Ryobi RRT1600 - Page 5 - Router Forums
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post #41 of 60 (permalink) Old 10-15-2019, 10:03 AM
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Profil updated! :-)


We agree on the problem of nylon parts.

Why do you think that my solution won't work with above-the-table height adjustment? Do you think putting a screw in the slide of the adjustment rod is not a good idea? The only problem is knowing where to place on the router the nut that slides on the screw...

Anyway, I note your idea of a hook or clamp on a handle ;-)
For the spindle lock button, it is clear that it is a really impractical system (push the button while tightening the nut, while placing the tool, I miss a hand lol). I'm thinking of a solution so that an element of the table can come to press this button when I want to change tool ... but it also means that the router should be at the same height every time I want to change 'tool. This probably involves bringing up the router completely and thus performing key manipulation from above. It should also be remembered that the button should not remain pressed at startup.
We can say that this router is not the most suitable for mounting under table lol. A lot of small challenges to take up.
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post #42 of 60 (permalink) Old 10-15-2019, 10:45 AM
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@Nico las,
I may not have fully understood what you were saying.
What you have drawn is what I had in mind, but I understood that you wanted to keep the fine adjustment feature. To do what you have illustrated, will probably permanently change your machine, such that it will be difficult to revert to hand-held mode.
You will have to remove the rotating height-adjustment turret, and even drill through the base below it, for the long bolt. I suppose you could tap a thread in the hole and re-install the turret, should you change your mind.
Also, you may have to remove Part 90 - I think the gear teeth may not permit passage of the threaded rod, and the threads on the rod may damage the nylon gear teeth. You may even want to insert some thin-walled aluminium tubing, to ensure that the threads on the rod do not engage with some internal ridges in the depth-adjustment housing.
It should be possible to fit a nut onto the rod where it comes out of the router top cover, as in my photos. Use a washer or two to reduce friction with the housing. I used a coupling nut, but it is not strictly necessary - it just gave me more freedom to weld on a lug to prevent rotation of the nut. If you cannot weld, you could drill through the wall of the nut at an angle, and insert a metal pin to stop the rotation.
Alternatively, you could reduce the end of the threaded rod, and thread it with the same thread as the bolt holding the turret in place. Then you could adjust the height quite conveniently from under the table, using a longish hollow handle with a nut on the end of the tube. I made such a conversion for a friend of mine, who has an AEG router that is fairly similar to yours in design.
I have a large Ryobi router that already came with such a feature, and I have not found it necessary to modify it, even if it does not have the élan and éclat of above table adjustment with a cordless drill.
The bit changing problem is less than you think: normally, you want the bit to be fully inserted in the collet, minus about 2mm. A number of the guys here advocate placing a 2-3mm O-ring inside the collet, and I have followed their advice. Then it is only necessary to drop the bit into the collet, and you have one hand to press in the button (under the table) and another to use the spanner (above the table). Some of the guys here hate that idea, but I am OK with it. The spindle-lock button should have a spring to disengage it when you release the pressure - I think part 14. In any case, I have developed the habit of rotating by hand, to make sure all is all right, before switching on.
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post #43 of 60 (permalink) Old 10-15-2019, 11:26 AM
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Hi Biagio and thanks for all your advice :-)

There are several ideas that seem interesting to me.
No problem to remove the piece 90, it is just placed in its location and held by the housing once closed. Good idea the aluminum protection tube!
And I note the idea of placing an O-ring inside the collar :-).
In the coming days I will think about how to do it. In the first place I will see if there is a possibility to insert the nut into the cavity that currently contains the piece 90. There is very little space (since the adjustment rod is in front of the wheel toothed) but that would be ideal.
One last question: in your opinion what is the minimum diameter that can be chosen for the threaded rod? (I ask the question because this will determine the size of the nut that I will have to fit in the housing)

Thank you very much ;-)
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post #44 of 60 (permalink) Old 10-15-2019, 12:35 PM
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@Nico las,
I have kept to 8mm, as it is not just the weight of the router, but also some stress placed on the threaded rod while in use. But these have been heavy routers - you could probably getaway with 6mm high tensile rod. Even better if you can get acme thread rod and nut.
The pitch of the thread is also important. I can use a fine thread, allowing very fine adjustment, when using the drill to make the big movements up or down. If the adjustment is by hand (like the big Ryobi),a coarser thread is better, otherwise you will be there all day. The big Ryobi has a 10mm rod.
What will you do about the toothed wheel?
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post #45 of 60 (permalink) Old 10-15-2019, 05:04 PM
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I second the placement of an "O" ring if you're going to mount your 1600 Nicolas. I considered mounting mine in a table, but I did want to take it out for plunge routing also.
In the end I bought a Makita router for the table, as I just found the Ryobi too useful for hand-held routing. The good thing about the Makita is it came with an insert that holds the bit above the bottom, so I don't need to hold it. Ryobi won't have done that as it's not designed for table use.

