router table top - Router Forums
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-08-2019, 09:12 PM Thread Starter
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Default router table top

Finally built my ultimate router table, NOW to make the top. a little leary?? to cut out for insert any one have easy way to do this?? also where to position miter track on the top. I have a nice 36 x 24 laminate top don't want to screw it up Thanks for your help. Haze
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-08-2019, 09:16 PM
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Make a cheap mdf template. Will post a pic in just a minute of what I do ever time.

Edit: added pics here.
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Last edited by BCR; 09-08-2019 at 09:24 PM.
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-08-2019, 09:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Haze5 View Post
Finally built my ultimate router table, NOW to make the top. a little leary?? to cut out for insert any one have easy way to do this?? also where to position miter track on the top. I have a nice 36 x 24 laminate top don't want to screw it up Thanks for your help. Haze
frame the plate...
use a top bearing mortise bit to cut the lip to hold the plate...
cut the interior unwanted portion out with a jig saw...

.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-08-2019, 09:28 PM
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You see one of my old tops, still has measurements on it. As well a new top, I am making for Incra setup. You see the template I use (it is plywood, because I have used it many times)

To make the template, just make the shape size you want, and use a jigsaw to cut out. Sand and shape it more if needed. Unless You mean something else, in tops?

The template using the PC guides, allows for exact copy, or undersized if needed.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-08-2019, 09:44 PM
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Lay the plate on the top and use a fine marker to draw the outline. remove the plate and draw a second line half an inch inside the first. Cut the opening with a jig saw to the size of the inside line. Lay the plate to fit the original, outside line. Lay boards out as illustrated around the plate (pix 1). Fold a couple of playing cards between the boards and the plate so it will be loose enough that you can get the plate out more easily. Clamp the boards in place, remove the plate (Pix 2). Use a mortising bit (Pix 3) with a bottom mounted bearing (on the shaft, not the tip) and set the depth just a little deeper than the thickness of the plate. Use the clamped boards as your guide and cut a lip for the plate to rest on.

You could drill small holes in the rebate and use screws up throught bottom to level the plate with the top, or take the easy way out and buy some Kreg levelers a(Pix 4).

Doesn't take that long to do and you don't need any special tools to do it. I choose a Woodpecker aluminum plate for my 3.25 hp table router (Pix 6). That plate is pricey, but it is extra thick, and has a twist lock setup for the inserts. No tiny screws to mess with and misplace. I don't bolt my plate down, the router's weight is sufficient.

You might want to get a mortising bit that matches the radius of the corners of the plate. The alternative for the Woodpecker plate was to purchase their mdf template, with will produce the proper corner curve. I think other plate makers also offer templates. You will likely only use it once.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-08-2019, 10:29 PM
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No miter track, unless for featherboards only.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-09-2019, 01:04 AM
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I don't use a miter track either. I either use a push block along the fence or I have a couple of jigs I use for doing half laps or the profile on the end of cabinet door rails that rides along the edge of the table instead. The construction allows me to clamp the piece I'm working on to the jig easily too. Feather boards can be made longer so that they can be clamped to the table rim or fence mounted to so you don't have to have that slot for those either.
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