Ok, building a table, but... - Page 3 - Router Forums
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post #21 of 60 (permalink) Old 01-09-2019, 09:02 PM Thread Starter
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So I bought an aluminium plate from a seller in Sydney, should arrive Monday
I bought my flush trim bit with the bearing as required.

And my wife was kind enough to push me to buy the wood to actually make the table base, and not just the cheapest crappiest wood either.
Hoping to put the base together over the weekend, and sort the top out early next week.

As I have two melamine covered pieces of chipboard, I guess I better get gluing them together. But I was wondering, should I cut a hole out of the bottom one before I do anything, or glue them and do the whole thing in one go?

Any thoughts?
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post #22 of 60 (permalink) Old 01-11-2019, 01:13 AM
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I think I'd cut the two holes separately, the bottom one smaller than the top so you have a shelf to keep the plate from falling through as you move it in and out of the table (that WILL happen). You can even pre drill holes in the bottom ledge and feed some screws up through that layer. Flatten or remove the tips and use them to adjust the plate flush with the top. Apply the $20 you save on the Kreg levelers to a other uses. Pre drill all holes on the underside of your melamine coated low density fiber board. It is not very strong. If it's coated on both sides, you probably won't be able to glue it without finding some sort of plastic compatible glue. Contact cement might work, but after it dried, the instant you press the two coated sides together, they cannot be moved. So you need to aligh them carefully before you let them touch. Use some small dowels or sticks to keep them apart until they're aligned, then, holding them apart, remove the sticks on one side and lower the top down so the edges stick. Use your fingers to keep corners and edge aligned. Once the edge is stuck, remove the other dowels or sticks and lower the top. Once they touch, they're NEVER going to come apart.

If you can, use a roller to apply the contact cement as evenly as you can. Let it dry completely. You probably won't need to use screws to hold the two pieces together, which will make it easier to cut dodos for T-Track in the future.

Sounds like you are going to have a pretty neat table. And congratulations on having a spouse who insisted you get the good stuff. My Jean is that way too.

I've attached pictures of shop made fences. Not too difficult to make something that lets you pull the sawdust out at the bit. The picture of the solid fence is really nice and simple to make, and good dust collection. Notice the advanced clamping device.
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post #23 of 60 (permalink) Old 01-11-2019, 04:17 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Tom, really appreciate all of that info!

Started on the to today. Both pieces for the top have melamine on both sides, which is good and bad. Good from a stiffness perspective, but as you rightly point out, gluing could be a challenge. I have some liquid nails I think might do the job, but I may test it first

I've cut out the top. I did a smaller hole on the bottom as suggested, just small enough to support the top with the space for the plate routed out - that way it gives it some more strength with the weight of the router and plate.

I've attached a photo of the plate resting in the top, pre-gluing. Routing that was actually good fun.

I'm a little concerned, in that the back side is not flat, but the feeding edge is, and so is the trailing edge. Front edge slightly raised also. Problem I've got I think is that despite my best efforts the melamine boards may not be as straight as I thought they were.

Nonetheless, if I clamp them in a good fashion when I glue them, then hopefully this helps. Being melamine coated I'm not confident.
But still, it's only my first table.

I'll start the table base assembly tomorrow.
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post #24 of 60 (permalink) Old 01-11-2019, 08:42 AM
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Are you saying the boards are melamine coated on the backside, the side you want to glue?
Rubber cement will work (HDPL type), and I'm pretty sure construction adhesive is also OK, but my experience with carpenter's glue has been really bad with melamine.
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post #25 of 60 (permalink) Old 01-11-2019, 09:34 PM Thread Starter
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Default Yes, both sides are melamine

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Are you saying the boards are melamine coated on the backside, the side you want to glue?
Rubber cement will work (HDPL type), and I'm pretty sure construction adhesive is also OK, but my experience with carpenter's glue has been really bad with melamine.
And I can confirm the liquid nails type construction glue I tested on two cutout scrap last night have adhered *really* well, so I'll use that to bond the two boards.

That should keep the boards safely together and provide a top that doesn't sag in a hurry.
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post #26 of 60 (permalink) Old 01-12-2019, 12:32 AM Thread Starter
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So, a little light sanding in a couple of spots, and I've got my plate pretty darn close to level I think. Progress is a good thing.
Meanwhile, I've been given an older scroll saw by some friends cleaning out their shed before doing house extensions. Been down and bought new blades for it, so we'll have to test it and see how well it goes. More interesting times!!
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post #27 of 60 (permalink) Old 01-12-2019, 01:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1fizgig View Post
So, a little light sanding in a couple of spots, and I've got my plate pretty darn close to level I think. Progress is a good thing.
Meanwhile, I've been given an older scroll saw by some friends cleaning out their shed before doing house extensions. Been down and bought new blades for it, so we'll have to test it and see how well it goes. More interesting times!!
I think I would have opted for putting screws below the plate instead . This way you could turn them to level the plate .
Or install those screw levellers from Kreg.

Looking forward to seeing your progress , thanks for sharing .

I bought an Incra table and never got around to building it . I will someday , and also build a table as your doing .
Personally from what I’ve learned here , I’d never buy a table again, and would much rather build one from scatch
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post #28 of 60 (permalink) Old 01-12-2019, 02:58 AM
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I had a discussion with a rep from the Franklin company that makes Titebond at a woodworking show once. They have a melamine glue and it will bond melamine to melamine but he said only over a short distance. The reason why is that the solvent (water in this case) can't escape or dry out. So two small pieces might work but that doesn't necessarily mean two large pieces will. If you insist on using two panels then I would press the two together and then pull them back apart and let the glue solvent flash off some before joining them back together.

I've made one or two tops out of melamine board but I only used one layer and had no issues with it but I put a good frame under it, including cross members as close to the router as feasible. This included grooves for t-track so where those grooves were was only 1/4" thick. That table sat in a shed and went from 40 above in the summer to -45 in the winter and over a period of 5 or 6 years during the time I had it and my son in law had it it stayed perfectly flat.
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post #29 of 60 (permalink) Old 01-12-2019, 04:06 AM Thread Starter
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Smile Well, I thought about it

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Originally Posted by RainMan 2.0 View Post
I think I would have opted for putting screws below the plate instead . This way you could turn them to level the plate .
Or install those screw levellers from Kreg.

Looking forward to seeing your progress , thanks for sharing .

I bought an Incra table and never got around to building it . I will someday , and also build a table as your doing .
Personally from what Iíve learned here , Iíd never buy a table again, and would much rather build one from scatch
But I figure I'd try it out as is first. I can always add screws or Kreg levellers if things aren't staying as good as I want. Next up is to sort out the fence. The one I had on the cheapie is a bit short in that the locking slides are where the plate is.

I either rout out some new holes, use clamps, or just make a new one outta lumber. Not sure what I'll do yet, still in the thought process. I glued the melamine this afternoon, so am expecting a rock-solid tabletop tomorrow

Legs to be framed up after that, top attached, power controls attached, then screw in the router and I should be all go!
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post #30 of 60 (permalink) Old 01-12-2019, 11:19 AM
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" I've been given an older scroll saw by some friends cleaning out their shed before doing house extensions"
-Steve

It's an older tool so you'll be doing yourself a huge favor by doing a serious cleaning and especially re-greasing inside the transmission housing.
Check the brushes for wear and thoroughly clean out the armature housing. Check the bearings to make sure they're running freely!
Last but really important is to readjust all the blade bearing parts; slop in the supporting parts ruins the accuracy of your cuts.
(Mine has an exposed roller bearing that needs to be cleaned and lubed fairly frequently or it develops a nasty wear groove in its outer surface.)
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