Some table questions - Router Forums
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-05-2019, 01:01 PM Thread Starter
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Question Some table questions

I'm Just about to mount my router 1/2" old Makita.


Question One

is it preferred to remove the return base springs from the router.

Question Two

The Router I have has no speed control so I would like to install a speed controller and was think along the lines of this one
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07PRMC3...NsaWNrPXRydWU=

But it only supports RPM of 1400 with my router the RPM is 23000 so the model is unusable can any one recommend a controller with out breaking the bank account.


Question Three

is it best to change the router bit with router in table or remove it and then change the bit ??

James
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-05-2019, 01:21 PM
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The springs are to push the router up when hand held plunging. Upside down gravity takes care of that so it works better without the springs.

I think it's MCLS that sells some, but maybe Rockler and Grizzley do as well. They would be geared for using with a router if it came from them. I've heard that they can't be used with soft start but if you have no speed control then you probably don't have that either.

I much prefer to take the router and plate out when changing bits. It greatly simplified when the router is laying on it's side and you can adjust it easier to get access to the collet nut and either get the second wrench in or hold the column lock in place. As nlong as your plate fits snugly in the recess on the top you don't need to screw it down. Gravity works for that too.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-06-2019, 02:44 AM Thread Starter
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Charles big big thank you for your reply. Do you have a Link for MCLS speed controller please.

I under stand the logic behind your answer to question three but I would feel safer screwing it down if only in two places plus it would stop the plate moving when I use my scissor lift to alter the bit height.

James
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-06-2019, 07:45 AM
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James, I have three routers, with the plates screwed down (but with grub screws for leveling - needs a bit of give and take between the grub screws and the retaining screws when leveling). It is not that big a deal to change bits in the table - two of my routers have a shaft lock, the other needs two wrenches.
Especially with your router lift, remove the insert ring, raise the router so you can get to the collet, and you are good to go. Worst case, you might need one of those goose-necked collet wrenches. You will be re-setting the bit height anyway, unless you are using matched bits (like Desert Rat Tom recommends).
I bow to the greater experience of almost everybody here on the forum over my own, but I had a 3 1/4 hp router with a panel-raising bit strike a hard hidden knot, and dislodge the plate from the table-top, bending a substantial aluminium angle fence in the process. Since then, I have screwed the plates down.
The only real downside is if you decide to enclose the router for dust-catching purposes - there has been much debate on the merits thereof in the Forum. I am still a fence-sitter (pun unintentional).
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-06-2019, 09:10 AM
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I had a look on google for UK-sources of router speed control units and drew a blank. The so-called fan rheostats are just variable resistors - which is not what you want for a router - and almost all were 120V and 1.5kW max. If you were contemplating spending GBP25 on the [totally unsuitable Amazon motor control unit that you included a link to], then a pre-owned variable speed router may be a better proposition [preferably one that accepts 1/2" shank cutters]? I paid £50 [USD65 at the time] for a beautiful used ELU router that is a real thoroughbred. I have hardly used its speed control though, as I don't yet have any panel-raising aspirations. Like others on this forum, I have tended to collect a few routers according to need, rather than to expect one router to do it all.

The jury seems to be out on whether scissor lifts are a better alternative to a conventional crank, especially those you can adjust from above via the router plate.

I am about to find out whether totally enclosing the router to facilitate dust extraction causes the router to overheat, modifications to my table are work-in-progress as I write.

Oh, and yes, take the springs out when suspended in a table - and for the sake of completeness, I screw the plate down, for safety's sake.
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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-06-2019, 09:38 AM
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I've had my makita RP 1800 in a table for 4 years now. Never had nor needed nor wanted a speed control. I use all manner of bits perfectly safely.
I have just added a musclechuck to make bit changing faster, although to be honest, it was more that I wanted a new toy than anything else.
I have taken the springs out.
The plate is screwed down to the top, I have had a couple of "incidents" with knots that i'm sure would have lifted the table.
My router is enclosed with under table AND fence extraction.
I built a dirt cheap router lift from scrap wood and old bolts at a cost of about $2.00. its adjustable to finer measurements than a vernier gauge can measure.
Its not pretty, but I dont enter it in beauty contests, I use it to shape wood.
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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-06-2019, 09:39 AM
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The speed control you show is UNSUITABLE for a router, it's only rated at 400watts. I'm guessing that your Makita router may be a 3600 or 3612 which are 2400 watts. This one on Ebay looks more suitable, it even has a 13 amp ring main socket on the side. As stated, the springs MUST be removed and kept in a safe place.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Universa...AAAOSwOxRb1Rz~

Harry



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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-06-2019, 10:36 AM
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https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shop...=speed+control

Those who have had their plate move must not have had the fence over the plate at the time. I prefer using the fence even when I am using bearing guided bits. As a consequence I've never used a starting pin as the fence makes that unnecessary. I find I have better control starting a cut using the fence plus I can see if I'm getting the full profile cut or need another pass for cleanup. It's impossible for the plate to lift with the fence over it so I guess that explains my experience with not needing to screw my plate down.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-06-2019, 01:14 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you all for replying to my post
Harry you are correct Makita 3612 it's not so much a speed controller that's needed more of a soft start that's required.

It has one hell of a kick when it starts I've used it a lot for kitchen worktops.

The router has had it's springs removed now and support shafts oiled. I also have a question about the air vents being exposed to saw dust now as it's inverted is this going to be a problem I will have a Vac connected to the fence.


this is the speed controller I'm now looking at https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/220V-4000...e6d32d4499cdc4
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-06-2019, 07:18 PM
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The router pulls air from its top end so it will be flowing upward around the bit. Having DC air flow at the fence will improve the router's flow since it will create a low pressure air zone there which means less resistance for the flow going through the router to push against as it exits the casing.
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Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.

Last edited by Cherryville Chuck; 08-06-2019 at 07:21 PM.
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