Making table top thick enough to add Kreg mini-trak - Page 4 - Router Forums
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post #31 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-14-2020, 01:05 AM
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adhered tapes are for general reference and usually at some point in time get pretty much ignored.....
where is the zero to be set???...
rough setts and then wiggle would be a good way to put it...
a serious straight edge would be one of you best assets..
after some use your eyes will calibrate to the need..
the fence only needs squaring to the miter gauge or your sled...

evolution of something tends to make me do things a bit differently...
and what ever I use it MUST do more than one job and do it well and earn the space it takes up...
this RT is a multitasker...
it's an RT w/ storage and it serves the FMT, D4R and miter knife..
note the drawer configuration..
fewer drawers that used less material to make and produced a higher volume of storage...

.
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This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #32 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-14-2020, 01:22 AM
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Originally Posted by ranman View Post
I've always used a product called Chemrex 948. It now goes by another name. It's claim to fame in the flooring trades was for adhering tackstrip to a
concrete floor. If you spritzed the tackstrip lightly with water, they said you could stretch the carpet in 3 hours.
I know what you mean about letting it cure. 1/2 way though the curing process, it won't hold bubble gum to a shoe. 😄
Once cured it's bulletproof.
I'm actually testing it on a plastic transition piece as we speak.
it holds in 10 minutes..
flashing it will speed that up...

if left to it's own it will expand w/ the intent to bridge gaps and fill voids but w/o clamping things will move...
it's suppose to be able to bridge 3/8'' of a gap..
and it will hold down carpet strip and your floor tiles...

a guy here built a torsion box work top and took the clamps off too early...
presto.. bulged table top...

I've never did plastic w/ it.. only wood to wood. steel, masonry and ceramic tile repairs..
a little goes a long way...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #33 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-14-2020, 01:42 AM Thread Starter
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Love to have place like that to work in. Very well organized to boot.
I have used the urethane on plastic trims before but in needs some additional mechanical means.... scuffing with 50 grit and drilling the hollow cavity with a series of 8" holes.
Haven't used this brand of flooring before so I'm testing it. Also testing with E6000. I think it will bond anything.
http://eclecticproducts.com/e6000-in...-adhesive.html

Last edited by ranman; 04-14-2020 at 01:49 AM.
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post #34 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-14-2020, 01:53 AM
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Love to have place like that to work in. Very well organized to boot.
I have used the urethane on plastic trims before but in needs some additional mechanical means.... scuffing with 50 grit and drilling the hollow cavity with a series of 8" holes.
Haven't used this brand of flooring before so I'm testing it. Also testing with E6000. I think it will bond anything.
what flooring???...
flooring wants mastic...
Bostik makes some serious mastics...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
Stick486 is online now  
post #35 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-14-2020, 12:12 PM Thread Starter
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It's a floating floor, LVP plank. The trims are adhered. I did not sand the base of my glue test pieces. The urethane hardly set up on the ceramic tile test... didn't figure to would. It didn't have a lot of strength on the plywood either as I also suspected.
The E6000 did a lot better but needs more cure time. It would set up faster if I stuck it in place, the pulled it back to flash off for a couple minutes..... like Contact cement.
Contact would work for this but it's a bit more smelly than what I'd prefer to use and I'm butting against a floppy carpet.
To keep the trim tight to the floor as the adhesive cures, I've in the past, layed a bead of adhesive down, leaving a one inch gap every foot or so. When laying the trim into place. I put a bead of hot glue in those gaps as I continue lower it into the adhesive. The hot glue sets firm and eliminates the need for clamps..... This way there's nothing for the customer to trip over.
Hot glue alone might work for the entire length. I'm out of material to test with here at the house.
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post #36 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-14-2020, 11:54 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ranman View Post
Love to have place like that to work in. Very well organized to boot.
I have used the urethane on plastic trims before but in needs some additional mechanical means.... scuffing with 50 grit and drilling the hollow cavity with a series of 8" holes.
Haven't used this brand of flooring before so I'm testing it. Also testing with E6000. I think it will bond anything.
what flooring???...
flooring wants mastic...
Bostik makes some serious mastics...
Like Bostiks Best? That stuff is nasty good. Nasty because it can easily get everywhere that you don't want it to get unless you are extremely careful. Good... Because it set a new standard for wood flooring adhesives.... back in the day.
I used gorilla contact glue after another test. You are supposed to let it flash briefly. I ran fat 1/8 inch beads of Gorilla, then put globs of hot glue every foot then quickly placed the trim. Hot glue in this case acts as sort of instant clamps. Then the glue can cure without the need to make a return trip to remove other types of physical clamps and weights.
There was also a wider transition in the dining room opening done the same way.
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post #37 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-29-2020, 12:17 AM Thread Starter
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Just curious. If I don't add a miter slot or a t track........ and let's say I find that absolutely perfect feather board. How about just drilling some nice, clean holes in the table top with my router, then screwing in some brass inserts spaced to accept the feather boards adjustment slot dimensions.
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post #38 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-29-2020, 12:28 AM
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Just curious. If I don't add a miter slot or a t track........ and let's say I find that absolutely perfect feather board. How about just drilling some nice, clean holes in the table top with my router, then screwing in some brass inserts spaced to accept the feather boards adjustment slot dimensions.
that would work...
but...
I think there will be times that the inserts won't be right where you will need them...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
Stick486 is online now  
post #39 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-29-2020, 12:43 AM Thread Starter
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I was thinking that, but if they were evenly spaced, the feather board would have incremental movements up or down even allowing two feather boards....fore and aft
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