Can a box be squared on a router table? - Router Forums
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-02-2009, 05:55 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 70
 
Default Can a box be squared on a router table?

Ok maybe I'm giving this too much thought.
I built a box out of 1/2 poplar that is 4.45 x 4.75 x 5.5" (height). After all sides have been glued, I have a bit of difference between each side. I'd like to be able to make them all on the same plane and then do the same for the other end. If my miter saw or my table saw was big enough, I could run it thru that but..... it isn't.
So is there a way on a router table that what I've described can be done? I've thought about a straight bit with a bearing, setting up my fence with a shim on the out feed side ( making sure the shim and the amount of wood being taken off would be the same --- like a planer)...etc etc.
Make me feel stupid..... tell me something simple and prove to me that I've got a mind freeze going on.

Thanks
Greeneyedeagle is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-02-2009, 06:39 PM
Registered User
 
Ghidrah's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Country: United States
First Name: Ronald
Posts: 1,466
 
Default

If your table is flat, and the fence is square to it you could make parallel cuts and with a sled that runs along the fence you could square them.

You're limited to the size of the dimensions of the materials you can do it with on a conventional table.

With a circular saw, slick blade and a giant speed square can do virtually the same thing

Never bite the hand that looks dirty!
The more you know the more you're worth
Ghidrah is offline  
post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-02-2009, 07:10 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 70
 
Default

It's amazing what a nice hot shower will do..... and a light bulb went off.
What about this......
I take some 3/4 mdf that I have and I cut two square pieces about 7x7. I then attach one 90 degrees to the other. So now I have one that is flat on the table and the other is perpendicular to the table. I then mount a 1/2" standoff block on the perpendicular board that would be about a 4"x 4". Then all I would have to do is clamp my box to the perpendicular board, set my bit height to take off about 1/32 off the highest side of the box, and then pass each side ofer the bit. I have a 3/4 straight bit that I think would work. just not too sure if there would be any tearout anywhere.

What are your thoughts?
Greeneyedeagle is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-02-2009, 07:22 PM
Forum Contributor
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Country: United States
First Name: Bj
Posts: 23,786
       
Default

Hi Palmer

I would say just use it the way it is,, and just make one more the way you want it to be, you could use the band saw but it's a long shot to get it just right..like they say junk in junk out




========

Quote:
Originally Posted by Greeneyedeagle View Post
Ok maybe I'm giving this too much thought.
I built a box out of 1/2 poplar that is 4.45 x 4.75 x 5.5" (height). After all sides have been glued, I have a bit of difference between each side. I'd like to be able to make them all on the same plane and then do the same for the other end. If my miter saw or my table saw was big enough, I could run it thru that but..... it isn't.
So is there a way on a router table that what I've described can be done? I've thought about a straight bit with a bearing, setting up my fence with a shim on the out feed side ( making sure the shim and the amount of wood being taken off would be the same --- like a planer)...etc etc.
Make me feel stupid..... tell me something simple and prove to me that I've got a mind freeze going on.

Thanks



"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions"

Marc Sommerfeld Tools ,Videos
http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT-n...RWaEpMA/videos

Find all threads started by bobj3
http://www.routerforums.com/search.php?searchid=944097


bobj3 is offline  
post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-02-2009, 07:36 PM
Registered User
 
woodnthings's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Country: United States
First Name: "BILL"
Posts: 110
 
Red face

Hey Palmer, I'd like to know if you have a parallelogram or a trapezoid, before recommending anything. If you have 2 parallel sides and the ends are out of whack, or vice-versa, that would make life easier. If not, you gotta start with the best face as a reference and mark or tape it. A straight bit say 2" just peeking out from the fence 1/32 or so and 1" high off the table, and the with best face against the miter gage make a light pass on the right side of the box. That should give you a second partial face at 90 degrees to the best face. Now it gets tricky, If you have a parallelogram rotate the box 180 degrees on the bottom and take another pass with the side opposite best against the miter gage. This reveal, or the lip or offset created, is the difference between "square" on the ends.
The same operation could just as easily be done on a table saw.
Now we have to remove any stock that is not in the same plane as the newly routed reveal.....you are on your own from here.....belt sander? bandsaw?, hand plane? sub it out? With the table router we are limited by the depth of cut.
If you have a trapezoid you'd have to keep best face against the miter gage at all times and flip the box upside down making one router pass from the top down and the other from the bottom up. The last side of the zoid needs to be made parallel to the best face and would require a positioning fixture to keep everything square. Since we can't pass the box between the bit and the fence see post "Flying Wood", a fixture is required. BUT, there is still the issue of removing the stock that is not co-planer with the now squared reveal. Same issue as above. I have contributed absolutely nothing here, I'm leaving now, bill

