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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-16-2019, 09:56 AM Thread Starter
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Well, I got a couple of projects out of the way (As well as a couple started that weren't exactly planned ) and I've started on my router table. I successfully managed to drill some mounting holes in the insert plate without messing it up and I cleaned up the threads in the router base as well.

One way in which I think that buying a cheaper router may be biting me in the bum is those mounting holes. They're only M4 x 0.7 threads in cast aluminium, the threads aren't great and I'm a bit wary of hanging the router off of them entirely. I do have room to drill some more holes in the insert plate and add a couple of straps clamping the router base to the insert plate and taking the vertical force off of those four screws.

Does that sound like a sensible idea or total overkill??
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-17-2019, 06:59 AM
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Use threadlock on the bolts to stop them vibrating loose.

I dont see any problem supporting the router with those bolts. If they were used to hold a bracket to the ceiling you could easily swing on them all day without them breaking.

What make of router did you buy?
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-17-2019, 08:49 AM
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Hi Jon, I am with Bob on that one. No point drilling more holes - if you are really worried, use longer bolts and lock with nylock nuts under the router base. You could even use high-tensile bolts, if you could find that size, but overkill.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-17-2019, 09:51 AM
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I also wouldn't worry. I think M4 is about average for all routers. The worn holes might prove to be a problem in the future. Rather that drilling them larger if they strip I think I would just drill them through and use a longer bolt with a nut on the top side of the base. Bob's idea of using a thread compound would help if the threads are worn but use the type that is just to keep them from vibrating loose and not the actual thread locking type. In Loctite brand it would be the blue colored one.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-17-2019, 10:35 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by sunnybob View Post
Use threadlock on the bolts to stop them vibrating loose.

I dont see any problem supporting the router with those bolts. If they were used to hold a bracket to the ceiling you could easily swing on them all day without them breaking.

What make of router did you buy?
Not sure I'd want to swing my bulk on four M4 screws on a bracket on the ceiling The router is an own brand router from a DIY/building company this side of the pond called Wickes - https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Mult...500W/p/150411#

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Hi Jon, I am with Bob on that one. No point drilling more holes - if you are really worried, use longer bolts and lock with nylock nuts under the router base. You could even use high-tensile bolts, if you could find that size, but overkill.
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I also wouldn't worry. I think M4 is about average for all routers. The worn holes might prove to be a problem in the future. Rather that drilling them larger if they strip I think I would just drill them through and use a longer bolt with a nut on the top side of the base. Bob's idea of using a thread compound would help if the threads are worn but use the type that is just to keep them from vibrating loose and not the actual thread locking type. In Loctite brand it would be the blue colored one.
It's not so much the screws themselves I'm concerned about as the threads in the router plate which are not great to begin with (I had to tap them properly to even take the M4 screws, the plastic plate that was on the router had been fitted with Taptite screws ) and are in a relatively thin section cast aluminium. I don't really want to drill right the way through just yet as that will totally invalidate the warranty for the router although that is always an option in the future. I'd definitely going to be using some form of thread lock whatever I do.

I must admit, coming from an engineering background I'm surprised that, given the forces involved, this is considered acceptable to hang a router on but I know very little about routers so I'm always open to advice from those more experienced than me. I'll leave it as it is for now and just monitor it carefully. If it looks like things are loosening up, I can always beef it up later.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-17-2019, 11:26 AM
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...I'll leave it as it is for now and just monitor it carefully. If it looks like things are loosening up, I can always beef it up later.
Sounds like the best approach to me. Because you can doesn't always mean you should do something.

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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-17-2019, 01:45 PM
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The bolts only have to take the vertical weight of the router.
All torque is sideways to the screws.
As an engineer, you can work out how much torque force is required to shear all 4 bolts simultaneously, I can guarantee its a damn sight more than that router produces.
I'm English by the way (although an ex-pat), and am fully aware of wickes. In fact my plastic garden shed came from them a dozen years ago and its still fit for purpose (lol)
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-17-2019, 03:19 PM Thread Starter
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The bolts only have to take the vertical weight of the router.
All torque is sideways to the screws.
As an engineer, you can work out how much torque force is required to shear all 4 bolts simultaneously, I can guarantee its a damn sight more than that router produces.
I'm English by the way (although an ex-pat), and am fully aware of wickes. In fact my plastic garden shed came from them a dozen years ago and its still fit for purpose (lol)
Glad to hear that some Wickes stuff is good LOL!! The screws shearing isn't concerning me, it's the threads in the cast aluminium that worry me, especially as, after having Taptite screws fitted they're not in the best of condition.

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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-17-2019, 03:23 PM
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Can you tap the holes out to m5 or m6 to improve the holding power?
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-17-2019, 11:34 PM
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Go with it. You have nothing to lose. If the router falls off under the table you take it back and replace it.
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