soft start/variable speed table setup - Page 2 - Router Forums
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post #11 of 201 (permalink) Old 05-13-2009, 03:10 AM
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Smile Sounds like me..

..except I think I've done this backwards.

I've purchased the PC 7518, have the Incra MAST-R-Lift, Incra LS w/Wonderfence on order, will be ordering a Unisaw in a couple of weeks, hope to design a motorized lift for it and now think of remote speed control. I'm looking for a solution too.

TwoSkies,

What did you use for the table? I want to use the space from the extension table as a router table but would also like to install a Veritas twin-screw end vise (own it) on the end.

The router table would be best in MDF but I'd like to have the end vise attached to laminated maple. I'm trying to decide between going one way or the other or making the end near the saw of MDF and the end from Maple. I'm wondering about the differing expansion factors due to humidity.

I look forward to learning more of your decisions and following how they work for you.

Jim in Alaska
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post #12 of 201 (permalink) Old 05-13-2009, 07:09 AM
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Jim,
If I understand your concerns about the expansion table top correctly, I think there is a solution. This would work if you have some good quartersawn or stabile hardwood (maple, maybe?).
Make a frame of hardwood. The frame would have the end laminated to accept the Veritas vise. The inside of the frame would have a step cut into it to accomodate the MDF or your choice. I would make a substantial step, perhaps 1/2". You could also attach cleats to the inside of the frame. The frame should be cross braced beneath, at intervals, to help support the router placement and to insure against movement. You can glue the MDF into the frame, fasten, or let it float. I would do the first two. Irregardless, this method allows for any movement of the MDF and allows for the vise mounting.

Sawdust is not dirt
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post #13 of 201 (permalink) Old 05-13-2009, 07:38 PM
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Default this what you mean?

westend,

I have attached a sketch of what I think you said. Do I understand you correctly? I really like the idea of a hybrid. How do I account for the difference in expansion between the maple and the MDF if I affix the two together? I am envisioning two-sided laminate covered MDF to protect from moisture warping the MDF.

Perhaps a couple of screws near the router lift with slotted screw holes near the outside?

This would also have the advantage of making the router table "replaceable" without having to buy another 20+ board feet of hard maple ($6.20/bd ft here in Anchorage). ..or if I were to make my first ever mistake when routing the router lift cutout. <g>

Jim
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post #14 of 201 (permalink) Old 05-13-2009, 07:39 PM
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Default ..oops..

Did I mention that my idea was to make the top out of solid 8/4 maple?

Jim
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post #15 of 201 (permalink) Old 05-14-2009, 02:25 AM
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Originally Posted by BigJimAK View Post
westend,

I have attached a sketch of what I think you said. Do I understand you correctly? I really like the idea of a hybrid. How do I account for the difference in expansion between the maple and the MDF if I affix the two together? I am envisioning two-sided laminate covered MDF to protect from moisture warping the MDF.

Perhaps a couple of screws near the router lift with slotted screw holes near the outside?

This would also have the advantage of making the router table "replaceable" without having to buy another 20+ board feet of hard maple ($6.20/bd ft here in Anchorage). ..or if I were to make my first ever mistake when routing the router lift cutout. <g>

Jim
Jim,
Not quite what I had in mind but almost. The frame that holds the MDF should completely edge-band the piece of MDF. I'm guessing that this is called a stepped dado (see attachment). If you made this frame to join to the other pieces of maple, you're only joining maple to maple and along the same grain. Expansion would be the same for the maple pieces and the end of the frame.
I used this kind of frame for a table saw extension. It worked out great.

I need to get along more on my learning curve with Sketchup so I can share designs and access the libraries and such.
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post #16 of 201 (permalink) Old 05-14-2009, 03:36 AM
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Lance,

Treating the laminate router table top MDF) as if it were a giant router lift (i.e. with it resting in a dado cutout in the maple? Hmmm.... That has promise too!

Jim
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post #17 of 201 (permalink) Old 05-18-2009, 04:54 PM Thread Starter
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BigJim..

I broke down and purchased a custom sized table from Woodpeckers (28" x 49" x 1 3/8"). this included them placing the plate hole exactly where I needed it. The table itself is laminated MDF with a industrial grade phenolic laminate on both the top and bottom. Money I believe well spent. I don't believe expansion for you would be much of an issue. Mounting a twin screw to it might be though. Mounting wouldn't be a problem, but the constant stress applied to the screw might be unless you really do a good job of reinforcing the table and make good use of legs to the floor. My table is mounted to a cabinet I built. The LS runs on a pair of Incra TS rails and basemount. This way I can pop the entire assembly off in a heart beat...AS for remote control. I'm sold on it, I want it *L* and damned if i can find the milwaukee (jessem) 05626 motor. I have a call into Jessen and they are trying to run one down for me. Every where I've called, they are out of stock and not going to get anymore. Jessem says the have stopped production. My guess is due to the high cost. I've spoken to two electrical motor shops and they both agree that because of the ue of a circuit board, built into the big routers, converting them is not a very good idea..but I'll keep looking...
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post #18 of 201 (permalink) Old 05-20-2009, 01:51 AM
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Bill,

I started out planning on purchasing a laminate TS extension router table and a laminated maple workbench with a twinscrew based upon Popular Mechanic's PM November 2004 Woodworking Guide: Build A Workbench - Popular Mechanics

Following their plans should make it suitably strong, I figured.

As I started pricing things, I realized that even with "free shipping" as offered by many (for the lower 48), it would still cost me about $200 in freight to get it trucked to Alaska. That idea galled the sh*t out of me, so back to the drawing board. Shortly thereafter I started hearing the new Unisaw has a table that's more like 30" wide, so I'd have to order one custom. Too many board feet of hardwood could be purchased for that $200 freight.

Now I'm awaiting a check (Friday??) to order a new Unisaw and then I'll decide for sure. My inclination is to build one out of cheap wood and see how I like it. I want to see just how inconvenient the low height, distance to the router is, and if the Biesemeyer works well with a combined unit. This will be a prototype. I'll either replace the factory table and go with a dedicated router table or decide to go with the maple. Either way it'll be a learning experience, both from whether or not I like the design as well as experience with that large of a glue-up and end vise mounting experience.

Either way, the prototype can be shortened and used as a "beat-on" work surface for when you need to work work on something metal.

I am really appreciating the feedback, ideas and suggestions I'm getting here. This is a good group!

Jim
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post #19 of 201 (permalink) Old 05-20-2009, 08:39 AM Thread Starter
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Jim...
I never even thought of the shipping to AK... thats gotta be a deal killer for sure..

well, here is something more to ponder on....as if there isn't enough already. Consider a freestanding table. Giving you the flexibility to move the table around if and when you need to. Design your table a lil short of the height of your new saw and use it for an outfeed table. Killing two birds with one stone. A little planning ahead will allow for the quick removal of the LS positioner. Place a piece of 3/4" mdf or other suitable material over the top of the router table (just to save the table top from getting all scratched up). Give yourself some extra wide mitre slots so exact alignment isn't necessary.
the only question would be where the dust port for the TS is located and how to work around it....
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post #20 of 201 (permalink) Old 05-20-2009, 01:43 PM
 
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Default vs router conversion.

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Originally Posted by bobj3 View Post
...you can pull the control device off the router and mount it in a remote box if you want to..
Are you suggesting taking something like a DeWalt 618 motor, and actually removing the vs control (I assume its just a pot/variable resistor or similar), then putting this external to the motor?

I would never have thought of that. I like it. Anyone actually have some experience with this?
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