First off, thanks for the welcoming, and the links and advice, I got a Rockler clearance plate, and as some others have experienced, it was not true, undaunted, I made it work. I made my top out of 1/2 inch MDF, I would have liked to use 3/4 but I lack of shop space the top needs to be storeable. I laid our my table and used Elmers Nano glue wherever I wasnt going to be routing. While that cured I went to work on my template, I used some mdf scraps and a 1/2 straight bit with a 1/2 bushing screwing the plate down I made a negative. Using the negative and my 1" bushing I made the actual template. I ended up using the actual template with my 1/2 bushing once more to make it smaller by 1/16th ( glad I checked it before taking the plunge)
The material I used for the top was cut offs that I had from installing bowling alley lanes its 7/16 th's phenolic resin with a treated top coat that doesn't scratch or get marked up, it has to stand up to bowling balls, why not lumber. I sanded that back side as much as it would and went back to gluing and clamping, using my multi track as a guide to save some cutting. You can pretty much see where I went from there, I just rounded the fence tracks to match the 3/4 bit radius because cutting the top is a pain, I pretty much ruined every bit that came into contact with it.
While I didn't want to screw the plate to the table the curve in the plate forced my hand so I drilled and countersunk some holes, using the plate as a guide I drilled the top and smacked some t-nuts on the bottom, the recess and the table are straight, so it pulls the plate straight also. I did make the recess a bit too deep but using a mic. I used the appropriate shims to bring it up to flat.
I also used some of the phenolic resin to enlarge the tiny fence on my new Ridgid R4511 Table saw.