For shop stands and cabinets, using regular, 5-7 layer, 3/4 ply, I'd skip the box joints and go to another kind of joint. If you use Baltic Birch, which has about 13 layers and no voids, you could use box joints, but I don't know whether you'd like seeing all the layers every other finger. For all ply cabinetry, consider using dados and rabbits, or even easier, pocket holes (with glue).
Pocket holes have to be drilled in places where they won't be seen, or filled in. They are plenty strong if installed every 5 inches or so. Make certain your saw blade is 90 to the table and the fence 90 to the blade, pocket holes will then pull your cabinet or stand square, and pocket holes do the same to 90 degree cuts to face frame rails and stiles.
Rabbit and dado construction is quite nice for cabinets as well, but you need to make certain they are held square during glue-up.
When you make tool stands, consider adding casters, two fixed on the back, 2 swivel with both wheel and swivel locks so you can prevent movement when in use. Put doors on all cabinets and stands, it will help keep sawdust from invading every nook and cranny.
I've built a lot of stands for my tools, every one with doors. I've used both the metonds (dados/rabbets, pocket holes) and all stands are ridgid after years of use. For no particular reason, I use spherical 1.25 inch knobs painted a very intense, high gloss Ferrari red--it's cheerful.
I also have the same jig, but most of my projects are BB ply these days. BTW, you could make the cabinet out of carefully selected pine, stained, it will look pretty nice. HD has some 1x4 by nearly an inch thickness. Pick nice pieces, joint or cut a flat edge, cut the other edge flat, and use them to glue up your panels. These have very small knots that stay tight, and the extra thickness lets you plane to even everything up. If you're fussy and lucky, you can find some clear pine that's straight, but you might have to visit several Orange stores to find the number of pieces you need. I generally make face frames from nice straight pieces of hardwood. Again, pick the pieces carefully, or even cut them out from straight, flat sections of larger pieces. Then box joints make sense, and you can enjoy using that great jig-just buy enough wood so you can make some test joints to tune the jig.
Stick's admonitions apply.
The more I do, the less I accomplish.