How are you going to get around the trigger start, and speed control?

That was another thing I wasn't sure of. I didn't really want to use a cable tie to permanently pull the trigger, but I couldn't see any other way around it.

As to the spindle lock: perhaps a toggle clamp could be fitted like the picture below (not necessarily that one), that moved with the router? That way you could lock it on or off as needed?
Just trying to think of ideas
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post #46 of 60 (permalink) Old 10-16-2019, 04:54 AM
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@1fizgig
Steve, if you have not already done so, do yourself a favour and mount a switch-socket combination at the front of your router table, with a cable going to your mains socket. Plug the router cable into the switch-socket. That way, it does not matter if the router’s own switch is held permanently on by a plastic tie (I use a largish worm-drive hose clamp).
The switch-socket should be of the zero volt release type (mandatory in many jurisdictions), such that if mains power is cut off for some reason, the router does not switch back on when power is restored.
Even better, the off button should have a mushroom head or an overlying paddle, so that you can bump it with a hip or elbow, in case of emergency.
I honestly have not found the spindle lock button to be a hassle to locate or operate under the table. I think any addition like a toggle clamp, is likely to increase the probability of skinning your fingers. Generally, you would take out the reducing ring in the router plate while changing bits, so you have a reasonable view of the button and the position of your fingers.
If the plate does not have a removable reducing ring, do what Charles and others recommend, take the router and plate out, change bits, and drop back into place. You will have to do that, as it will not be generally possible to use a spanner above the table.
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post #47 of 60 (permalink) Old 10-16-2019, 05:10 AM
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The speed control is a thornier matter. For the 1600, I doubt that it would be necessary to change the speed much - my oldest Hitachi is a single speed, and I only really need to reduce speed on the larger routers, when using large diameter bits - a bit of a strain on the Rt1600 anyway.
But for occasional needs, I have not found it too onerous to bend down, find the Speed control, and set the speed. On the chinese router, I have contemplated moving the speed control to the front of the table.
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post #48 of 60 (permalink) Old 10-16-2019, 07:15 PM
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@Biagio : Oh, I've already done that for the Makita, but it had a lock for the trigger, so it's not as bad as the Ryobi in that sense. It's plugged into a front-mounted switch I got with a cheap router table setup that suits trim routers only, as it was cheaper than buying the switching mechanism on its own. It also has no speed control, so one speed fits everything. One day I'll buy a speed controller for it perhaps, but for now the Makita in the table is working for me. The Ryobi is great as a handheld router and I love to use it. But I have been interested to see how Nicolas has been going, and maybe one day I'll need to replicate this, so it's always great to share
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post #49 of 60 (permalink) Old 10-18-2019, 05:14 AM
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Hello everyone and thank you for the suggestions :-)
@Biagio :
Like you, I'm going to adopt an 8mm screw.
The hole diameter of the adjustment rod was 13mm. I think I will place a metal tube of 12mm / thickness 1mm. I ordered a screw for 3D printer (diameter 8mm, with a thread of 2mm) which comes with a brass nut with fixing holes. The base of the nut is wide and I intend to file so that it matches the shape of the housing so it will be locked in rotation. I will see at this point if I have to add fixing screws.
The 8mm screw ends with a 5mm smooth tip and will be connected to a hexagonal socket screw through a coupler sold in the same shop.
For the toothed wheel, I think I'll just remove it and put it away with the adjustment rod in case I decide to change my mind someday :-).
@steve :
For trigger and speed control I was going to use a cable tie just like you. Currently I do not have enough knowledge to move the speed control to the front of the table or anything like that. However, as recommended by Biagio I will actually put a switch on the front of the table, and an emergency stop button at the hip or elbow. I watched a video about accidents and precautions to take and it was a little traumatized I admit LOL.
Very good idea the toggle clamp! It is exactly this kind of system that I thought to push the spindle lock button and I did not know that it was marketed :-).

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post #50 of 60 (permalink) Old 01-06-2020, 02:32 AM
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I am late to the party ... but I just "completed" my router table for my workmate ... it might address some queries above - so have a look and feel free to engage in chit chat.
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