How many passes coping rails? - Router Forums
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-17-2009, 05:02 PM Thread Starter
 
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Default How many passes coping rails?

Hi guys,

I have been reading up on the coping sleds and I think I am just going to use my miter gauge with a backer block screwed to it.

When I did my test door with my shaker bits I cut them in three passes so I didn't take to big of a cut (for safety).

I was watching some some video clips of the the coping sleds and they were doing it in one pass.
Just wondering how many passes you guys take.

Thanks

Marcus
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-17-2009, 05:17 PM
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Hi Marcus

Just my 2 cents

The coping cut/pass should be done in one pass

You don't want to play with it... set it up right from the get go and it should come out just fine but do use a backer board to help stop the rip out.

=======

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Originally Posted by verteramofurniture View Post
Hi guys,

I have been reading up on the coping sleds and I think I am just going to use my miter gauge with a backer block screwed to it.

When I did my test door with my shaker bits I cut them in three passes so I didn't take to big of a cut (for safety).

I was watching some some video clips of the the coping sleds and they were doing it in one pass.
Just wondering how many passes you guys take.

Thanks

Marcus



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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-17-2009, 05:38 PM Thread Starter
 
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Bob thanks
I have been using my Porter-Cable 1 3/4 hp router set at 3. What speed would you say I should be running it at?

I have just been using my miter guage with the back block screwed to it and have been holding the piece to it with my fingers. I need to add a strip of sand paper to keep the rail from moving. Do you think my holding the rail would be enough to keep it from moving?
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-17-2009, 07:30 PM
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My PC is a 7518 so, I'm not sure speed settings are the same but, I cope at the 2nd from the highest speed.
You should have sandpaper on the backer block. Stop it before the cut, though. It'll dull your bit.
You can make a good sled with a piece of 1/4" hardboard and some scraps of 3/4 hardwood and two De Staco clamps. It's no biggie to build, it's dirt cheap and it works great.
If you are interested, I'll post a pic of my sled. It's not hardboard, but you'll get the idea.

Gene Howe
Snowflake, AZ

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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-17-2009, 07:44 PM
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HI verteramofurniture

I use number 2 on my PC most of the time,that's about 10,000 rpm the norm..
The bits I have are pushing right at 2" in diam..

The push block you have should work just fine,,,here's just a small tip,used a wider board (5" or so) do both ends then rip it to size after the mill work this will take care of any rip out plus the board much essayer to get by the big hole behind the bit, less chance of it dropping in the hole...in this case wider is better ,if you do this on all the parts you will it all done much quicker and safer...


======


Quote:
Originally Posted by verteramofurniture View Post
Bob thanks
I have been using my Porter-Cable 1 3/4 hp router set at 3. What speed would you say I should be running it at?

I have just been using my miter guage with the back block screwed to it and have been holding the piece to it with my fingers. I need to add a strip of sand paper to keep the rail from moving. Do you think my holding the rail would be enough to keep it from moving?



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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-19-2009, 11:10 PM Thread Starter
 
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I ran the router at 2.5 If i went any higher to 3 then it seemed to burn more. Lower it seemed like the router booged down. The cope didn't split but left some fuzz on the ends. When you do copes does the cuts come out perfectly clean or do you have to sand them clean a bit?
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-19-2009, 11:23 PM
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HI verteramofurniture

If you are getting fuzz, it maybe the stock is not dry...or the bit is dull..
pulling the wood filbers out and not cutting them off clean..
But It sounds like the bit needs to be replace because it's burning the stock.
You should not need to sand them the norm, some times just a little bit where it rips the stock out at the end of the pass, but it's not fuss type rip out...

The bit should go though the wood like a hot butter knife..and just as clean.

below you will see what it looks like when the wood is wet/not dry..but the bit is sharp..
see the burn marks and the fuzz from the cut...
====



Quote:
Originally Posted by verteramofurniture View Post
I ran the router at 2.5 If i went any higher to 3 then it seemed to burn more. Lower it seemed like the router booged down. The cope didn't split but left some fuzz on the ends. When you do copes does the cuts come out perfectly clean or do you have to sand them clean a bit?


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Last edited by bobj3; 02-19-2009 at 11:33 PM.
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-20-2009, 11:21 PM Thread Starter
 
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I've attached a photo of my set up and what it looks like after a single pass with the router set at 2.5. It only burns on the shoulders of the cuts. I am using a shaker bit set from MCLS. I have only done two test doors before this run of 4 door and 6 drawers. I did do a test with some mdf which thinking back was a dumb idea, do you think a couple passes with the mdf duller the bit that much?

Thanks

Marcus
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-20-2009, 11:41 PM
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Hi Marcus

Is that white Oak.?..it like to tare out unlike red Oak..
Also the stock looks to be just over 3/4", the bit may be just missing the edge just a little bit.
It always are to tell in a picture..

=======

Quote:
Originally Posted by verteramofurniture View Post
I've attached a photo of my set up and what it looks like after a single pass with the router set at 2.5. It only burns on the shoulders of the cuts. I am using a shaker bit set from MCLS. I have only done two test doors before this run of 4 door and 6 drawers. I did do a test with some mdf which thinking back was a dumb idea, do you think a couple passes with the mdf duller the bit that much?

Thanks

Marcus


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Last edited by bobj3; 02-20-2009 at 11:49 PM.
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-21-2009, 02:38 PM Thread Starter
 
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Its red oak stock. This stock is 3/4 on the dot. The doors I were making were actually under 3/4. If I hone the bit alittle do you think it will work better?
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