Ok, building a table, but... - Page 2 - Router Forums
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post #11 of 60 (permalink) Old 01-06-2019, 09:45 PM Thread Starter
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Default Ah yes, but.....

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Originally Posted by TenGees View Post
Keep in mind that if you screw your router to the wood, you'll affect how deep you can cut. Most plates are somewhere around 3/8 inch (~10mm) and if you remove the router base-plate there is hardly any difference in depth of cut. As Biagio said, two layers might be a solution if depth of cut matters to you.

Hey Paul, thank you.

Depth of cut is always important, and I'd like to make sure I don't cut too much functionality out. I think the router in question has a reasonably good depth as part of its setup (untested), but I do worry mostly about the weight of it.
I wasn't sure whether I wanted to take some of the top material out to make it thinner or not, but I do know where I can get a decent set of collet extensions if I think I have a depth issue.


Mind you, I'm happy to be guided on what everyone thinks of those for most general use. I'm not up to using 30mm bits as yet, and I'm not sure I'd want a fancy bit in an extension on the table.....
Experiences welcome
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post #12 of 60 (permalink) Old 01-06-2019, 09:55 PM Thread Starter
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Yup, a router plate is a very good idea. With a 2 layer table, cut the top opening to fit the plate, the bottom layer smaller to form a ridge on which the plate sits. Put screws or Kreg levelers in place to raise and level the plate with the top and you're done. You can probably find a plate pre drilled for your router, which means you'll likely be able to use the stock nuts to hold it in place. Aluminum plates are a better choice for a heavy router, but you can use phenolic if you remove the router and plate for storage. Left in the table, phenolic (plastic) plates can sag over time. The leveler screws are about $19 a set on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/PRS3040-Preci...SIN=B000VRML54

Router plates run in the $30 range, https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...m+router+plate Order one pre drilled for your router if you can.

I think phenolic plates are about 10 less and I think you can get them pre drilled as well. Mine have been aluminum.

Second illustration shows how the 2 layer plate fits, plus a different kind of leveling screw setup. Pretty easy to make.


Thanks Tom. I have seen the Kreg and generic aluminium plates and their availability. Kreg plates seem to be more than double that price in Aussie dollars, whereas the generic aluminium plates vary from around $30AUD upwards and may or may not include rings. Funny enough I've seen some phenolic plates more expensive than aluminium!
Most of the sellers on EBay don't seem to have the details of the predrilled holes to check against, but I may ask a couple of them if I go down this path.
We seem to have less options over here than what you all have in the larger market space. We seem to still be playing catch-up on thsi side of the world more often than not.

I'm beginning to lean toward using a plate just because of the weight and to get the cut depth.
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post #13 of 60 (permalink) Old 01-06-2019, 10:01 PM Thread Starter
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Default Using an insert?

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Originally Posted by Cherryville Chuck View Post
I've never screwed a router to a table yet and neither have many others. Gravity works perfectly well to hold it down and once you have a piece of wood over it there is even less chance of it moving. You just need to machine the opening to be a close fit to prevent any side to side movement. This allows you to take the router out of the table to change bits which makes that job much easier. I also don't leave the router in the table hanging from the plate which reduces the possibility of it sagging.

Hi Chuck, thanks for that, I presume from what you've written you're referring to using a plate in a table which the router is screwed to rather than directly to a wooden table surface which I was initially referring to.

I do take your point about leaving the router and plate in situ, although I would expect if the material for the top was suitably strengthened, such as Biagio suggested, this should be less of an issue.

