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post #21 of 56 (permalink) Old 11-13-2019, 01:05 PM
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What make of router did you buy?
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post #22 of 56 (permalink) Old 11-14-2019, 01:17 AM Thread Starter
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Well, real life keeps getting in the blimmin way but I have got the table top pretty much done. In the end I went with two layers of 18mm ply and it's actually come up okay. (Sometimes I surprise myself ) There are a couple of wobbles on the rebate for the insert plate that were caused by operator error as I was getting used to the router, but the plate is still a snug fit and doesn't move so I'll take that! Just the frame to get sorted now. Oh, and a fence, And some kind of dust confinement as well, did I say I'd forgotten just how much mess these things make

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What make of router did you buy?
I'm not sure where you are so this may not be that relevant to you as I'm UK based but I went for this router in the end.
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post #23 of 56 (permalink) Old 11-14-2019, 04:48 AM Thread Starter
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Another question has occurred to me. When you fit a router to the table, what do you do with the cable?? I don't really want to cut it short in case I ever want to take the router off of the table but coiling it up isn't good for the cable either as it may lead to the cable overheating.

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post #24 of 56 (permalink) Old 11-21-2019, 09:18 AM
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Dont overthink it. A couple of loose coils zip strapped together will never cause a problem.20 foot of cable tightly wrapped is not a good thing.

Dont cut the cable short, there will always be an "upgrade" in your future.
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post #25 of 56 (permalink) Old 11-21-2019, 11:45 AM
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I have a melamine coated outfeed table that stays dead flat because I used hand-planed flat trusses to support it from underneath. I used 1x3, drilled deep holes so the 1 1/2 inch screws penetrated about 1/2 inch into the melamine. I think trusses would do the trick for you.

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post #26 of 56 (permalink) Old 11-21-2019, 11:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr happymoose View Post
Another question has occurred to me. When you fit a router to the table, what do you do with the cable?? I don't really want to cut it short in case I ever want to take the router off of the table but coiling it up isn't good for the cable either as it may lead to the cable overheating.
You are unlikely ever to use the router long enough to have it heat up. Your breaker would likely cut it off long before there was any danger of that happening. Make a loose coil and hang it under the table, out of the way. You want an on/off safety switch you can bump off with your thigh. If something goes wrong while you're cutting something, you don't want to have to take your hands off the workpiece to hit the off switch.

https://www.amazon.com/POWERTEC-7100...s%2C212&sr=8-8
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post #27 of 56 (permalink) Old 11-21-2019, 12:00 PM
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...There are a couple of wobbles on the rebate for the insert plate that were caused by operator error as I was getting used to the router, but the plate is still a snug fit and doesn't move so I'll take that!
The Kreg levelers in pix are a good way to handle adjusting the plate height so it lines up perfectly with the top. I think they're about $20 U.S. for a set of four. Easy to add on as well.
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post #28 of 56 (permalink) Old 11-21-2019, 12:31 PM
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@ Mr happymoose The fence is not a big deal. You want it first of all to be very flat across the front where your work piece moves against it.

Ideally you would want to have an opening wide enough for the bit to operate in. You can do this in a number of ways, including having a couple of interchangeable front pieces you can put on with different size openings. Or you can make a fancy one with a sliding pair of front surfaces you can adjust to any width. The first choice is easiest

Ability to easily clamp it to the table. Many options, but the easiest is to make an L shaped fence, a vertical fence and horizontal base that you can clamp to the base. Generally, you have one end of the fence have a pivot point so it stays pretty much in place, then the other end so you can move it forward and back easily to adjust the fence to the bit. If you have the ability to cut very square pieces, you can glue 4-6 triangle pieces tie the two peices together.

Dust handling and collection: Lots of ways to do this. Attach a box behind the fence where the bit sits and put a hole in it the right size to fit you DC hose (see pix of shop made port). Most hoses have long plastic nozzles that will stay in place well.

You can also purchase a DC attachment (see picture of commercial model)

You should cut a small bevel across the bottom of your fence front (1/8th inch) so the dust as you cut has a way to escape. Dust can build up under your workpiece and cause misalignment on assembly, so also brush the sawdust up before every cut.

Under table dust extraction. This is a complex topic, but essentially you want a box for the sawdust to fall into. You can attach a DC hose to the box. You must allow air into this box so the air flow will pick it up and blow it out.

Stick has also recommended something I really like, which is to add a snorkle, to the bottom of the router so it is pulling clean air in, across the router. This will help keep sawdust from being sucked into the router and gumming up the works over time.

Finally, a safety item. This is a bit of a challenge to make for someone brand new, but you might also want a safety shield as shown. This involves Ttrack as shown, which is not really hard to do, but may seem daunting to someone new to routers.

You can also put Ttrack on each side of the table, running vertically, near the edge, this will allow you to use a knob with T bolts instead of clamps--nice but not necessary.

As usual, the pictures loaded in reverse order.
Pix one is a basic fence with DC port and a fixed opening
Pix two is the safety shield with the Ttrack showing on the top of the fence front. It also shows the movable split front. Star knobs on the back are in slots you cut with a router in the fixed part of the fence. Star knobs are very convenient. You can use T nuts or countesink tapered end bolts to keep the front surface flat. Looks complicated, but is easily done on the router.
Pix three is a simple shop made dust extraction port.
Pix four is a commercial dust extraction port. You can find these on Amazon or any of the woodworking stores online.
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post #29 of 56 (permalink) Old 11-22-2019, 04:30 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunnybob View Post
Dont overthink it. A couple of loose coils zip strapped together will never cause a problem.20 foot of cable tightly wrapped is not a good thing.

Dont cut the cable short, there will always be an "upgrade" in your future.
Having an electrical/electronic background I've personally seen a 'couple of loose coils' have exactly this problem to the point where they melted and actually started burning. While admittedly unlikely in this case, that's something I'd like to avoid I'm not going to cut the cable short as at some point I'm bound to want to use the router free hand and it would also invalidate the warranty.

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Thanks for all that info, it's much appreciated. The insert plate isn't wobbling at all and (Especially once I've given the top a quick rub down for finishing) is probably just half a mil low. I have some shim stock of various kinds that I think will do for now. I chose my words poorly as the 'wobble' I was referring too are a few spots around the edge where the side of the rebate didn't quite follow the line. The insert plats still sits flat and solid without any movement though so it's really just a cosmetic thing. I do have those adjusters bookmarked for future reference though.

I think I'm going to go with something like this for my fence although I must admit I hadn't given much (Well, if I'm totally honest, none at all) thought to a safety shield. I have no T track but I do have some acrylic sheet I can machine and bend so may have to get a little creative with that and I've been looking at exactly that NVR switch as well. I think that I'm going to have to add a socket round the back of the table with the switch wired to it from the front. That way I can easily change the router if I have to and it will help keep all the cable out of the way.

With regards to DC, I guess I had hoped that the vast majority would be taken up by the fence extraction port and I hadn't really decided what to do about boxing in the router. I do like the idea of boxing it in and leaving the bottom sticking out for fresh air though. Just how much of an issue are dust and chips getting under the table?

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post #30 of 56 (permalink) Old 11-22-2019, 06:01 AM
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A LOT of dust and chips under the table. you will need a box.

Theres a lot of talk about a router cooling fan picking up the dust in the under box and forcing it into the router bearings. If that is a concern, all you have to do is find a piece of hose big enough to fit over the end of your router, and cut a hole underneath it so the router is sucking fresh air from below the box.

I've also seen my share of electrical horrors,, but I cant see how two or at most three loops of good condition mains cable swinging in the breeze can be any danger.
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