BOSCH 1617EVS mounting on a router table - Router Forums
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post #1 of 60 (permalink) Old 03-02-2018, 04:35 PM Thread Starter
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Default BOSCH 1617EVS mounting on a router table

Hi folks,

I'm a woodworking beginner (or not even a beginner) and a newbie to this forum.
I noticed BOSCH 1617EVS is a recommended router with quite positive reviews, and I'm thinking to buy this as my first router.

I plan to make a router table and mount the router. A question I have is, to mount the router seems an insert plate must be installed and it can't be made from home.
Considering the price of insert plate on Amazon, is it still a good option to build router table myself or buy a one from the market, in terms of cost?
and is this a good router designed to be mounted upside down the table?

thank you very much
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post #2 of 60 (permalink) Old 03-02-2018, 04:50 PM
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Hello and welcome to the router forum.
The BOSCH 1617EVS is a excellent router to mount in a table,having a insert is a very good option they come in Various sizes and types and a great difference in prices.
There are a lot threads-on the forum dealing with the subject.
I am sure the members will be along to help you

Looking forward to your participation.
Filling out your profile to include (first name,tools and short bio is strictly (optional )but does help members to better relate to each other.
Thank You John
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post #3 of 60 (permalink) Old 03-02-2018, 05:13 PM
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Hey, Ironman; welcome!
Yes on the 1617, but as you've probably already learned, the Bosch 1617 comes as the EVS version...fixed base, or the EVSPK which comes with both the fixed and PLUNGE base.
The regulars here are tired of my repeating myself but it needs to be said, buy the combination package! You can't do everything on a table. Somethings, signage for example, you need face up to work on. Same applies to doing some things like mortises and dadoes on large panels. Just waaaay easier with a plunge router right side up.
By the way, if you'd like to hang around with us, can we call you by something? John is popular as is Mike...
Please fill in a little about yourself in the profile area over on the left. Just click on Ironman and it'll open up for you.
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post #4 of 60 (permalink) Old 03-02-2018, 05:38 PM
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Welcome to the forum N/a . A first name in your profile is always nice , unless you prefer Ironman .
If I could do it all again I’d purchace a nice solid aluminum plate like Incras , and build a table and fence from scratch, so I think you have the right idea .
I’ll let the experts give you advice though,as I’m still in the learning phase myself.

I took the easy way out and bought the table top ,fence and plate from Incra, with intentions of building the base myself . This way I can personalize the design for the dust collection area and router bit drawers .
But I feel much more confident than I did when I joined , and would scratch build most of it now if I hadn’t purchaced most of it already

I donít always insulate , but when I do .
Ok ,I never insulate

Last edited by RainMan 2.0; 03-02-2018 at 05:44 PM.
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post #5 of 60 (permalink) Old 03-02-2018, 05:41 PM
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@ironman21 - I've got a Bosch 1617 mounted in a router table. I purchased the 1617EVSPK which came with both the fixed base and the plunge base. I attached the fixed base to a Kreg router plate in a home made table. I can easily pull the motor and attach the plunge base for hand held routing. If you're going to purchase a Bosch, I suggest you get the kit with both fixed and plunge bases. For my setup I bought the Kreg levelers which meant I didn't have to route a rabbet around the opening. However, there are many instances of plates sitting in rabbeted openings without the need for the levelers. As was said, there are many threads here dealing with cutting openings in a table top for insertion of a router plate.

Here's a link to the levelers. I bought mine at Lee Valley Tools near my home town.

https://www.kregtool.com/store/c41/r...late-levelers/

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post #6 of 60 (permalink) Old 03-02-2018, 06:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vchiarelli View Post
@ironman21 - I've got a Bosch 1617 mounted in a router table. I purchased the 1617EVSPK which came with both the fixed base and the plunge base. I attached the fixed base to a Kreg router plate in a home made table. I can easily pull the motor and attach the plunge base for hand held routing. If you're going to purchase a Bosch, I suggest you get the kit with both fixed and plunge bases. For my setup I bought the Kreg levelers which meant I didn't have to route a rabbet around the opening. However, there are many instances of plates sitting in rabbeted openings without the need for the levelers. As was said, there are many threads here dealing with cutting openings in a table top for insertion of a router plate.