All in all this is a good learning curve, and I really appreciate all contributions, thanks folks.
Love this forum.
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post #14 of 60 (permalink) Old 01-07-2019, 03:02 AM
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Hi Steve,good to have you back again. I purchased the Kreg phenolic plate some time back & it cost $76.00.If you also go this route,make sure to follow instructions re using a Forstner bit to drill out the corners for the insert plate prior to routing the sides & ends.You will see what I mean when you read the instructions. Best wishes, James jj777746.
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post #15 of 60 (permalink) Old 01-07-2019, 05:51 AM
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In my experience the screws are strong enough. You want them as long as necessary to hold the router but if the wood is strong then they will hold the router. Don't forget that the router is held to a plate with the screws.
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post #16 of 60 (permalink) Old 01-07-2019, 10:11 PM Thread Starter
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Default Makes sense

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In my experience the screws are strong enough. You want them as long as necessary to hold the router but if the wood is strong then they will hold the router. Don't forget that the router is held to a plate with the screws.
Thanks Art. I agree, although I wonder if the wood would slog out over time, adding to the vibration and inaccuracy.
I'm probably going to order a plate off eBay for cheap and have a crack. If I don't get it right, I've learned some new things, and I can always go back to the wood.
Having said that, I might try the wood out while waiting for delivery just for fun

That way I can start getting comfortable before I really have to get down to business!
Mrs Fizgig has a few projects in mind (buffet, games storage cabinet, coffee table for starters) to go with the kitchen table I made last year.

Since she's progressing in her interior design course, there have already started to be shifts in how the house is set up, plus moving to a new rental, so it's an excuse to change things.....
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post #17 of 60 (permalink) Old 01-08-2019, 01:57 AM
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I have the same router and wondered if screwing it to the top plate would be strong enough, the screws are only M4 countersunk. So I went the other way and got some 12mm gal round bar (from Bunnings) and fed two lengths through where the guide goes, I even use those thumb screws to hold them tightly in place. If you make a table with cross pieces they can be pretty thick (70mm x 35mm), then rout 12mm wide and little deeper slots that coincide with the 12mm bar in the router. The router then sits with the bar in these slots level with the top of the cross supports in your table. You can screw the top plate over the top of this so you can remove the router, the router cannot move and the top of the table can't sag using this method.

You can easily remove the springs and the handles from this router.
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post #18 of 60 (permalink) Old 01-08-2019, 02:16 AM
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The M4 screws should be okay. My Hitachis are using M5s which aren't much bigger. You could go with a wooden insert for starters. I would go with a good quality ply of about 12mm. That would be only about 2 mm thicker than most plates and 4 thicker than the thinnest plates. Lots of us have just screwed a router to a piece of ply for a top and used a 2 x 4 with a cutout for a fence when we needed something quick.
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post #19 of 60 (permalink) Old 01-08-2019, 04:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cherryville Chuck View Post
The M4 screws should be okay. My Hitachis are using M5s which aren't much bigger. You could go with a wooden insert for starters. I would go with a good quality ply of about 12mm. That would be only about 2 mm thicker than most plates and 4 thicker than the thinnest plates. Lots of us have just screwed a router to a piece of ply for a top and used a 2 x 4 with a cutout for a fence when we needed something quick.
My way is probably a little over the top, but when you start up the Makita it gives a bit of a kick as there's no soft start, using my method its as solid as a rock. The other good thing about this method is that you can use a thinner top without sacrificing strength.

Tight fisted old so-and-so!

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post #20 of 60 (permalink) Old 01-08-2019, 07:13 PM Thread Starter
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Default Good to be back

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Hi Steve,good to have you back again. I purchased the Kreg phenolic plate some time back & it cost $76.00.If you also go this route,make sure to follow instructions re using a Forstner bit to drill out the corners for the insert plate prior to routing the sides & ends.You will see what I mean when you read the instructions. Best wishes, James jj777746.
Thanks James, good to be back online with the community again. It's great and I feel a good camaraderie here.
Sadly I don't have forstner bits in my repertoire yet, that's on the "must purchase" list

Harrysin posted an interesting idea in a lobby post he started (for me) about mounting a plate in a table, that uses the item you want the thickness of to set the router depth. Very interesting idea, that could also be useful.

Oh, I better go buy a flush cut bit with the bearing near the shaft (top or bottom depending on who you talk to), otherwise I might have fun templating...
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