Best way to cut hole for plate - Router Forums
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-01-2009, 07:49 AM Thread Starter
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Default Best way to cut hole for plate

Well, finally got my phenolic plate to put in my newly made router table top. I've read past threads on the forum, and can't come up with a consensus.

I'll trace a line around the plate. Draw another line 3/8" inch inside that. THEN..use forstner bit to drill hole in corner. Use jig saw wit cut all the way through?

Guess I should use a straight edge guide when using the jig saw? I've also read that I should use my router with plunge base and edge that a better way? And I guess I'll have to use masking tape on the formica to keep it from chipping?

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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-01-2009, 08:17 AM
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The through part of the hole doesn't need to be terribly precise. The outside edge of the rabbet for the plate, however, does need to be an exact fit for the plate. Thus, I'd make a template for use with a guide bushing from the plate itself, and use a bit the same radius as the plate corners.

Also, while aesthetics would dictate that the plate be square to the table edges, that doesn't matter in actual operation.

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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-01-2009, 01:38 PM
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This may help
(bottom of link click "next" to go to next page)
Photo 8 & 9 10 & 11 also show an easy way to do this.
Got link from bottom of bobj3 posts "how to build a router table"

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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-01-2009, 04:41 PM
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I took my lift plate and set it where I wanted it to go on the table top. I paralleled and squared it to the front and side.

I then set a template guide and either a 5/8" or 3/4" straight bit in the plunge and did a test cut to get the exact template offset. I think it was the 3/4" one or the other matched the corner round of the plate well.

I ripped a strip of wood matching the offset and set it around the lift plate. Then I surrounded the offset and plate with 3/4" stock and clamped the 3/4" stock to the table top.

I removed the lift plate and offset strips drilled a 1" hole close to a corner of the new opening started the plunge and routed out the opening.

I use leveling jacks in my opening so there's no ledge to set the plate on.

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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-01-2009, 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by gazippoman View Post
I'll trace a line around the plate. Draw another line 3/8" inch inside that. THEN..use forstner bit to drill hole in corner. Use jig saw wit cut all the way through?
That's the hard way. Use 4 pieces of 1x scrap and double sided tape, then put a pattern bit (bearing on the shank side) that matches the corners in the router.

Rout along the inside edges till you get just a bit deeper than the insert plate. Then cut out the rest of the middle with a jigsaw.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-01-2009, 06:23 PM
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From a book I have (Woodworking with the Router by Bill Hylton):

In a template material like 1/4” hardboard, use carpet tape to secure the mounting router plate on it.

With a 3/8” OD guide bushing and a 1/4” straight bit route clockwise around the plate and keep the guide bushing tight against the mounting plate. Make several passes plunging a little deeper each time until you are done. Don’t forget to put a scrap piece under the template material to protect your surface.

Now position the template you cut where you want it and secure it with carpet tape. Use a 1-1/4” OD guide bushing and a 5/8” straight bit (you can also use a 1” OD guide bushing with a 3/8” straight bit). Set the plunge depth to match your plate and route around the inner perimeter in a counter clockwise direction. Make again several passes plunging a bit at a time.

Cut the waste with a skill saw.

Now you have a template for your plate which you can use it over and over again

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