Table saw extension input - Page 3 - Router Forums
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post #21 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-02-2019, 12:35 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Cherryville Chuck View Post
Just a word to the wise Steve. We've had other metal workers come and saw them get frustrated with not being able to machine wood to the tolerances like they were accustomed to with metal. This frustrated some of them greatly and may have led them to give up on woodworking. You might machine something in wood to a tolerance of a few thou today but when you check it tomorrow it won't be close. That's because wood changes dimensions with humidity even more than metal changes with temperature. I just wanted to point that out to you as your last comments imply you might be headed down that road.
Thank you for the advice. I am totally 100% with you. I wondered why some guys get so worked up about thousandth accuracy on their fence or ?? part. I'm in the Midwest. Our wood floor expands enough you better not fit it tight during install.
I machined the edges of the table to ensure (hopefully anyway)I didn't have to shim the table to flat. That is surely a fix... but it just seems best to have to solid surfaces, square to one another, bolted solid... not bolted with shims, paper, etc...
I really do appreciate the input.
I will upload a pic from the phone in a minute of the stand... in progress.
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post #22 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-02-2019, 12:50 AM Thread Starter
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So, here we go. This is the back. It is almost ok...The triangulated area is to support the extension table. I just tossed the jack screw in from the grizzly table to show what it will look like. The load from the table weight is transferred to the base directly below the saw. This means the total base, 5' wide can flex if floor is uneven, and it will not affect the router table height (in relation to the saw itself). IF I only used jacks straight up at the corners, if the base flexed or twisted due to floor, the table height would also change. I don't explain stuff well.. I hope it makes sense.
I want the surface to be as close as it can be... but it is not a cnc mill....
Hope to finish up prep work on the base tomorrow, prime, mount saw permanently, and start tearing up some stuff.

Background... I am a country boy. One of grandpa's jobs was a cooper. Other grandpa played with wood working too. I have done a fair amount of construction for a guy who isn't a carpenter. Buddies all in the trades, so I have a pretty varied background. I am not implying I am an expert... but I am an experienced new guy. HA
I just have more free time now days. When I work on a tool, piece of equipment, etc., I fix all of it. I don't want to have to work on anything every time I go to use it. So, for me, being picky as I say, is just a proper fix, repair, etc. It makes life easier down the road.
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post #23 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-08-2019, 08:39 AM
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Steve: That is a nice bit of fabricating. Looks like a motorcycle or snowmobile lift. I mig'ed together my welding table when I first got the Lincoln180 in order to practice. My background is jack of all trades/car audio install unlike real woodworker, so I totally appreciate your position and inclinations.

Whenever I get at fixing anything I truly attempt to fix everything once and be done. Nothing more frustrating than having to repair something 2 or 3 times, especially when it delays the job/project that was actually on the docket.

The precision aspect of woodworking vs metal is noteworthy, but still a better perspective than coming from construction carpentry where 1/8" is ok, lol. I use a lot of MDF because of it's inherent stiffness, dimensional stability, tight tolerance machinability and density. Eventually I'll be using real wood, once the car is finished and the shop is fully setup, likely 2022 lol.
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post #24 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-08-2019, 09:30 AM Thread Starter
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Well, here are pics of router table v1. It looked nice. I was happy with the stand. Not happy with the layout. The table saw layout didn't flow. I know... stupid... but solid cast table saw top, open extension, solid cast router table just bothered me... so I cut it apart and shortened the extension side. Moved the extension to the left side. Now, I am usijg it a couple of days... to see if I like it before adding brace and priming again.
Stay tuned!
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post #25 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-08-2019, 09:31 AM Thread Starter
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Oh, I am probably going to cut off the excess fence rail too... on the right side. I don't do big stuff. If I do, I will just kick myself in the ass then.
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post #26 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-08-2019, 10:02 AM
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Before you cut off the fence rail, I have never liked web table extensions, because I have had chunks of wood or splinters on the wood being cut, jam in them and cause feeding problems. Also because I have pinched my fingers in the web when feeding work across them. I would have put the web extension on the left of the saw and used a solid extension, even if I had to make it from wood, in the center between the saw table and router table.

You might want to try using your saw in the present configuration before cutting the rails, and then decide for yourself if the webbed table causes problems for you. Then, if it does, either move it or replace it. I could live with it on the left end of the saw, but not where you have it located now.

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post #27 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-08-2019, 10:31 AM Thread Starter
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I will heed your advice before butchering the rails. I have the saw set back up with the webbed extension on the left. I will move the rails to align with the saw front... and see.
I will also build more than the 2 brackets per rail included with the fence. It just seems as more support if aligned, cannot hurt. Ties everything together more..... and I can build some bad a** brackets from aluminum that look super cool! Maybe even a spot for a much used tool with a bracket.
Thanks
Steve

Last edited by wagspe208; 11-08-2019 at 10:35 AM.
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post #28 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-16-2019, 08:16 PM Thread Starter
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Mr. Vega, meet Mr. Wixey. You two should be more closely associated.
I butchered out a few brackets to do just that. They are still in trial fit/ mock up right now. I will detail them to look appropriate after dimensions are set.
The new brackets will be threaded 1/4 20 (probably) for the wixey rail. I will drill the wixey rail piece to match up with the center lines of the new brackets. I will use an allen head cap screw through the wixey rail into the new bracket.
I may mill the bottom of the new bracket slightly (only where the wixey rail sits)…. reasoning... the vega fence has a steel piece in it already. It is the pivot pin for the locking handle. Guess what?? A magnet will stick to steel. The wixey uses a magnet to stick to their bracket, which could be bolted on... eliminate unsightly clutter!
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Last edited by wagspe208; 11-16-2019 at 08:22 PM.
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post #29 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-28-2019, 08:02 AM Thread Starter
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Just a little update for you all. I was working on a box for my sharpening diamond things... I was cutting slots, and spacing them apart, then another slot... I didn't want to go 3/8, or 5/16, I wanted in between, then the math... made my head hurt, and I am great with math... so I decided to add a wixey. I did not like how all the brackets were piggy backed on each other. Just looks crappy. Stuff hanging all over the place, only 2 brackets for the front rail, bolts different sizes... just a cluster f.....
So, I ade 4 brackets for the front rail, the wixey rail mounts to these directly, instead of via another bracket. The DRO unit magnet aligns with the steel piece in the vega fence... BINGO. Simple, smooth, done.
Oh, I detailed the brackets and painted them black to match the vega fence, contrasts with the front rail... sweet!
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post #30 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-28-2019, 08:06 AM Thread Starter
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oops... psted twice... sorry..
Now, if I can just get this project finished up... I can turn wood into dust.
PM100 resto, resurface the table slides, resurface the table, dry film lube on everything that would get grease or oil... keeps from attracting dust. Paint, etc.
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