Router table switch - Router Forums
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-10-2019, 05:06 AM Thread Starter
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Default Router table switch

While I'm building my router table, what about a paddle switch for Triton 3.25 Rockler has them around $40 but I get mail amazon on Powertech for a lot cheaper but which one?? Thanks Haze5
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-10-2019, 06:11 AM
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I got the cheap one on Amazon and it does the job. The one I got needs a deep box to install it in so now is a good time for you to install this so that it sits flush at the front of your table and not sticking out on the outside like mine is.
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-10-2019, 06:51 AM
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If you want the table to look fancy then that's the way to go, but if you want to simply turn your router on and off then just mount a box and turn it on with a regular switch. I have an outlet mounted on the inside of the cabinet controlled by a switch mounted on the outside of the cabinet. When I turn it on it turns on both a router and a shop vac.
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-10-2019, 06:58 AM
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go for high visibility in your face surface mount...
for safety...

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If only new layers hadn't been added....

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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-10-2019, 09:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stick486 View Post
go for high visibility in your face surface mount...
for safety...
And having one with a large surface that you can hit with your knee/leg makes it far safer should you need to hold on when something goes wrong.......Spend a few dollars and save yourself some grief and also check the specks and make sure it's designed to handle the full amperage of the router at the rated voltage.
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-10-2019, 10:19 AM
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I got the Powertec and it was a dud. I tried contacting Powertec twice to see if there was something I could do with it and they wouldn't even return my email to tell me to piss off. I tried every possible combination to make it work and even finally took it apart to see if something could be done. It would energize the circuit as long as I held the paddle down but would stop as soon as I released it. The magnet that was supposed to hold it down wasn't working. I'm not alone, reviews indicate that there is a small but predictable failure rate. Amazon refunded the money for the switch but not the $7-8 shipping charges. I recommend you buy one where you can walk in and return it for that reason.

As for a switch and where to mount it I went to a standard light switch in a dust proof enclosure, i.e. a plastic electrical box and that special cover. I mounted it on top of the plenum I built in my fence for dust control. Since I like to work from both sides of my table it couldn't be mounted on one side under the table. Since mounting it on the fence I've decided that I will never again mount one anywhere else. In my opinion this is the best and safest place you can put it.
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-10-2019, 10:33 AM
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I've seen switches mounted on posts at the back of some tools, but I prefer it where I can hit it with my leg. I don't like letting go of something if a problem occurs.
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-10-2019, 01:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Haze5 View Post
While I'm building my router table, what about a paddle switch for Triton 3.25 Rockler has them around $40 but I get mail amazon on Powertech for a lot cheaper but which one?? Thanks Haze5
I've read that the Triton routers have a "Euro-style" start switch that is not compatible with an external "On/Off' switch--any truth to that--or is it just another Internet myth?? Is it possible to lock the Triton in the "On" position so that it is totally controlled by the external paddle switch??
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-10-2019, 01:15 PM
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I considered that Tom but if you need both hands on the work then I figured I'm probably doing something I shouldn't or doing it a way I shouldn't. I don't trap boards which is one of those circumstances and the other that comes to mind is dropping a board on a spinning bit to make stopped cuts which is another practice I avoid even though lots of guys do it and say they do it successfully. It just seems too dangerous to me and stopped cuts can be accomplished with a handheld plunge router instead and there is virtually no risk that way.

So if you eliminate all those type operations then every other type allows you to move the piece away from the bit or up off the bit (as in grooves). I have used knee switches on other tools, my Unisaw has one for example, and I find myself searching for it sometimes as it isn't where I expected it. On any tool you use where you move in relation to it as you are using it there is always that possibility that it may not be exactly where you think it is. I can see the switch on my fence so I know exactly where to aim for and it takes less than a second to hit it.
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-10-2019, 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Cabbie41 View Post
I've read that the Triton routers have a "Euro-style" start switch that is not compatible with an external "On/Off' switch--any truth to that--or is it just another Internet myth?? Is it possible to lock the Triton in the "On" position so that it is totally controlled by the external paddle switch??
Cabbie
I wired my setup so that the fence mounted switch energizes the plug receptacle I mounted on the side of my router cabinet. The switch on my router stays ON in that situation which is probably what you would need to do too. I basically ran an extension cord wire out of the receptacle box that is about 15' long as my cabinet is on wheels so that I can move it out of the way when I don't need it. The hot wire goes through the box to the switch and back hot to the load side of the plug receptacle.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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