Where to position the baseplate - Router Forums
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-01-2009, 10:49 PM Thread Starter
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Default Where to position the baseplate

Hi All - I have decided to build myself a basic router table based loosely on the design of the table used on the RWS. After having seen a few episodes of the show I became hooked on the simplicity of that table and what it could accomplish.

I was thinking of building a top sized at either 18" x 24" or 18" x 30". I have an aluminum baseplate that is 9" x 11" which I would like to use. What are your thoughts on the placement of the baseplate? I am particularly in interested in where the center of the plate should be located (dead center of the table or offset to one side) and how I should position the plate given that it is rectangular and not square.

My thought was that if I go with the smaller table I should center the plate at 12 inches on the long edge and 9 on the short (basically centered on the top). If I go with the larger table I was thinking that the plate would be centered on the short edge and placed 12 inches in from the left side on the long edge, leaving 18 inches to the right.

I noticed that the table in the RWS has the plate set to the left of center on the long side and it appears to be centered on the short side. What is the benefit of offsetting the plate vs. centering it on the table?

Thanks in advance for helping guide a newbie in the right direction!
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-01-2009, 11:13 PM
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Hi Calvin222

That's a good question,,,I think they set it up that way to leave room for the bit storage/storage for parts/tools etc. on the right side...if I was going to use a 9" x 12" plate I would run it the long way on the short end on the top...but I would not use a Alum.plate they do put marks on the wood that are hard to get out.. plus you can use a short fence that will save a buck on the fence..total...
Just as note,,, you can get a 9 x 12 phenolic plate for only 20.oo bucks with the snap in rings.......

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=94331
====







Quote:
Originally Posted by Calvin222 View Post
Hi All - I have decided to build myself a basic router table based loosely on the design of the table used on the RWS. After having seen a few episodes of the show I became hooked on the simplicity of that table and what it could accomplish.

I was thinking of building a top sized at either 18" x 24" or 18" x 30". I have an aluminum baseplate that is 9" x 11" which I would like to use. What are your thoughts on the placement of the baseplate? I am particularly in interested in where the center of the plate should be located (dead center of the table or offset to one side) and how I should position the plate given that it is rectangular and not square.

My thought was that if I go with the smaller table I should center the plate at 12 inches on the long edge and 9 on the short (basically centered on the top). If I go with the larger table I was thinking that the plate would be centered on the short edge and placed 12 inches in from the left side on the long edge, leaving 18 inches to the right.

I noticed that the table in the RWS has the plate set to the left of center on the long side and it appears to be centered on the short side. What is the benefit of offsetting the plate vs. centering it on the table?

Thanks in advance for helping guide a newbie in the right direction!



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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-02-2009, 04:24 AM
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I would agree with BJ, get your plate from HF. My table is 32"X46" why so big? I had a top that wasn't doing any thing so I put it to work, same with the cabinets. I use this table for a run out table at the table saw or as a work station. My router comes out so easily and then I have a plain phenolic piece I put in the hole.
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-02-2009, 07:17 AM
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Since you have a plate, I doubt you'll be wanting to buy another one soon. I prefer to put mine on the left side of the table, about in the middle from front to back. That leaves room to support the stock in the front and infeed side, and the fence in the back.

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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-02-2009, 11:44 AM
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I'd suggest giving some thought to the nature of the work you'll be doing on the table before deciding on the table size and location of the mounting plate. You'll want good support for the size of work pieces you'll be most frequently dealing with, and on both infeed and outfeed sides. And, you'll want enough table to the back side of the plate to accommodate the fence guides. Although a lot of work positions the bit in, or near the fence, there are operations (dadoes, for example) where the bit is well in front of the fence.

So, while a larger table is more versatile (to a point), the bit-to-front edge distance should allow you to reach the fence line without stretching or straining too much. That aspect, along with whether the router table will also be used as a table-saw outfeed surface, should govern the height of the table surface.

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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-02-2009, 12:22 PM
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Although I don’t have a lot of experience with routers, I would say that the location of your plate is not that critical. From the practical point of view I would say that it’s better to locate the plate a couple of inches off center towards the front; this way you will have the bit closer to you for final adjustments. Regarding the left / right location, it depends where the fence will be located; if you like to have the fence on your right, then locate the plate 2” to 4” off center to the right. This way you will have more room on the left side of the fence – where all the work will be done. The space behind the fence is a wasted space and I will keep it to the minimum.

The snap-in rings a phenolic plate provides are indispensable. Latter on you will find that you need these rings to adjust the opening around the bit. You did not mention the thickness of the 9”x 11” aluminum base plate you have. Is this a leftover plate from other projects or is made for routers? If not you will have to think how you will center your router over this plate and accurately drill the required mounting holes.

