Using a Jessem router lift witha Bosch table - Router Forums
 3Likes
  • 3 Post By DesertRatTom
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 11-27-2019, 01:48 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Country: United States
First Name: Frank
Posts: 282
 
Default Using a Jessem router lift witha Bosch table

I need to put a different router lift on my router table. My table is a (RA 1171). This is the Bosch cabinet model. I have been told that a Jessem lift with fit this table. Is there anyone here on the forum that may have this setup? I would appreciate all and any help. I am using a the Bosch Lift that is supposed to work well with the model table. But I cannot seem to get it to work as I think a lift should.
Thanks, for any advice or knowledge of a Lift System That may work with this model router table.

Thank You,
Tagwatts1

Tagwatts1 from Utah

Remember to eat your desert first as you may die before your food arrives.
Tagwatts1 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 11-27-2019, 03:06 PM
Forum Contributor
 
DesertRatTom's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Country: United States
First Name: Tom
Posts: 16,675
 
Default

The Jessem lift is very well regarded as lifts go. That table has a plate for mounting, so that lift should be able to fit.

You might also look into the Triton TRA001 router instead. It has a built in lift (you remove a spring for this purpose). It is 3 1/4hp, so very powerful, has a crank so you can also set height from above the table, has some interesting features, such as when changing bits, you crank it full up and it locks the shaft so you only need one wrench. There is also a safety interlock so you can't turn it on when it is fully raised. It also has pretty good dust collection built in. The price (about $270) is less than the Jessem lift and a number of people here really like it.

There are other brands and models of routers that have similar features. Hopefully someone who has them will add their input. I can only speak to the Triton, which is a beast. I keep my 1617 routers for free hand and plunge use now. They used to be in the table with a Rockler lift, which I sold some time ago because it slipped.

You have many options open to you. That's a nice little table.
harrysin, HoweA and dirt_dobber like this.

The more I do, the less I accomplish.
DesertRatTom is online now  
post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 12-05-2019, 11:32 AM
Registered User
 
PhilBa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Country: United States
First Name: phil
Posts: 1,239
 
Default

Sorry, I'm a bit late to this party but I went through a similar exercise about 6 years ago. It was frustrating because there was little information on the compatibility question. Even the opening sizes were hard to find. Some would sell you a template and conveniently forget to say the dimensions and corner radius. I suspected it was a sneaky way to enhance revenue. After a fair amount of digging, there seemed to be two standard opening sizes - Rockler's and everyone else's. If the basic L and W are the same, the corners will probably have the same radius. I don't know if much has changed in the mean time. Good luck and post back what you've found so others don't have to go through what we had to. (I believe I posted about this a while back)

Measure twice, cut once and CROSS OUT THE WRONG MARKS.

Visit my shop website.
PhilBa is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 12-05-2019, 03:16 PM
Forum Contributor
 
DesertRatTom's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Country: United States
First Name: Tom
Posts: 16,675
 
Default

If the table top is thick enough, you can cut any size opening you want. The drawin below shows how to use four pieces of straight wood to cut the opening and a half inch rabbet for the plate to sit in. The rabbet depth should be a bit more than the thickness of the plate. You adjust height with screws through the bottom in each corner, or go the easy way by purchasing the Kreg leverers in the other picture.

If the top isn't thick enough for a substantial edge for the plate to sit on, consider gluing on a half inch piece of ply with an opening the same size as the inside edge of the rabbet. You can glue this in and then cut it, but it's probably better to clamp the ply to the botton, mark the opening, cut it, then glue it in place. You can add fine finish nails to align the ply correctly as slippery glue sets.

The leveling screws allow you to adjust until the plate is exactly flush with the top surface. If you can feel an edge with your finger nail, it is not flush. I find it helpful to use a 18 inch straight edge for aligning the top. If there is any error, one end will raise a little bit
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Router plate frame plus plate.JPG
Views:	7
Size:	24.5 KB
ID:	377599  

Click image for larger version

Name:	router plate levelers.jpg
Views:	7
Size:	340.5 KB
ID:	377601  


The more I do, the less I accomplish.

Last edited by DesertRatTom; 12-05-2019 at 03:20 PM.
DesertRatTom is online now  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Router Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome