and my vacuum. Switch went into Reject drawer (with a bunch of other stuff) and I am back to square one.
This CAN'T be that hard to do. It's not a big deal if I can't do things that way-just thought it would be nice. Just making this base etc. is a MAJOR challenge to somebody like me.
As you boys know, I'm not a real woodworker.
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post #2 of 129 (permalink) Old 02-15-2009, 09:36 PM
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i know i will get a lot of no no's but i have a light switch and outlet in an electrical outlet box. the outlet is controlled by the switch and i plug the router and vac into it. one switch turns both on.

light travels faster than sound, this is why some people seem bright til you hear them speak.

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post #3 of 129 (permalink) Old 02-15-2009, 10:02 PM
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Exclamation IMHO: Never cut off the plug!

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Originally Posted by Birch View Post
Okay fellas, need your thoughts. Am building a router table. Base etc is done and top is on....no doors or drawers yet. I have seen videos etc. of guys that appear to be using ONE switch to turn on router AND small vacuum at same time. I talked with two guys at local big box places and they say "oh sure, nothing to it. Just take this switch and wire router and vacuum into it. Just cut the plugs off router and vacuum and wire them to this switch."
Well, I bought one of the switches...but upon reflection I deemed it sorta goofy to cut the plug off my router and my vacuum. Switch went into Reject drawer (with a bunch of other stuff) and I am back to square one.
This CAN'T be that hard to do. It's not a big deal if I can't do things that way-just thought it would be nice. Just making this base etc. is a MAJOR challenge to somebody like me.
As you boys know, I'm not a real woodworker.
IMHO: Never cut off the plug!

Get a 4" sq deep junction box (1/2" knockouts) with a cover that would accommodate a switch and an outlet.
Buy a single 1/2" romex connector.
Also buy a 20 amp rated switch and an outlet.
If you don't have a sacrificial extension cord around, also buy at least 6-8 feet of 12/2 w-g line cord and a plug for it.

I'll diagram it up after I take my dogs for their nightly walk and add it to this post.
Diagram Follows:


I will give a pictorial as time permits in a later response to this post.
Decided not to because later post showed a reasonable device that would fulfill requirements,)

But food for thought, look at the one I put on my home-brew router/table-saw extension here.

One important point! Make darn sure you locate it where you can REMOVE or UNPLUG the router when you do bit changes!

Cordially,
Gerry
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post #4 of 129 (permalink) Old 02-15-2009, 10:14 PM
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hello Gerry,

that sounds very familiar, lol just teasing. it does work very well though and with my new craftsman pro with the soft start and my shopvac it sounds neat when you turn it on. it has a neat sound coming up to speed.

light travels faster than sound, this is why some people seem bright til you hear them speak.

Please Please Please edit your profile with a name and location so we can better assist you and make for a friendlier forum

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post #5 of 129 (permalink) Old 02-15-2009, 10:39 PM
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Hi Fatz,

I totally agree with the other responses. Never cut off the ends unless they are defective.

I'd also like to reiterate what Gerry said. Buy the 4" gang box and most important buy a 20 amp switch and receptacle. The 15 amp are probably under a dollar the 20 amp is probably $3.00+. But when loading up more than one tool at a time you need the 20 amp. Buying a short length of 12/2 with ground, extension cord to use as your main feed to the 4" box is a must as well. You will also need to buy a male 3 prong plug to wire on the end of the cord. Cut off 2 pieces of 12" off of the extension cord to use as internal box wiring.

Wiring the whole thing up is quite easy. The black of the new 20 12/2 extension cord will attach to one of the screws of the switch.

Take the the 3 wires out of the 12/2 12" extension cord that you cut off earlier. Use the black wire and connect one end to the other screw of the switch and the other end to the copper colored screw of the recepticle. The white wire of the main feed cord is attached to the silver screw of the recepticle. The green wire (ground) is a little more complicated as it needs to ground the 4" box (if it is metal) and the switch and the recepticle.

You will need a wire nut, a little cone shape connector that will attach several cords together. It will need to be either a red one or a grey one. The coloring denotes how many wires it can connect together.

Let's assume the worse case scenerio and that you have a metal box. You will need to attach, with the connector, the green wire from the main feed to 3 other short pieces of (preferably) green wires. Once these are connected together, you will then attach one of those to the grounding screw in the box and the grounding screws of the switch and recepticle.

Earlier I mentioned to cut of 2 - 12" pieces from your 12/2 main feed cord. That will give you 2 greens to use and if you have a plastic box but are missing one if you have a metal box.

An electrical inspector would have a fit if you used one of the extra white or black ones. They will function as good as a green one - it's just not up to color code.

Hope this helps
Bruce
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post #6 of 129 (permalink) Old 02-15-2009, 10:55 PM
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I have 2 outlets, one in the cabinet and one outside at the rear for the vac and or any other item I might want to use.
Power comes in from back to the switch at the front (regular light switch) from the switch to the router outlet then back to the rear outlet.

Never bite the hand that looks dirty!
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post #7 of 129 (permalink) Old 02-16-2009, 12:20 AM
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Buy an emergency cutoff switch and plug your router into that before plugging the switch box cord into your power distribution. The last thing you want to do is be fumbling with a standard wall switch when power has to be cut now. They are very cheap insurance even at 10x the 20A switch. Set up, if you really want it, a quad outlet as noted above and plug the cutoff into it. Leave the cutoff switch on and switch power to both with the standard wall switch.
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post #8 of 129 (permalink) Old 02-16-2009, 01:03 AM
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Very good advice too!
Cordially,
Gerry
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post #9 of 129 (permalink) Old 02-16-2009, 07:28 AM Thread Starter
 
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Wo w! Thanks fellas, especially Gerard for going to the trouble of creating a diagram. All the advice is clear and valuable. I will proceed. Still want to get some additional stuff done to the base (cabinet) before I fix up switching. Bought the cheap little vacuum yesterday. Looked at the Fein but had to take TWO of the BIG pills when I saw the price! Yikes. Sure appreciate your guidance folks. I hope some day I can be of assistance to somebody else.
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post #10 of 129 (permalink) Old 02-16-2009, 08:29 AM
 
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Hey Birch just another option that doesn't require as much work. I had a switch go on one of my store bought router table and wanted to replace. I went to sears and they sell a "router table switch" w/2 plug ins for about $9. If you go this route you don't need to bother with the junction box, just plug the switch into an outlet and flip it on. Also, the one I bought was on clearance for $5 and had a removeable safety key to prevent accidental start up.

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