Triton 2 1/4 Router - Router Forums
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post #1 of 63 (permalink) Old 02-24-2009, 12:56 AM Thread Starter
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Default Triton 2 1/4 Router

Was wondering if anyone has bought one of these routers? I am planning on building a extension table for my tablesaw to accomodate my router.

I have considered a lift kit system but they are very expenseive. When i saw the Triton I noticed it can be adjusted from uptop on the table. I really like the idea and the fact you can change out bits very quickly without the need of a wrench.

If anyone can share some of their experience with me or offer up any suggestion I would appreciate it very much.

Thanks
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post #2 of 63 (permalink) Old 02-24-2009, 01:10 AM
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Hi Dan

I have the Triton and you still need a wrench to remove or install a router bits but I do recommend using the off set/bent wrench, it's makes the job very easy from the top of the table..

You may say why use the offset wrench when the one that came with the router will do the job, many times you don't want to move the router up or down you want the switch the bits out like for the R & S bit sets ( most are matched sets, that's to say the cutters are in the same place from the bottom of the base of the shank) many router bits sets are matched , the offset wrench will let you get under the bit and to the nut without moving the router up or down..

Doing it this way your project parts will always line right up on the button at glue up time..


Off-Set Router Bit Wrench
http://www.ptreeusa.com/routerAcc.htm

=======

Quote:
Originally Posted by TRN_Diesel View Post
Was wondering if anyone has bought one of these routers? I am planning on building a extension table for my tablesaw to accomodate my router.

I have considered a lift kit system but they are very expenseive. When i saw the Triton I noticed it can be adjusted from uptop on the table. I really like the idea and the fact you can change out bits very quickly without the need of a wrench.

If anyone can share some of their experience with me or offer up any suggestion I would appreciate it very much.

Thanks


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Last edited by bobj3; 02-24-2009 at 10:11 PM.
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post #3 of 63 (permalink) Old 02-24-2009, 10:58 AM
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I have a Triton. You do need a wrench to remove and install the bits from above the table. The collet locks automatically when you raise the collet all the way to the top of the table. I use the wrench that came with the Triton. All you need is one wrench to do the job. Great Router by the way!
I just built a table for my Triton. Check out my Gallery to see it.
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post #4 of 63 (permalink) Old 02-24-2009, 08:44 PM
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Bj, how do you lock the spindle if you don't raise the router all the way up where it needs to be to auto-lock?

Harry



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post #5 of 63 (permalink) Old 02-24-2009, 09:23 PM
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I have no major problems with mine. It is now more or less permanently mounted in the table.

1) I removed all the Plexiglas - with it in place I cannot change table inserts or bushings.

2) The lifter is overrated - the hole is often covered by a fence, jig etc. and you still have to reach below the table to lift the bit up to change.

3) Locking the body shifts the bit position - this is minor and probably insignificant for woodwork.

4) The plunge spring is best removed for table use.

5) The "safety" switch drives me potty.

I think as a router it is best used either as a full time table or full time plunge. Changing over with having to re-install the spring, guards etc. is a hassle and a make with two bases would probably be a better choice if you can only have one motor for both purposes.
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post #6 of 63 (permalink) Old 02-24-2009, 09:29 PM
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HI Harry

The one I have it has a push in lock button, it's very easy to push into the pin hole in the harbor shaft and it's locked in place..
I always change the bits from the top side, no need to pop it out at all.. or lift it the norm.
I did by pass the PITA switch with just a small wedge (plastic piece) but it can be removed if I use it for a standard hand plunge router without removing the 11" x 11" base plate

note for crquack
"The lifter is overrated - the hole is often covered by a fence"
If you remount the router you can have the crank to the front and it will not be covered by the fence..
see snapshots above

==

======

Quote:
Originally Posted by harrysin View Post
Bj, how do you lock the spindle if you don't raise the router all the way up where it needs to be to auto-lock?



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Last edited by bobj3; 02-24-2009 at 10:39 PM.
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post #7 of 63 (permalink) Old 02-25-2009, 07:49 AM
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Bj ,
I was thinking of repositioning my router on the insert so the crank is in the front where it won't be covered by the fence. I'm going to install an easy to reach paddle Kill switch w/outlet for the vac. This way I won't be reaching under the table fumbling for the power switch.
Now that I read what you said about the crank being "over rated" you inspired me to move forward and get it done.
Thanks!
Tony
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post #8 of 63 (permalink) Old 02-25-2009, 09:50 AM
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Hi Tony

You're Welcome

The paddle Kill switchs are great BUT it's so easy to put a dual outlet and a switch on the side of the cabinet,,,one plastic remodel box,one dual outlet,one switch and you have it done for about 5.oo dollars, you always end up on the outfeed side of the cabinet the norm,it's so easy to just put your hand down on the left side turn it off and to pull the plug for the router, I don't recommend the front side of the cabinet for any outlets,they are behind the switch the norm or on the inside of the cabinet and it's just a pain to unplug them and in time you will not pull the plug..

Most of us are lazy and you must make it easy or you will not do it every time..

I will say I do put mind almost in the center of the cabinet side, that's because I use both sides of the router table top...I just flip the fence around for the big stuff..just more flat top space..

========



Quote:
Originally Posted by tjcarita View Post
Bj ,
I was thinking of repositioning my router on the insert so the crank is in the front where it won't be covered by the fence. I'm going to install an easy to reach paddle Kill switch w/outlet for the vac. This way I won't be reaching under the table fumbling for the power switch.
Now that I read what you said about the crank being "over rated" you inspired me to move forward and get it done.
Thanks!
Tony



"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions"

Marc Sommerfeld Tools ,Videos
http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT-n...RWaEpMA/videos

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Last edited by bobj3; 02-25-2009 at 09:54 AM.
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post #9 of 63 (permalink) Old 02-25-2009, 09:59 AM
 
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Default Triton Router

I just purchased the TRC001 Triton router and installed it in the new router tables that garybaritone and I built. You can see the pictures under table top routers titled two new routers posted yesterday 2/24. I agree with teh other comments that you do need the wrench to change bits and there are two ways to lock the shaft. Raise the router to max height or there is a button on the side that you can push to lock it. I purchsed the offset wrench from Sommerfeld so that I can remove bits from the top without moving the router position.
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post #10 of 63 (permalink) Old 02-25-2009, 07:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobj3 View Post
Hi Tony

You're Welcome

The paddle Kill switchs are great BUT it's so easy to put a dual outlet and a switch on the side of the cabinet,,,one plastic remodel box,one dual outlet,one switch and you have it done for about 5.oo dollars, you always end up on the outfeed side of the cabinet the norm,it's so easy to just put your hand down on the left side turn it off and to pull the plug for the router, I don't recommend the front side of the cabinet for any outlets,they are behind the switch the norm or on the inside of the cabinet and it's just a pain to unplug them and in time you will not pull the plug..

Most of us are lazy and you must make it easy or you will not do it every time..

I will say I do put mind almost in the center of the cabinet side, that's because I use both sides of the router table top...I just flip the fence around for the big stuff..just more flat top space..

========
Bj,
Too late Bj, I saw pic's of woodnthings switch on the forum and ordered the switch form Grizzly soon after. I picked up two boxes at Home Depot and an outlet. The switch was only $10 bucks and the boxes & outlet was about $10 so not to bad in cost. I liked the big paddle that I can slam with my knee if I need to. Why don't Triton make the crank a little longer. mY fence is 4" H and when the bit is low the crank hits the fence. I move it to the front like you said and that worked great.
Thanks
Tony

Last edited by tjcarita; 02-26-2009 at 11:58 PM.
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