Fundamental problem using a fence - Router Forums
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post #1 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-19-2018, 07:39 PM Thread Starter
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Default Fundamental problem using a fence

Hi all.

I'm running a long, thin piece of wood across a chamfer bit to give it a sloped edge. I'm cutting away the entire edge of the board, so the pilot bearing is not making (and can't make, for this application) contact with the wood.

Of course, as the wood travels along the right side of the fence and its edge gets cut away, it doesn't meet the left side of the fence. Thus, when reaching the end of the board (and it is several feet long, much longer than my little Bosch table), I have no way of keeping the thing straight as I drag the last few inches of it across the bit.

Of course this same situation will occur any time you're cutting away the entire edge of a piece on the table, so what is the solution?

Thanks!
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post #2 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-19-2018, 08:14 PM
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Personally I would make that cut at the table saw. It doesn't look like your router table has a split fence, so you might be able to cut some scrap, and place it on the out feed side to support the cut. But really the safest is the table saw.
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post #3 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-19-2018, 08:15 PM
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You need a featherboard to push the piece into the fence. I'd suggest having one before the bit, and one after. Need not be at an angle on the one after the bit so long as it's pressed against the bit.

The other thing I'd do is put a featherboard on the top, pressing down as well. If you're using a commercial featherboard, note that the first "tooth" is shorter than the rest. LIGHTLY press that short tooth agaist the workpiece and the rest will apply proper pressure.

If you don't have a T-track to mount it on the fence, you can clamp it on instead. If you don't have a T-track on the table, you can use a long, open mouth clamp to clamp one down as well. The picture shows the really wide featherboards, which will be easier to clamp to the table top. You can buy these anywhere. I'd also prefer to cut this on a table saw, still using a featherboard.
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post #4 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-19-2018, 08:29 PM
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Use double sided tape or a few drops of hot melt from a glue gun to attach another board on top of the one you’re cutting it acts as a guide then so that you don’t snipe the last bit.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #5 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-19-2018, 08:36 PM
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Another way to do it is to move the fence back to the width of the piece you are machining, you then turn the piece around and feed the piece in from the left side of the table to prevent the bit from pulling the timber along with it, the timber goes between the fence and the router bit, use feather boards to keep the piece against the fence. Make sure you use push sticks and/or push pads when doing this.

This is what I do when I want a piece dressed on the edge of a certain width, cut it a mm or two wider on the table saw then take the excess off on the router table.
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post #6 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-19-2018, 08:52 PM
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Or, route just a small portion of the board, then if your fence is split and the outfeed fence can be shimmed, shim it until it touches the work piece, then continue routing while the outfeed fence is supporting the work.

I was looking for a video from the New Yankee Workshop series on routers - go to the 2:00 minute mark for a video of what I was trying to describe

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post #7 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-19-2018, 09:03 PM
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move the fence forward for a zero offset...
add a piece of material the thickness of the offset to the left side of the fence....

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

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post #8 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-19-2018, 09:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Adams View Post
Personally I would make that cut at the table saw. It doesn't look like your router table has a split fence, so you might be able to cut some scrap, and place it on the out feed side to support the cut. But really the safest is the table saw.
agreed...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #9 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-19-2018, 09:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DesertRatTom View Post
You need a featherboard to push the piece into the fence. I'd suggest having one before the bit, and one after. Need not be at an angle on the one after the bit so long as it's pressed against the bit.
that's not gonna work brcause of the offset..
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This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #10 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-19-2018, 09:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hypnotoad View Post
Another way to do it is to move the fence back to the width of the piece you are machining, you then turn the piece around and feed the piece in from the left side of the table to prevent the bit from pulling the timber along with it, the timber goes between the fence and the router bit, use feather boards to keep the piece against the fence. Make sure you use push sticks and/or push pads when doing this.

This is what I do when I want a piece dressed on the edge of a certain width, cut it a mm or two wider on the table saw then take the excess off on the router table.
for the inexperienced this is a can of DANGEROUS you are suggesting the OP to open...
not a good plan...
what works for you may send somebuddy else to the ER...
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This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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