making a table, of sorts - Router Forums
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-10-2019, 03:56 PM Thread Starter
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Default making a table, of sorts

Decided to try my hand at making a router table top. I bought the Bosch plate, for the RA1181 table and a piece of melamine coated "shelving" from "L".

Outlined the opening and cut it, leaving a lip, then routed the lip to drop in the plate. Used a clamped straight edge to help stay straight. Well, it came out a bit oversize, so the plate can move a wee bit. Height is fine though.

I had been planning to just drop it in and let the weight of the router hold it. But, it will probably shift a bit as I work.

Wondering if it is best to just "hard mount" with some screws or attempt to use filler and some kind of release agent on the plate edges, to make a tighter fit? Short of that, I could fab up and glue in some "spacers" to tighten it up. Come to think, that might be a saner idea, as the filler, all else aside, is likely to loosen up over time and fall out.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-10-2019, 04:19 PM
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Joe; you could also enlarge the upper cutout portion (maybe up to an 1" bigger) and glue in 1 1/4' to 1 1/2' filler pieces, then re-rout the hole accurately. Leave the lower shoulder portion alone.
Rather than make the two side pieces exactly the right length, just make all the pieces maybe 4" -6" too long and just run them consecutively around the perimeter with only one end butted up squarely to the previous one...sort of pinwheel style. (Sorry if that doesn't make sense, Tom (DRT) has an illustration he posts occasionally. Stick does as well.)
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-10-2019, 04:20 PM
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...don't know why it didn't come up in the previous comment(?).

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-10-2019, 04:22 PM
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One of the nice things about making your own router table is, you can make whatever changes you want. Or, just make another. I'd go with the glued in spacers. Should work, and if not I'd make another table. My plate is homemade, 1/2" plywood, and the weight holds it in place, no problem.

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-10-2019, 04:28 PM
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-10-2019, 05:11 PM
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I’ve wondered about this myself . Thought about bondo , that plastic stuff for repairing dents in cars , but not really sure how it would work ?
I’m kind of ocd , so I’d most likely abandon it and start over like the two times


If you do it again , make a template and test it for accuracy on a scrap before doing the main cut

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Ok ,I never insulate

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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-10-2019, 05:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daninvan View Post
joe; you could also enlarge the upper cutout portion (maybe up to an 1" bigger) and glue in 1 1/4' to 1 1/2' filler pieces, then re-rout the hole accurately. Leave the lower shoulder portion alone.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wxxxbg8oao
rather than make the two side pieces exactly the right length, just make all the pieces maybe 4" -6" too long and just run them consecutively around the perimeter with only one end butted up squarely to the previous one...sort of pinwheel style. (sorry if that doesn't make sense, tom (drt) has an illustration he posts occasionally. Stick does as well.)

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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-10-2019, 05:54 PM
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Glue some shims in. Keep it simple.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-11-2019, 07:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joea View Post
Decided to try my hand at making a router table top. I bought the Bosch plate, for the RA1181 table and a piece of melamine coated "shelving" from "L".

Outlined the opening and cut it, leaving a lip, then routed the lip to drop in the plate. Used a clamped straight edge to help stay straight. Well, it came out a bit oversize, so the plate can move a wee bit. Height is fine though.

I had been planning to just drop it in and let the weight of the router hold it. But, it will probably shift a bit as I work.

Wondering if it is best to just "hard mount" with some screws or attempt to use filler and some kind of release agent on the plate edges, to make a tighter fit? Short of that, I could fab up and glue in some "spacers" to tighten it up. Come to think, that might be a saner idea, as the filler, all else aside, is likely to loosen up over time and fall out.
Using the melamine for the top leaves me to wonder with that being a particle board material should you use something to harden or support the lip where the router plate sits? Or does your table design already do that? If not I'd consider some hardwood frame underneath for additional support.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-11-2019, 08:09 AM
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I had the side to side concern when I built my table. I bought a phenolic top to use with my system and had a slight movement if I tried to move it. Concerned so much that I called Jess EM as the holes in the corner of the plate didn't line up with the holes in the top. I was advised that the weight of the motor would be more than enough to keep it stable and after trying a few cuts realized they were right. Guess I wasn't the 1st to ask the question. I guess it depends on how wide the gap is. If too large you could cut a few wood circles and screw to the bottom of the plate using off centered holes to work like a cam and mount a grooved block as a stop to wedge it lightly. But honestly, before doing anything I'd try a few scrap runs and see if it really matters.
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