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post #1 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-18-2009, 11:32 PM Thread Starter
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Question Craftsman fence problem

I recently purchased a new Craftsman router table (320.28160). The side of the fence that can be adjusted for joining sticks out about 1/16". Does anyone know if this is a common problem with Craftsman's lower price tables? I have no room for a bigger size table and am on a tight budget. Before I exchange for another one, would appreciate any comments. Also, could that explain why the first piece of wood I tried to route took off like a bullet?



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post #2 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-20-2009, 08:27 PM
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Barry, sounds like your trying to joint with the wood in between the fence and the cutter. The cutter must be behind the fence with the outer edge of the cutter even with the adjustable (outfeed) side of the fence. Feed in a right to left direction, against the rotation of the cutter.

Chuck L.
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post #3 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-20-2009, 08:37 PM
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The fence is correct.

The outfeed side of the fence acts the same way that the outfeed table of a jointer works. It is supposed to be aligned with the bit, with the infeed side controlling how much stock you remove with each pass.

To set the fence, put a straightedge against the outfeed side. Adjust the fence so the straightedge touches the bit cutting edge. Lock the fence down.

To use the router table as a jointer, feed the stock from right to left, keeping pressure on the outfeed side of the fence. The same way you would use a jointer.

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post #4 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-20-2009, 09:15 PM
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Lightbulb I think Chuck is right, but,

I think Chuck is right, but.
There would be a natural design offset of about that amount if both the infeed and outfeed fences are pushed back to their limits.
The only other possibility is having the two washers on the outfeed side in the wrong place, they should be under the wing-nuts and not (possibly) elsewhere.

See attached diagram of the unit.

Cordially,
Gerry
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post #5 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-20-2009, 10:56 PM
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Exclamation Fence question

Gerry and Barry, This sounds alot like the post "Flying Wood" where the workpiece was located (improperly) between the bit and the fence. The workpiece should be "closest to the operator, the bit next and the fence farthest away from the operator as Gerry shows in his excellent diagram post #14... Flying Wood.
To set the router table as a"jointer" the infeed or right hand side fence must be offset slightly from the outfeed fence, which is on the left side. To accomplish this, one could space the outfeed fence (left side), away from the main fence, placing thin washers about 1/16th inch, between the back side of the wood fence and the main support fence.
So, when all is said and done, the outfeed side of the table router fence is closest to the operator and, the infeed side is about 1/16th in behind that. This permits 1/16th inch of stock to be removed with each pass.
NEVER locate the workpiece solely between the bit and the fence. This is an invitation to kickback everytime, hence flying wood. This proceedure is only used to rout a dado or other cut on one side of a larger workpiece and is not a thru cut. This is a dado from the blind side. That's my thought on the subject. Bill
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post #6 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-22-2009, 01:27 AM Thread Starter
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I was useing the router table same as table saw.
Thanks for the info.



Barry

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post #7 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-22-2009, 02:05 AM Thread Starter
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I will check my fence Gerry. The fence came already asembeled, even though the directions shows it needs to be put together. I do not understand the natural design offset part. If I have a piece of wood and say I want to route the bottom edge with a roundover, as the peice is being push, it will hit the outfeed and move away from the cutter because the infeed is around 3/64" back further.
Barry
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Originally Posted by Gerard_sr View Post
I think Chuck is right, but.
There would be a natural design offset of about that amount if both the infeed and outfeed fences are pushed back to their limits.
The only other possibility is having the two washers on the outfeed side in the wrong place, they should be under the wing-nuts and not (possibly) elsewhere.

See attached diagram of the unit.

Cordially,
Gerry



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post #8 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-22-2009, 02:14 AM Thread Starter
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Bill,
You were right, I did have the workpiece set up wrong. (I went bit, wood, fence). My other problem is the outfeed and infeed does not line up. Gerry posted a diagram and I am going to check to see if the fence is put together wrong. I do know the outfeed can be adjusted out further, but it does not recess all the way back. Unless this is normal, I will return tabe for new one.
Thanks,
Barry
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Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
Gerry and Barry, This sounds alot like the post "Flying Wood" where the workpiece was located (improperly) between the bit and the fence. The workpiece should be "closest to the operator, the bit next and the fence farthest away from the operator as Gerry shows in his excellent diagram post #14... Flying Wood.
To set the router table as a"jointer" the infeed or right hand side fence must be offset slightly from the outfeed fence, which is on the left side. To accomplish this, one could space the outfeed fence (left side), away from the main fence, placing thin washers about 1/16th inch, between the back side of the wood fence and the main support fence.
So, when all is said and done, the outfeed side of the table router fence is closest to the operator and, the infeed side is about 1/16th in behind that. This permits 1/16th inch of stock to be removed with each pass.
NEVER locate the workpiece solely between the bit and the fence. This is an invitation to kickback everytime, hence flying wood. This proceedure is only used to rout a dado or other cut on one side of a larger workpiece and is not a thru cut. This is a dado from the blind side. That's my thought on the subject. Bill



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post #9 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-22-2009, 09:31 AM
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Post It's tough, Barry, I don't have one of those and...

It's tough, Barry, I don't have one of those and I don't know when I'll get up to Sears to lay my hands on one.
But there's gotta be a way that both fences will be on the same plane!
That's a necessity, you know.
I'll try and dig into the diagram and see if any other suggestions pop up.

OK, I re-looked at the instructions, page 19, what, if anything, is preventing the outfeed fence from sliding back?

Take the both fences forward and then try it again please.

Cordially,
Gerry
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Last edited by Gerard_sr; 02-22-2009 at 09:41 AM. Reason: added PDF instructions
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post #10 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-22-2009, 09:59 AM
 
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I have a couple of those little tables. I leave certain bits in them permanently-roundover for examplke- so I can just grab one and use it. There IS a movable fence part on right hand side and it WILL go flush with the infeed side. I think Barry you will just have to play with it a bit....loosen and move etc and check to see if there is burring or some other small flaw that is preventing it from moving. These little fences are crude but useable if you really pay attention.
When you get some time grab a couple videos on routing etc. It will really help you.
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