Here's a link to the levelers. I bought mine at Lee Valley Tools near my home town.

https://www.kregtool.com/store/c41/r...late-levelers/


Those are pretty cool,Vince, Hadn't seen those before. Thanks for posting.
Herb
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post #7 of 60 (permalink) Old 03-02-2018, 06:37 PM Thread Starter
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Danin and all, thank you so much for your warm welcome and good advice!

I do know that there is another model EVSPK with both fixed and plunge base. However, if I plan to mount it onto a table, it's not so convenient to take it off frequently and use the plunge base? unless I have another router with plunge base? Let's my understanding.
So looks you are suggesting to have one table mounted and another plunge based?

I'll fill up more details in the profile.

Thanks again.


Quote:
Originally Posted by DaninVan View Post
Hey, Ironman; welcome!
Yes on the 1617, but as you've probably already learned, the Bosch 1617 comes as the EVS version...fixed base, or the EVSPK which comes with both the fixed and PLUNGE base.
The regulars here are tired of my repeating myself but it needs to be said, buy the combination package! You can't do everything on a table. Somethings, signage for example, you need face up to work on. Same applies to doing some things like mortises and dadoes on large panels. Just waaaay easier with a plunge router right side up.
By the way, if you'd like to hang around with us, can we call you by something? John is popular as is Mike...
Please fill in a little about yourself in the profile area over on the left. Just click on Ironman and it'll open up for you.
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post #8 of 60 (permalink) Old 03-02-2018, 07:36 PM
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I think Kreg has a modest priced mounting plate made of phenolic plastic. I prefer aluminum. Cutting the opening is usually done with a jig saw in a one or preferably two layers of very flat ply. You put the plate where you want it and set four flat boards around it as shown in the drawing. Use playing cards to add just a little wiggle room or you'll have problems getting the plate in or out later. You cut out the rough opening an eighth of an inch smaller, then use a trim bit with a bearing on the base to rout the opening using the four boards as a guide you run the bearing against. This will give you a very nice opening. Here are a couple of illustrations. It is easier than you think it will be and will give you a little practice. I hope Stick will post his collection of pdfs shortly. Read them! Great information.

I prefer a two layer table, with the second or bottom layer made of MDF or fery flat ply. Glue the two together. Personally, I'd cut the opening in the second layer a half inch smaller on all 4 sides to give yourself a shelf or rabbet the plate will sit on. The leveling screws are for bringing the plate precisely level with the top. Better to have the mounting plate slightly higher than have it even slightly lower.

I added a picture of my choice of mounting plate, made by Woodpecker, which has simple twist lock inserts (the red rings). Most cheaper mounting plates have screws holding the inserts, which are easy to lose and annoying to mess with. I think Kreg now has this kind of twist lock plate.

You don't need a formal table to hold the top, you can put it across a couple of saw horses. But if you're interested in some early projects you can make a simple cabinet. BTW, I think you have to order a metal key to adjust the Bosch's height from above the table. It's cheap.

For a fence, you can simply use a very straight section of knot free 2x4 (kiln dried). Cut an opening by pulling it into the router (slowly). Later you're going to want to. Later I'll post a long piece on getting started. Hopefully it will get you going without spending a ton of money. Hope this helps
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post #9 of 60 (permalink) Old 03-02-2018, 07:47 PM
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Simon the reason I mention Incra is for dust control . Although I’m sure other brands work to a point .
I like there inserts, and they make clean sweep ones also , so you can eliminate more dust.

https://www.incra.com/router_system_...ories-mlp.html


http://www.incrementaltools.com/Prod...-CSRING-SINGLE

You don’t need to buy there box for underneath,as you can design that yourself, but the clean sweep inserts would be nice .


I donít always insulate , but when I do .
Ok ,I never insulate

Last edited by RainMan 2.0; 03-02-2018 at 07:55 PM.
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post #10 of 60 (permalink) Old 03-02-2018, 08:04 PM
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I really like my Kreg pocket hole jig . Not a lot of money and very handy for many applications.
It’s being used in these videos . There’s several segments you can watch.
There’s a thousand ways to build a router table , but I like this guy’s ideas ,and it’s a good watch

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I donít always insulate , but when I do .
Ok ,I never insulate
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