Table saw extension input
So, I have my grandpas 113.27520 table saw. From the 50's or 60's. I also have his craftsman/ king seeley 103.20660 jointer. It is from the 50's also... I like old stuff. It was family. It was built to last. I went through the jointer, installed a shelix head, it is awesome! Looks better than new. Cuts great. Straight as an arrow.
OK... the table saw was in good shape, just needed a tuneup and a fence. The old fences sucked. So, I checked blade runout, good, aligned blade, installed a forrest blade, and bought a vega pro 40 fence. On that fence, I installed the jessem clear cut stock guides. The rollers are awesome. They mount on a T track, so they are adjustable (as you all know).
To the point. The saw has one 10" extension. (mounted on the right side) I am planning on putting another 10" extension on the left side. If I add a 16" ish router table to the existing 10", that puts me near the end of my vega pro 40. The table is plenty big for my needs. I have made a rigid steel frame on wheels the saw is mounted on. So, the extensions will be supported with adjustable rods (jacks if you wish) to keep the table level, and support the weight.
So, I'd have a 10" extension on the left side, the main table, 10" extension on the right side, then my router table.
Question is... I really only want the table. I don't want a fence. The vega fence is straight. I can put a sacrificial strip on it if I am doing something requiring that. The jessem rollers could be slid off the track, turned 180*, then they roll the right way to feed the router. (does that make sense? just slide them off the T track, rotate, then go). If, in the future, I think I need a more "fancy fence". I can always buy one. The fences with most tables are basic, and fair at best.
I have a triton router, so I do not need a router lift either.
I am contemplating a table with only the insert ring. The other option is a regular table cut out for the lift plate, and spending another 70 to 100 for a plate, or make my own.
I was on the fence between the saw stop table only at 264 ish, or the bench dog table. Then I saw the grizzly with no insert plate, only the cutter insert.
The saw stop is 265, (16 x 27") then I need to buy or make an insert plate. Free shipping
The bench dog (16x27) is 349, fence no plate, or 369, fence and plate. I didn't see an option for table only, nothing else. PLUS rockler will charge me another 20 shipping... even if I ship to store... that just aggravates me. They have a truck show u[ every damn week or so.
The grizzly has only an insert ring, 18"x27", no fence. It is 328 with free shipping. This seems like the most reasonable option for me. The sawstop will be 365 with plate... or more. The rockler is at the same 360+.
So, what do you think? I am not worried about having to drill holes to match up stuff. I am a metal guy.. so no big deal.
My only concern is future needs. IF I buy the grizzly, and down the road I think I need a lift instead of the triton adjustment, another table would be the only option.
I am just an occasional hack. I like metal/ welding/ machining more.. but wood is fun, can make some pretty cool stuff with metal/ wood accents or vice versa. I am not a cabinet maker...
(Oh, btw... I bought a used summerfeld table locally, it was a good price, but I did not think I was going to like it because it was aluminum, and a few other reasons). I don't like it. Not what I wanted. Not that it is a bad piece... just not what I really want. I like old, heavy, cast iron, etc.