Never stand directly behind or in front of a horse or tablesaw that's running! Often when I read my own posts, I agree with myself even more.

Last edited by woodnthings; 03-02-2009 at 07:38 PM.
woodnthings is offline  
post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-02-2009, 07:40 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 70
 
Default

Hey Bob,
Well the thing is that I'm going to be making a lot of these and all will have lids glued down and some will have pestal bottoms and some will not.. so I need both ends to be as flat and square to the sides as possible. Yea I agree that I need to do a better job when glueing the sides together.... i.e. I've used the 45 degree miter bit on the corners. Just trying tot fine tune a few things...but thanks
Greeneyedeagle is offline  
post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-02-2009, 07:43 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 70
 
Default

Thanks Bill..... you make me laugh..WHILE still trying to help.... I understand where you are going with all of this. Most of my boxes will be square or rectangle so that helps me some. But I follow you.... thanks
Greeneyedeagle is offline  
post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-02-2009, 08:25 PM
Forum Contributor
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Country: United States
First Name: Bj
Posts: 23,786
       
Default

Hi Palmer

You may want to make setup jig, go ,no-go type jig, cut all the parts for the box and plus some , put them in the setup up jig, go no-go jig,if they all line up just right then glue them up in a glue up box jig,made out of poly.so the glue will not stick to the jig...

I will say 45 degree miter joints are VERY hard to get right..each miter cut must be dead on.. 8 cuts and it only takes one to knock it out of square..

http://www.ptreeusa.com/uhmwproducts.htm

========




Quote:
Originally Posted by Greeneyedeagle View Post
Hey Bob,
Well the thing is that I'm going to be making a lot of these and all will have lids glued down and some will have pestal bottoms and some will not.. so I need both ends to be as flat and square to the sides as possible. Yea I agree that I need to do a better job when glueing the sides together.... i.e. I've used the 45 degree miter bit on the corners. Just trying tot fine tune a few things...but thanks



"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions"

Marc Sommerfeld Tools ,Videos
http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT-n...RWaEpMA/videos

Find all threads started by bobj3
http://www.routerforums.com/search.php?searchid=944097



Last edited by bobj3; 03-02-2009 at 08:41 PM.
bobj3 is offline  
post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-02-2009, 08:27 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 70
 
Default

That's an idea..... thanks
Greeneyedeagle is offline  
post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-02-2009, 08:50 PM
Honored Member
 
harrysin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Country: Australia
First Name: Harry
Posts: 14,326
     
Send a message via Skype™ to harrysin
Default

Some time ago I needed to make several identical boxes so I made these two identical jigs. After gluing all four sides and wrapping masking tape around to hold the sides together and squeeze out the excess glue, the carcass is pressed into one jig and the second jig pressed onto the carcass. All the boxes turned out with 90* corners and non stuck to the jig.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	box-jigs.jpg
Views:	49
Size:	16.7 KB
ID:	20749  


Harry



Nothing but heaven itself is better than a friend who is really a friend. - Plautus






harrysin is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Router Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Problem mounting Dewalt Router to Caftsman Table Saw apollo2000 General Routing 15 01-26-2015 03:30 AM
Craftsman Router with Wolfcraft® Folding Router Table WoodCrazy Table-mounted Routing 2 01-05-2010 02:12 AM
Already Problems neuschu New Member Introductions 11 12-15-2009 08:01 AM
New Router Table RustyW Show N' Tell 10 08-28-2006 02:23 AM
A REALLY simple router table Occam Table-mounted Routing 7 11-30-2004 10:41 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome