The Router Workshop router table - Router Forums
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019, 08:25 AM Thread Starter
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Default The Router Workshop router table

Does anybody here have the dimensions for the Router Workshop router table? I would like to make one for my cabin’s pole barn. I could probably guesstimate from pictures but numbers would be better? I looked through their website but things are getting thin there since they stop airing their shows. Thanks.
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019, 10:30 AM
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@VintageMike

I've got the plans for the router table, but unfortunately, my shop is in a state of confusion so I can't get to them immediately - I'll try later today and I'll get back to you.

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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019, 11:27 AM
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Welcome Mike. We have a long running thread on router table builds that might have the info in there somewhere. https://www.routerforums.com/table-m...ml#post2011527

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019, 06:04 PM
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@VintageMike - found the plans and scanned a couple of pertinent pages - I only made the top portion, didn't make the base/cabinet.
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 08:15 AM
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Looking at the design above it doesn't look like the best set up. You should make the table long, mine is 4 feet. A short table makes it harder to control long boards like when you're making molding. Also, don't put the router at one end you need support on both ends. You should have feather boards on the table and fence and a miter slot in the table. Check out the link that Chuck mentioned and look at youtube. Above all don't buy one!!!
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 08:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgmine View Post
Looking at the design above it doesn't look like the best set up. You should make the table long, mine is 4 feet. A short table makes it harder to control long boards like when you're making molding. Also, don't put the router at one end you need support on both ends. You should have feather boards on the table and fence and a miter slot in the table. Check out the link that Chuck mentioned and look at youtube. Above all don't buy one!!!
Art - the Router Workshop boys used this table for years and had no issues. When I made mine, I moved the plate closer to the center of the table. I don't have a miter slot in the table as I've never needed one. If you use a slot, then you have to make sure your guide is perpendicular to the cutter. That's not necessary. When I set my fence I'm not concerned that it is exactly square - I just set it where I need it. Since the bit is spinning, it doesn't matter if the fence is square. My fence has adjustable faces, with a groove for feather boards.

I've used my table to make a rail and stile doors and never had a problem with the size of the table.

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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 10:53 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you much!! I appreciate it. Like I said, this us for my cabin. I don’t believe I would need anything bigger for a few small projects.
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 11:07 AM
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Thank you much!! I appreciate it. Like I said, this us for my cabin. I donít believe I would need anything bigger for a few small projects.
In case you wanted to see the table in real life - this is the one I built - nothing fancy but it just works

https://www.routerforums.com/table-m...ml#post1875498
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-12-2019, 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by vchiarelli View Post
Art - the Router Workshop boys used this table for years and had no issues. When I made mine, I moved the plate closer to the center of the table. I don't have a miter slot in the table as I've never needed one. If you use a slot, then you have to make sure your guide is perpendicular to the cutter. That's not necessary. When I set my fence I'm not concerned that it is exactly square - I just set it where I need it. Since the bit is spinning, it doesn't matter if the fence is square. My fence has adjustable faces, with a groove for feather boards.

I've used my table to make a rail and stile doors and never had a problem with the size of the table.
I understand but over the years I have come to appreciate my 4 x 2 foot table every time I am doing something even slightly large. I seldom use a router freehand and a table this size does it all for me. When I'm doing a 9 foot piece of molding is never drops or twists. To me, it's the same as trying to use a planer on a long board without supporting the outfeed. It doesn't take any more effort to build it longer so why not do it. As for the miter slot I use it all the time for feather boards as well a miter gauge when doing rail and stiles to keep the cut square. There is no way I would build a router table that couldn't hold feather boards on the fence and table.
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-12-2019, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by mgmine View Post
I understand but over the years I have come to appreciate my 4 x 2 foot table every time I am doing something even slightly large. I seldom use a router freehand and a table this size does it all for me. When I'm doing a 9 foot piece of molding is never drops or twists. To me, it's the same as trying to use a planer on a long board without supporting the outfeed. It doesn't take any more effort to build it longer so why not do it. As for the miter slot I use it all the time for feather boards as well a miter gauge when doing rail and stiles to keep the cut square. There is no way I would build a router table that couldn't hold feather boards on the fence and table.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VixjZ75IKiI
Art - I get what you're saying and that works for you. I just never found the need for a miter slot on the table. I use a push block when doing rail and style.
Check out this video at the 5:00 minute mark - that's the method I use. There are different ways of doing things, so we each pick the method that works FOR US.


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