Making table top thick enough to add Kreg mini-trak - Page 2 - Router Forums
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post #11 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-12-2020, 11:40 AM
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I made one router table out of a single layer of 5/8" meklamine coated particle board and added tracks for locking the fence down. That only left 1/4" under the tracks but I added a framework under and put frame pieces under those spots and never had an issue with it for the 5 or 6 years it saw service.

A few members have made tops that sit on Workmates. You open the Workmate all the way and at the end it tightens against cleats attached to the bottom of the top to keep it from sliding around when in use. The router fits in the opening. Doesn't take up much room and you have a Workmate for other jobs too when you aren't routing.

I made another table for my son that used a $30 set of folding table legs. You need a frame under the top to keep it rigid but it folds up and doesn't take up much room. I drilled through the locking mechanism so it could be pinned to make sure it couldn't fold up during use.
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post #12 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-12-2020, 10:35 PM Thread Starter
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If that worked Chuck, then mine will too. Got a lot done. I tried up the edges of the long sides of the table then routed them to accept the Kreg mini tracks. I'm setting up my 24 by 30 table to use it the short direction. I can always attach an extension table or use an off feed roller if that kind of support was ever necessary. This probably won't get used often. I needed a lift a year or so ago...... so I made one. Cost as much as buying one by the time I got it done, but I like making stuff. I actually enjoy the challenge of making tools as much as using them.
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post #13 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-12-2020, 11:07 PM Thread Starter
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I watched a video a month or so ago about routing the table opening for the lift plate. It starts with measuring the bit edge to the router edge then cutting strips of hardboard that exact width to frame the router lift...... Making a template.
Then you position that template on your table and build a second template around that template. I use small beads of hot glue as temporary fasteners instead of double faced tape.
Anyway, you remove the inside template and retain the second one to route against. I'm sure this is a common method. I'm even wondering if Herb might have shown this method and I have seen it here. Anyway it works.
First, I routed a groove in a scrap piece to get the exact width of the bit to the router plate edge. I used that scrap to set the fence on my table saw. Once set up, I cut some strips of hardboard to make the template. Fit like a glove.
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post #14 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-12-2020, 11:20 PM Thread Starter
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I positioned the template so the routers weight rests directly on two of the steel frame rails. Then I hot glued a frame around the first template and removed the first one. My router lift plate sets close to the edge of the table, so I had to 'hokey up' a framework on that side using a couple of pieces of plywood and a pine board..... once more, it's hot glued to other parts of the template. I did that because the template overhung dead air on that end and I needed... something.
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post #15 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-12-2020, 11:44 PM Thread Starter
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Anyway, the plate I made was square, but since the 3/4" router bit leaves round corners,. I rounded the lift plate edges to sexy it up.
The aluminum is soft of course, so I may add the same laminate to the router lift top plate. I routed deep enough for clearance to do that.
Anyway, it was approaching sundown, to I put the lift in and one side of the Kreg mini tracks. I need one more for the other side, but running low on funds. They are $21 locally. I'll need a third one if I add the miter gauge.
It will be easiest to remove the router body for changing bits. Just need to remove two knobs and it drops right out.
....so I'm finally making progress. A stable fence design is next. I'm thinking aluminum.
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post #16 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-13-2020, 12:10 AM
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well done...

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This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

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post #17 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-13-2020, 12:15 AM Thread Starter
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well done...

.
Thanks, it's been a fun project and has taken me less than a decade to dream up and get to this point. 😄
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post #18 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-13-2020, 12:22 AM Thread Starter
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I sealed the underside with polyurethane and I'll probably add at least one, maybe two more coats. The top is sealed, so the underside hast to be. Trying to think of some kind of edging... Maybe 3/8 wood of some kind. Something stable if I keep this in the storage area in the carport as planned. When not in use the router and lift will be taken out. They are a bit heavy and the table has to stand upright, leaning against a wall.
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post #19 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-13-2020, 12:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ranman View Post
I sealed the underside with polyurethane and I'll probably add at least one, maybe two more coats. The top is sealed, so the underside hast to be. Trying to think of some kind of edging... Maybe 3/8 wood of some kind. Something stable if I keep this in the storage area in the carport as planned. When not in use the router and lift will be taken out. They are a bit heavy and the table has to stand upright, leaning against a wall.
the laminate you used for the top as edge banding would be perfect...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #20 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-13-2020, 02:55 AM Thread Starter
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I still need to build up material under the track. Right now the plywood is 3/8 thick along the upper and lower sides where I routed it out for the track.
I was thinking the 3/8 thick by 1 1/2 inch tall wood as edging because it would protect the tracks from poltergeist, killer clowns... and bad karma. ie: having it fall on the edges.

Last edited by ranman; 04-13-2020 at 02:58 AM.
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