Hardboard for table top - Router Forums
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post #1 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-14-2018, 08:21 PM Thread Starter
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Default Hardboard for table top

I know hardboard gets used for work table tops and even router table tops. I read somewhere here about using hardboard that's finished on both sides. I got to doing more research on hardboard, AKA: "Masonite" the well known name brand.
Here's what I found. Seems like S2S is what's needed for my project.
https://harborsales.net/Portals/0/do...what_is_it.pdf

Wow, more to hardboard than I thought. I install flooring, carpet, vinyl laminate and floating type flooring etc. I use 1/8" hardboard as a floor protector to slide furniture on. Lot's of other uses. The stuff that I use has a 'sorta" hard surface and in finished on one side.
I need some good old Masonite for stability and strength if I'm going to use it for my router table's work surface. That is If I can find some. None of the 4 local lumber yards stock anything like S2S or Masonite brand.
I need to know what kind of screwing pattern is needed so the surface remains flat when I screw it onto the table. Is 6 inch spacing close enough for 1/4" Masonite (or equivalent)?

Last edited by ranman; 01-14-2018 at 08:29 PM.
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post #2 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-14-2018, 08:28 PM
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Hey Randy I would use glue to attach the hard board.

Don in Murfreesboro,Tn.

Measure once cut twice and it's still to short.
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post #3 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-14-2018, 08:42 PM Thread Starter
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I figured it would be replaceable if countersunk screws were used. I'm making an aluminum frame as the superstructure of the top.
I figure on using a combination of rectangular 1-1/2" by 1" aluminum for the perimeter of the frame and then use square 3/4 by 3/4" metal for the center cross supports. The tubing has .160" wall thickness and that's good for welding and won't sag on such short spans. I figure 26" by 32" or 24" by 30"
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post #4 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-14-2018, 08:47 PM
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For my router table(s), I used Formica laminated on 3/4 inch MDF, and on 3/4 inch plywood.

The work bench top was a solid core door. I put the Formica on it also. It got quiet a workout before I passed it on to my brother in law. He loves it.
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post #5 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-14-2018, 09:34 PM Thread Starter
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Wow, I want one of each of those........... and a shop too.

I should have mentioned that mine is made to be light and portable. A strong and extremely flat aluminum table top with a thin flat work surface. I don't have an indoor work area, or works shop, so the table top will be stored indoors when not in use......... not in use will be most of the time. I won't use this very often.
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post #6 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-14-2018, 09:50 PM
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Off topic...

Each time I see a picture of Mike's dueling routers table, I intuitively love it... and I wonder what I'd do with a two router table setup. Of course this is coming from a guy who joined the forum less than two months ago for advice on his first router purchase and I've thus far resisted the temptation to buy a second.

Back to topic, if I was attaching 1/4" masonite atop an aluminum frame for a router table, I'd want very close support spacing and I'd want the router attached to the aluminum and not the masonite. If the aluminum supports were spaced 4" apart, I'd be comfortable. At 6", I think the masonite would deflect under pressure. My brain is much happier thinking of my tools as not moving at all, so I want movement below perception level.

I'd feel much better about the whole thing with the masonite attached to at least 1/2" plywood, and I'd screw the plywood to the frame from underneath. And if not for the support structure mentioned, I'd use a double layer of plywood as others above suggested.

You'll get more experienced advise from others though. I'm still a router newbie.

-Ashley
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post #7 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-14-2018, 10:01 PM
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double stick tape for the field and 4 corners for the screws..
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post #8 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-14-2018, 10:18 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AshleyJ View Post
Off topic...

Each time I see a picture of Mike's dueling routers table, I intuitively love it... and I wonder what I'd do with a two router table setup. Of course this is coming from a guy who joined the forum less than two months ago for advice on his first router purchase and I've thus far resisted the temptation to buy a second.

Back to topic, if I was attaching 1/4" masonite atop an aluminum frame for a router table, I'd want very close support spacing and I'd want the router attached to the aluminum and not the masonite. If the aluminum supports were spaced 4" apart, I'd be comfortable. At 6", I think the masonite would deflect under pressure. My brain is much happier thinking of my tools as not moving at all, so I want movement below perception level.

I'd feel much better about the whole thing with the masonite attached to at least 1/2" plywood, and I'd screw the plywood to the frame from underneath. And if not for the support structure mentioned, I'd use a double layer of plywood as others above suggested.

You'll get more experienced advise from others though. I'm still a router newbie.
The plywood on the aluminum as you mentioned was the same as I was thinking initially.... The possibility of using only Masonite became my thought at some point. If that doesn't feel like it will work, then the plywood will be used. I can't get arctic birch anywhere locally, but some high layer cabinet grade might be stable if sealed up well.
I'm going to have to wait to see how the aluminum table framework comes out first.
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post #9 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-14-2018, 10:23 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stick486 View Post
double stick tape for the field and 4 corners for the screws..
I like that, Stick.
I'll see if I can draw up a sketch of the frame idea. I have a friend that's an excellent welder. I just need to cut the aluminum pieces accurately.
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post #10 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-14-2018, 11:08 PM
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Here is something for you to consider...

The portable work table I made has proven to be very handy. Just a top and a couple of saw horses and a pair of 2x4's. I cut the 2x4's so they would fit inside of the bed of my truck (68 inches).

The dog holes make for all kinds of clamping possibilities.

3/4 inch mdf with a couple of coats off poly so the glue won't stick.
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Last edited by MT Stringer; 01-14-2018 at 11:10 PM.
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