Down the line you will definitely need one or more base plates. I just started in routing and I already have 3 base plates. One phenolic and 2 clear acrylics. One of my acrylic plates is just a round base and it helps me see my work under the plate. The other one is an offset base plate which helps you to balance your router along edge work.

Hope the above will provide you with some guidance in your work

Nicolas
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-02-2009, 01:27 PM
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Don't the RWS guys have their plates in the center of their fenceless table tops?

This will be your 1st table and from this you'll decide what to improve on the 2nd table a few yrs down the road.

A couple things to consider when placing the base plate.

There's a point where the size of your project will be too big for safe and easy handling on the table, so a table size of 24X32 is common.

If your building from scratch is the table supported by a big empty box or are you constructing a cabinet with drawers or shelves? Placement of the base plate will be regulated by the confines of the box/cab.

There are few logical reasons to place stock between bit and fence, so if there are no front to back limitations within cabinet or box the edge of the plate could sit 5 or 6" from the back

Table height is just as important, It should be regulated by your height not some square peg dogma.

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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-02-2009, 02:39 PM
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Jerry, you have a very nice table but it’s not clear to me which is the front side……

Picture #2 shows the miter track on the right hand side and 3 drawer handles on the front left

Picture #4 shows the miter track on the left and 3 drawer handles on the right

Do you have half drawers on both front & back ends of your table?

Just curious
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-02-2009, 10:32 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks to all of you for your input.

I hadn't realized that the aluminum could cause marking of the wood. That would drive me nuts so back it goes! I'll most likely get the plate from HF.

The reason I had been shying towards a smaller table was because I have a severe lack of space in which to store it. Most of my work is done in the backyard rather in a dedicated shop and the table needs to be portable since I will move it from the shed to the work area when needed and it will not serve as an outfeed table. However, it seems as if a top in the 18" x 24" range would provide much less flexibility than something larger. That being said, I now find myself leaning towards a larger top (18x30 or 24x32) with an overall height of about 20" or so.

Right now I am still feeling out what my needs are which is why I had been focused on the simplicity of the table on the RWS. I was thinking about adding a bank of drawers on the right side (which would give more weight to the argument for the larger table, I guess). Ultimately I would like to take a shot at making some file cabinets and storage for the office, including some frame and panel doors.

Lets assume that I decide to go with the 24x32 table top with a bank of drawers on the right side. It seems as if I would be okay setting the long edge of the plate parellel to the short edge of the table with the middle of the plate centered along the short edge. What about the positioning from left to right? What would be a good distance to position the center of the plate from the left edge? Would 12" suffice or should there be more/less? I realize that the final placement is a product of how wide I decide to make the drawers.

Also, are there any benefits to having a square plate mounted in the table vs a rectangular one?
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-02-2009, 10:43 PM
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Hi Calvin222


" are there any benefits to having a square plate mounted in the table vs a rectangular one?"

Yes , many routers have handles and it can be a PITA to get them to drop in a 11" x 11" hole without taking the handles off the router..you can always just turn them but a pain..

I can't say to much about the size of the top, that's up to you

=========



Quote:
Originally Posted by Calvin222 View Post
Thanks to all of you for your input.

I hadn't realized that the aluminum could cause marking of the wood. That would drive me nuts so back it goes! I'll most likely get the plate from HF.

The reason I had been shying towards a smaller table was because I have a severe lack of space in which to store it. Most of my work is done in the backyard rather in a dedicated shop and the table needs to be portable since I will move it from the shed to the work area when needed and it will not serve as an outfeed table. However, it seems as if a top in the 18" x 24" range would provide much less flexibility than something larger. That being said, I now find myself leaning towards a larger top (18x30 or 24x32) with an overall height of about 20" or so.

Right now I am still feeling out what my needs are which is why I had been focused on the simplicity of the table on the RWS. I was thinking about adding a bank of drawers on the right side (which would give more weight to the argument for the larger table, I guess). Ultimately I would like to take a shot at making some file cabinets and storage for the office, including some frame and panel doors.

Lets assume that I decide to go with the 24x32 table top with a bank of drawers on the right side. It seems as if I would be okay setting the long edge of the plate parellel to the short edge of the table with the middle of the plate centered along the short edge. What about the positioning from left to right? What would be a good distance to position the center of the plate from the left edge? Would 12" suffice or should there be more/less? I realize that the final placement is a product of how wide I decide to make the drawers.

Also, are there any benefits to having a square plate mounted in the table vs a rectangular one?



"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions"

Marc Sommerfeld Tools ,Videos
http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT-n...RWaEpMA/videos

Find all threads started by bobj3
http://www.routerforums.com/search.php?searchid=944097



Last edited by bobj3; 03-02-2009 at 10:46 PM.
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