Router plate template help - Router Forums
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-28-2009, 01:07 AM Thread Starter
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Default Router plate template help

I recently purchased a Rockler discontinued 1/4 inch router plate 1/4'' Machined Aluminum Router Table Plates - Discontinued - Rockler Woodworking Tools for my new Bosch Model 1617EVSPK router. Well, they also discontinued the template for the plate, and low and behold, no one I can find, internet based or storefront has them. So I need to make my own. I plan on taking the template and using a template bit (which I haven't purchased yet) to make a positive copy, then a negative template. I am using some synthetic bowling lane material I have, and its hard as hell, and slick to boot, so I figgure the bit will be trashed when I'm done, and I really only have one shot at it. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-28-2009, 01:27 AM
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No advice but welcome to the forums Haggus.




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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-28-2009, 02:17 AM
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There are a couple of discontinued mounting plates. Please post the size of yours. I bought one of the clearance plates for my PC7518 and snagged the installation template for $5 with it. I would be happy to assist you on the installation. I will measure my plate Saturday and post the dimensions.

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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-28-2009, 02:28 AM Thread Starter
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I have the 8" by 11" plate id get the 8 1/4" by 113/4 plate but I would thing the corner radius would be different.
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-28-2009, 11:28 AM
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A couple of questions. First, did the plate come pre-drilled for your Bosch router? I not, you can use your existing baseplate to mark the plate for drilling and countersinking. Be as precise as you can with this, since even small variations in placement of the holes count. A self-centering punch is handy, too.

For insetting the plate into your table, remember you'll want a rabbet around the inside to support the plate - wide enough for support and to accommodate leveling screws. The depth of the rabbet is slightly more than the thickness of the plate, so it can be leveled to the table surface.

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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-28-2009, 01:36 PM Thread Starter
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Yes it is set up pre drilled for my router, weather or not it is accurate I cant say yet. I'm just trying to determine the best way to make my own template accurately as the factory ones are gone. Thanks for all the responses so far.
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-28-2009, 03:08 PM
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As to the template for the plate inset, I think I'd use the actual plate itself as the original guide. That way, you don't have to worry about variations in manufacture, corner radius being the same, etc. You might even be able to use a bit the same radius as your plate corner to run the rabbet.

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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-30-2009, 01:49 AM Thread Starter
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Excellent idea Ralph, thanks, I'm heading to Rockler tomorrow to grab the parts I need for a template guide, as the "quick change" system that comes with the router seems a bit on the loose, or variable side. Since this is my first "real" router, I'm labeling this forum and the ideas and projects there in "the Devil" because I keep comming up with new projects that lead me down a spendy path to complete them. My grandfather used to tell me that "in the most dire situations all you have is your brain, and the tools that you know best, make sure the tool will last as long as your brain", I think a new brain may be cheaper in the long run.
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-30-2009, 02:13 AM
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Here are three ways to mount your plate by using the plate itself as a template...

How to install your router in your router table.

Install a Router Lift Plate - NewWoodworker.com LLC

The third way is in the attached PDF.

Just do a Google search on "router plate installation", or some such, and you will probably find some more ideas.
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File Type: pdf 6-step-router-plate-installation.pdf (329.8 KB, 161 views)

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Last edited by curiousgeorge; 03-30-2009 at 02:17 AM.
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-08-2009, 08:32 PM Thread Starter
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First off, thanks for the welcoming, and the links and advice, I got a Rockler clearance plate, and as some others have experienced, it was not true, undaunted, I made it work. I made my top out of 1/2 inch MDF, I would have liked to use 3/4 but I lack of shop space the top needs to be storeable. I laid our my table and used Elmers Nano glue wherever I wasnt going to be routing. While that cured I went to work on my template, I used some mdf scraps and a 1/2 straight bit with a 1/2 bushing screwing the plate down I made a negative. Using the negative and my 1" bushing I made the actual template. I ended up using the actual template with my 1/2 bushing once more to make it smaller by 1/16th ( glad I checked it before taking the plunge)
The material I used for the top was cut offs that I had from installing bowling alley lanes its 7/16 th's phenolic resin with a treated top coat that doesn't scratch or get marked up, it has to stand up to bowling balls, why not lumber. I sanded that back side as much as it would and went back to gluing and clamping, using my multi track as a guide to save some cutting. You can pretty much see where I went from there, I just rounded the fence tracks to match the 3/4 bit radius because cutting the top is a pain, I pretty much ruined every bit that came into contact with it.
While I didn't want to screw the plate to the table the curve in the plate forced my hand so I drilled and countersunk some holes, using the plate as a guide I drilled the top and smacked some t-nuts on the bottom, the recess and the table are straight, so it pulls the plate straight also. I did make the recess a bit too deep but using a mic. I used the appropriate shims to bring it up to flat.
I also used some of the phenolic resin to enlarge the tiny fence on my new Ridgid R4511 Table saw.
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