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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-04-2009, 09:00 AM Thread Starter
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Default intro and new router table?

Hi there,

I've been doing woodworking here in Austin, Texas on and off for 20 years, and I really need to make a new router table and fence. Found this website through the router workshop site and was curious as to what others would do if they were building or buying one today. Looing forward to all the goodies in this forum.

thanks,

Tom
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-04-2009, 10:47 AM
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I am quite impressed with the concept of router-lifts. They do make it a lot easier to adjust height/depth on a router table. For years I have made my own fences. I have just started to use an Incra fence on the router table. The fine and repeatable adjustment is a joy to use.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-04-2009, 10:52 AM Thread Starter
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As I get older it sure seems like a lift would be nice perk. And then I heard about the Triton that evidently you can raise and change bits above the table. So I thought perhaps I should maybe just get a new Triton and skip buying a separate lift. I still have the same Milwaukee ( 2 hp) that I bought 20 years ago and still works great.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-05-2009, 04:50 AM
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Lifts are good. If you plan to replace your router, many routers have a lift built in saving many $$$. I built my own table using a "kit" as it were that had some of the basics for the table. I think next time I would get the plate from HF and build most the rest from scratch. If you are interested in seeing built tables check out some of the galleries of some of he older members. The Incra fence looks great and I would love to have some thing like that for my router table and TS it's just out of my league for now.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-05-2009, 06:19 AM
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Tom welcome to the router forum

You will get lots of info here

Nicolas
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-05-2009, 06:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rolanddds View Post
... curious as to what others would do if they were building or buying one today.
Hi Tom:

If you've seen the routerworkshop videos, that's probably the best system you'll find. It is not cheap, although inexpensive would be appropriate. Guys buy router lifts and I've got my router out of the table the bit changed, depth set and back into the table in a fraction of the time it takes for other methods.

However, I do recommend a two-hole table for table and fence operations. It's just more efficient.

I would suggest that you make one base with interchangable tops so you can use fence, skis and a variety of other methods for router use.

Allthunbs
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-11-2009, 10:46 AM Thread Starter
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Ron, what do you mean a two hole table? And skis? Do you remove your router through the top or from underneath? Bob sure does changes fast from the top in the videos. I've been working from underneath for 20 years.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-11-2009, 06:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rolanddds View Post
Ron, what do you mean a two hole table? And skis? Do you remove your router through the top or from underneath? Bob sure does changes fast from the top in the videos. I've been working from underneath for 20 years.
Hi Tom:

Yup, my router table base is 2' x 4' and 3' tall. I divided the (insert) table into two 2'x2' squares and mounted the OakPark baseplate in each. I have two M12V routers and both can be table mounted, although only one can take large bits. The other remains unmodified. I have a variety of fences from 26" to 52" and heights from 2" to 10".

I tried as an experiment to set the baseplates at a diagonal to the sides. I wouldn't recommend it and I will be replacing them eventually but I'll hold onto the top, just in case.

Now, I am putting together tops to interchange on a common base. The ski top will be 3'x4' and will not be topped with laminate, although it will be faced with plywood or some other easily replacable material.

The duplicator top will be 4'x4' and will be thick and heavy and will have dogs and holddowns.

I will mount a 2'x4' single hole top but that will be one method of doing templates and edging. It will not have a laminate top but will have dogs and holddowns.

Yes, I do remove the router from the table, the same way the Rosendahls do.

When you embrace a system, you accept all of the ideocyncracies that go with it. For example, I have been creating a collection of baseplates for various routers and functions. I have 11" square and 7" square baseplates with centre holes of 1 1/2" and 3 1/4". Interchanging baseplates is a job-specific function and I can change baseplates 3 or 4 times per project. I'm constantly looking for ideas for new baseplates.

I highly recommend the rubber tipped "C" clamps. Take a 1" ID cane tip, a small piece of 1" dowel and an appropriate sized "C" clamp (I used 4".) The "C" clamp has a sliding bar as the lever to tighten the clamp. Cut it off but hang on to it. Cut off a 1" chunk of dowel and centre drill it the diameter of the clamp's screw. Drill a cross hole in about the middle of the dowel the size of the cross bar. Fit the bit of dowel on the "C" clamp, fit in the cross bar and cut to size and put the cane tip over the whole mess. It should work like a charm. You'll need about 4 of them so adjust as necessary and reproduce 3 more times. These clamps will save you a bunch of time. A medium grip and a quick twist and you're done.

You'll have to look through the archives for articles on skis. Template Tom is the expert and HarrySin is his student. Look for articles from those two. My personal preference is for the smooth rods but there are those supporting threaded rods. I prefer skis for lap joints and for anything that requires accurate thickness.

Allthunbs
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