Almost finished apart from that %*# switch... - Router Forums
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-01-2020, 08:32 AM Thread Starter
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Default Almost finished apart from that %*# switch...

Hi folks. Well, my router table build kind of stalled after Xmas due to a succession of health issues so I was only able to get little bits done. My current enforced isolation however (For various reason I fall into the high risk category for the damned virus so I'm part way through at least 12 weeks isolation, just as I'm starting to get back to normal ) has given me the opportunity to crack on with it and it's almost finished.

My biggest issue now is the switch. I bought this one https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 which is a generic KJD17BD the same as the one that DesertRatTom recommended. I've wired it up according to the diagram on the side of the switch through a choc block as per the attached diagram. 'IN' is obviously power in and 'OUT' leads to a plug socket on the back of the router table which the router plugs into. At the moment, as the router is still in warranty I don't want to do anything that might void that which includes cutting off the moulded plug hence the plug socket. In the future I will wire the router straight in to the switch and rewire the plug socket so it's just a straight through extension socket.

As far as I can tell, everything should be good but, when I turn the router on it will only run as long as I hold the on button in. As soon as I let that go, the router turns off. I'm sure I saw a thread here regarding the same issue with this switch but stuffed if I can find it now.

If anyone has any advice as ever, it would be most gratefully received.
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-01-2020, 09:28 AM
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I don`t know which switch you have but I purchased a Powertec from Amazon and it was the same as yours, i.e. defective. I tried every possible combination of hooking it up and the electromagnet would not hold the contacts closed. As for cutting the plug off the end, no need. Run the switch wire to the hot contact of a standard plug like I did instead and just plug your router into that.
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-01-2020, 10:00 AM Thread Starter
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I don`t know which switch you have but I purchased a Powertec from Amazon and it was the same as yours, i.e. defective. I tried every possible combination of hooking it up and the electromagnet would not hold the contacts closed. As for cutting the plug off thened, no need. Run the switch wire to the hot contact of a standard plug like I did instead and just plug your router into that.
I already have the output from the switch running to a plug socket that the router is plugged in to. Rather depressing to hear about the switch, I was hoping I'd messed something up rather than a faulty switch, especially with the way things are at the moment.
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-01-2020, 01:37 PM
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Make sure the A1 is energized as that engages the magnetic circuit. I have quite a few of that type of switch . just not that brand
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-01-2020, 02:19 PM Thread Starter
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It would seem from what I've just been told elsewhere that I've misread the wiring diagram and that A1 should in fact be connected to 24, not 14 which is already connected internally. It's a bit late to be fiddling around with power tools here now so I'll have a look at it tomorrow.

Fingers crossed!!
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-01-2020, 08:30 PM
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British wiring and connectors are a mystery this side of the pond. You could take it to an electrician and find out what kind of connector you need to take the feed to an outlet that you can plug the router into. I'd not cut off the plug. If the switch has an open back as shown, then it probably needs to go into a box.

Did you draw that diagram or is is the one supplied with the switch? Something is missing. 13 and 23 are IN, 14 and 24 are OUT. To complete the circuit for 120v, there should be a single pole switch between 14 and 24 and 13 and 23 could be wired straight through. Or it could be a doble pole switch that closes both circuits, which would be required for 220-240v. The electro magnet would hold the two poles closed during operation.

However, I see no indication of the electromagnet or in particular, how it gets its power. An electromagnet must have both line and neutral. If it doesn't have power, it may start, but not stay on. Which is why I wondered about the absence of the power to the electromagnet. That sounds like the problem to me is no power to the electromagnet. Is there another diagram?

Sometimes there's an additional connector or a switch that may be concealed.
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Last edited by DesertRatTom; 04-01-2020 at 08:43 PM.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-02-2020, 03:02 AM Thread Starter
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British wiring and connectors are a mystery this side of the pond. You could take it to an electrician and find out what kind of connector you need to take the feed to an outlet that you can plug the router into. I'd not cut off the plug. If the switch has an open back as shown, then it probably needs to go into a box.

Did you draw that diagram or is is the one supplied with the switch? Something is missing. 13 and 23 are IN, 14 and 24 are OUT. To complete the circuit for 120v, there should be a single pole switch between 14 and 24 and 13 and 23 could be wired straight through. Or it could be a doble pole switch that closes both circuits, which would be required for 220-240v. The electro magnet would hold the two poles closed during operation.

However, I see no indication of the electromagnet or in particular, how it gets its power. An electromagnet must have both line and neutral. If it doesn't have power, it may start, but not stay on. Which is why I wondered about the absence of the power to the electromagnet. That sounds like the problem to me is no power to the electromagnet. Is there another diagram?

Sometimes there's an additional connector or a switch that may be concealed.
I did draw the diagram Tom but it would now appear that I've mis-read the diagram on the switch and wired it wrong. A1 is already internally connected to 14 and I should have connected it to 24. I'm going to go and try that in a mo.

I have mounted the switch in a box and I'll bung up some finished pics on the original thread assuming this all works and I actually finish it Be warned, it's not a pretty sight
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-02-2020, 08:03 AM
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Darned switches !!!

I am also nearing completion of my R/T. I have been accumulating parts for it for several years. I recently opened the box for the Freud switch I bought, and found it to be a switch that is made to install on a table made from steel angles like several shop tables I own. Problem is it is not made to mount on a wooden panel. I guess I will attempt to modify it or the table. I like Chuck's idea of mounting it on the top and am considering it seriously.
Any suggestions ?

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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-02-2020, 11:12 AM
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Jon,
Assuming that your ins and outs are correct, A1 should be connected to the Live In (13). In your block diagram it is connected to the Live-out. That won”t work. Neither will connecting it to 23, which is the neutral In. The neutral to the electromagnet is internally connected.
The switch is designed to release if the mains supply cuts out (No Volts Release), so you are not caught unawares should the mains come on again while you are fiddling with the cutting parts. So the electromagnet must be powered directly from the mains Live.
There is no advantage to cutting off the plug from the router cable - on the contrary, you may need to pull the route out for freehand use sometime. Leave well enough alone.
But give some consideration to where Chuck has mounted his switch (on the fence). I plan to move mine there.

Tom, yes our switches are double pole, switching live and neutral together.
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-02-2020, 11:19 AM
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Jon, just make sure that your ins and outs are correct. Perhaps reproduce the diagram stamped on the side of the switch?
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