Router Table-saw Extension Underway - Page 3 - Router Forums
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post #21 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-22-2020, 04:44 PM Thread Starter
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Default Router Table-saw Extension Underway

BTW, something I know I am going to need to do when this is installed is add support. This extension is a beast. I currently intend to add diagonal bracing between the extension and cabinet saw base. I will likely also add some degree of adjustable support between the extension and the floor, if nothing more than to ease some of the strain on the fence rails.

Given that I made the dust box out of 3/4, I could add a simple stabilizer between the underside of the box and the floor.


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Last edited by mbrun; 03-22-2020 at 04:57 PM.
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post #22 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-22-2020, 05:11 PM
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nice work...

I gots suggestions... (in multiple posts, one thing at a time)

the mounting screws for the reinforcements...
did you countersink or counterbore them...
counterbores are less likely to split the reinforcements and will hold tighter longer...
you have resonance and vibration to contend w/...
the V of the countersunk screw tends to act as a splitting wedge...
the flat of the counterbore acts as hold down clamp...

.
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This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”

Last edited by Stick486; 03-22-2020 at 07:06 PM.
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post #23 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-22-2020, 05:43 PM
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speed and on/off controls.

my speed controller died because of capacitor failures... (on several of my 7518's)
I bypassed the controller, added external speed control along w/ on/off....

see this post....
and these threads...
https://www.routerforums.com/tools-w...pc-7518-a.html
https://www.routerforums.com/general...ml#post2083545

.
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This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
Stick486 is online now  
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post #24 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-22-2020, 05:58 PM
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motor venting...

solid mount a square tube to the bottom of the router box...
free float the end of the motor inside of the tube...
look to PVC down spouts or PVC post covers...
make your own tube from ¼'' ply...
if you feel that you need to gasket the tube to the motor us a door sweep or a door astragal......
https://www.ultrafab.com/product/door-sweeps/

Plan ''B''...
Pin the tube to the lift's motor bracket... (best way w/ external controls)...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
Stick486 is online now  
post #25 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-22-2020, 07:05 PM
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Dust collection...

put a door on the box...
add kants to inside corners of your box changing it to an octagon...
add opposing air inlets/venting to the box near the top to exceed the square inches of DC hose...
2 sides or all 4 but balanced...
I did about 50 square inches total of DC air inlet divided between 2 opposing sides consisting of 2 clusters of 2½'' holes.... (1 cluster on each side)...
Herb did one better and did his w/ adjustable gates for his inlets...
right angle boot (see the pic) the bottom for your DC pickup... it's a HVAC flanged floor register...
extend the motor air supply snorkel out the bottom and right through wall of the boot...

Note:
see you BB HVAC and plumbing departments fp your DC components...

@Herb Stoops ... got any details on your adjustable inlets for this man????


This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
Stick486 is online now  
post #26 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-22-2020, 07:21 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stick486 View Post
nice work...

I gots suggestions... (in multiple posts, one thing at a time)

the mounting screws for the reinforcements...
did you countersink or counterbore them...
counterbores are less likely to split the reinforcements and will hold tighter longer...
you have resonance and vibration to contend w/...
the V of the countersunk screw tends to act as a splitting wedge...
the flat of the counterbore acts as hold down clamp...

.

Good point Stick. Yes, all points of support are handled with counterbored holes, fitted with perfectly sized steel washers and washer head Robertson drive screws. Where you see all the holes in the horizontal beams and cross members that is what is there. I used Forstner bit for the counterbore.


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post #27 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-22-2020, 07:32 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stick486 View Post
speed and on/off controls.

my speed controller died because of capacitor failures... (on several of my 7518's)
I bypassed the controller, added external speed control along w/ on/off....

see this post....
and these threads...
https://www.routerforums.com/tools-w...pc-7518-a.html
https://www.routerforums.com/general...ml#post2083545

.

My 7518 is only a few months old. I have learned that B&D has cut quality in the current generation of PC products and that they are prone to failures like you indicate. When I fall victim to this, and by all indications I will, I will go outboard. In the meantime I am going to enjoy the integral speed control with built-in feedback loop. (BTW, I love they way my Type 1 DEWALT DW625 speed control works. I think the type 1 was merely a colored change of the ELU) I did watch a video already on replacing the bearings on this guy as well as the SC just so I knew what I was getting myself into. If I recall correctly, the B&D charges about 1/2-2/3 the price of the router for a $2 speed control.


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post #28 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-22-2020, 08:10 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stick486 View Post
Dust collection...

put a door on the box...
add kants to inside corners of your box changing it to an octagon...
add opposing air inlets/venting to the box near the top to exceed the square inches of DC hose...
2 sides or all 4 but balanced...
I did about 50 square inches total of DC air inlet divided between 2 opposing sides consisting of 2 clusters of 2½'' holes.... (1 cluster on each side)...
Herb did one better and did his w/ adjustable gates for his inlets...
right angle boot (see the pic) the bottom for your DC pickup... it's a HVAC flanged floor register...
extend the motor air supply snorkel out the bottom and right through wall of the boot...

Note:
see you BB HVAC and plumbing departments fp your DC components...

@Herb Stoops ... got any details on your adjustable inlets for this man????


Most definitely will be adding a door. Currently thinking I will put primary air intake for dust evacuation in the upper part of the door.

Before dinner I was outside playing with cardboard pieces to better visualize the details of how I will construct baffles to direct airflow and dust.

I made my dust box extra deep (front to back) with the idea that I would add a vertical plenum of sorts in the back side of the box. I would then draw air for dust evacuation through vents in the front door, across and above a horizontal baffle through the bit area and then down the vertical plenum. I believe I got the idea of the horizontal baffle idea from you and your many posts. I am pretty convinced I make that baffle light weight and yet strong enough to it can travel up and down with my lift.

At present, I do see bringing dedicated fresh are into the bottom of the box to feed the motor. The motor will suck that clean air up through the motor to the upper chamber (above the baffle of course) and this warm air will mix with the cross-ventilation and saw dust that is being sucked to the back of the box, down and out through that 4”x12” vertical plenum. That horizontal baffle higher up could end up resulting in little dust in the portion of the box that contains the motor.

For my air inlets, I will do something that is adjustable so air flow can be tweaked.


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post #29 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-22-2020, 08:25 PM
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Here are the pictures of the adjustable side vent.
Herb
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post #30 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-23-2020, 06:21 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Here are the pictures of the adjustable side vent.
Herb

Thanks Herb.

How well would you rate dust collection for your setup?


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