Making table top thick enough to add Kreg mini-trak - Router Forums
 11Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-09-2020, 03:23 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Country: United States
First Name: Randy
Posts: 272
 
Default Making table top thick enough to add Kreg mini-trak

Been playing with ideas for a table top made to be transportable. It will hold my DIY router lift.
I have a steel frame with 3/4" plywood screwed onto it. The steel frame is 1x2 box tubing. Late in the game, decided it best to add some tracks to lock things in place. To get the tracks installed I need some additional thickness. The track is 3/8 thick.
I need to make the table thicker, so the question is, could I laminate some 1/4 inch tempered hardboard onto the plywood using Contact cement? I have some heavy Formica for a finished surface. By doing adding the hardboard, I would route less than 1/8 inch into the 3/4" plywood to mount the tracks.
I'm trying to not make this much thicker and heavier. It's 24 by 30
The framework is plenty stout, so no need for a second layer of 3/4. This will be stored in my carport so whatever I do, I want to keep it stable.... that's why the tubular welded steel base.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20200409_104826142_HDR_1586463446850.jpg
Views:	40
Size:	1,002.0 KB
ID:	384913  

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20200409_104809518_HDR_1586463471278.jpg
Views:	41
Size:	950.6 KB
ID:	384915  

ranman is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-09-2020, 08:28 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2020
First Name: Michael
Posts: 78
 
Default

Given the fact that you already have a metal frame underneath, I would think you could get by with only the 3/4” you already have. But your idea of routing only 1/8” deep and then laminating the top with HB sounds like an excellent idea. Contact cement would be perfect IMO. The HB would add some thickness and gives you a smoother top.

Also, one other option, because again of your metal frame already, is you could still route your 3/4 top to accept the track, but add thickness below the existing 3/4” layer, but below the track. Perhaps gluing a strip of 1/2” or 3/4” plywood 3-4” wide along the entire length of track. That would give the track screws something more to bit into and hold on.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
mbrun is online now  
post #3 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-09-2020, 09:30 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Country: United States
First Name: Randy
Posts: 272
 
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mbrun View Post
Given the fact that you already have a metal frame underneath, I would think you could get by with only the 3/4” you already have. But your idea of routing only 1/8” deep and then laminating the top with HB sounds like an excellent idea. Contact cement would be perfect IMO. The HB would add some thickness and gives you a smoother top.

Also, one other option, because again of your metal frame already, is you could still route your 3/4 top to accept the track, but add thickness below the existing 3/4” layer, but below the track. Perhaps gluing a strip of 1/2” or 3/4” plywood 3-4” wide along the entire length of track. That would give the track screws something more to bit into and hold on.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
My original thought was to not add the hardboard and do like you mentioned.
I can also weld in one more bar to give it even more support and do just that.
I could also weld in the extra support then use 1/8" Masonite.
The table has a fairly consistent belly or concave shape about the thickness of a recipe card. That's an error in the metal. It's easily corrected by loosening the center screws and sliding in some brass shim stock or something eqivilent.
Most tables I see have two short slots routed on either side of the lift to clamp down the fence. I was thinking to run a Kraig track all the way down each side for clamping the fence and for additional uses. They are $20 each and I already have one.

Last edited by ranman; 04-09-2020 at 09:33 PM.
ranman is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-09-2020, 10:24 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Country: United States
First Name: Randy
Posts: 272
 
Default

I'll add some edited images if it helps to better describe the support for the plywood and whether I can get away with just this single layer of 3/4" plywood. I'm thinking I can. Blue is the additional support that I can add. Red is obvious. Green of all colors is the Krag track. 😄
Making table top thick enough to add Kreg mini-trak-img_20200409_104826142_hdr-4_1586488885735.jpg
The white shows where the metal supports are on the underside. The lift is fully supported by the metal tubing
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20200409_104809518_HDR~2_1586488800936.jpg
Views:	10
Size:	968.5 KB
ID:	384945  

Herb Stoops likes this.
ranman is offline  
post #5 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-09-2020, 11:17 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Country: United States
First Name: Randy
Posts: 272
 
Default

Probably best now to add more confusion to the mix since I may end up with a single layer of 3/4"plywood on this metal frame.
If I add a combo miter track to the equasion, they all seem to be 1/2" thick. That would leave me just 1/4 inch thickness of plywood over the width of the track.
If my metal base is strong and solid, will routing this deep really be a issue?
The miter track would of course lay the short 24" direction.

Last edited by ranman; 04-09-2020 at 11:23 PM.
ranman is offline  
post #6 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-10-2020, 08:03 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Country: United States
First Name: Art
Posts: 1,527
 
Default

I would add the extra wood to the bottom to make sure that the top doesn't buckle should the glue come loose. I would also go with something thicker to keep it really solid.
mgmine is offline  
post #7 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-10-2020, 08:27 AM
Forum Contributor
 
Stick486's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Country: United States
First Name: Stick
Posts: 28,630
 
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mgmine View Post
I would add the extra wood to the bottom to make sure that the top doesn't buckle should the glue come loose. I would also go with something thicker to keep it really solid.
at least ½'' ply construction adhesived to the bottom/underside of the top...
use PL400 or PL Premium...
make sure you screw the ply down till the adhesive cures...
mica the top...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
Stick486 is online now  
post #8 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-10-2020, 11:06 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Country: United States
First Name: Randy
Posts: 272
 
Default

The steel frame was used instead of using two layers of thick material like is the standard in a home workshop. I could fill in the larger center section with what I have left of the 3/4". That area is where the combination track would be should I decide to add it.
ranman is offline  
post #9 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-10-2020, 11:15 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Country: United States
First Name: Randy
Posts: 272
 
Default

I would of course need more thickness on the long sides where the track will be installed for screws. There's a 3/4" overhang on all 4 sides beyond the steel frame. I can weld brackets on the metal base to install removable legs. That was my initial thinking when deciding for a metal structure...... That, and metal doesn't warp. 😉

Last edited by ranman; 04-10-2020 at 11:19 AM.
ranman is offline  
post #10 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-12-2020, 02:34 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Country: United States
First Name: Randy
Posts: 272
 
Default

Right or wrong....
Well, my table will remain one layer of 3/4" plywood. I got the slight dish in the center leveled out using strips of 50 grit adhesive sandpaper as my shim material. Snugged up all the screws and it worked out great. The Formica is on so I am commited. Maybe tomorrow I can lay out and maybe set in the router lift and decide on the miter gauge/feather board clamp positions.
I brought back to life an old miter guage that I constructed for a bench top belt sander. This was in the late 80's or early 90s.
The radius of the miter gauge was too wide so I shrunk it on the sander. That part was from an old Craftsman router table. I went to a local machine shop and bought some heavy brass stock, then shaped it to a perfect 5/8" width and silver soldered on a pointer. Made the marker notch with my utility knife.
New black paint and some brass polish and I got that part paid in full. 🙂
It's kinda short but I think it will work.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20200411_212932772_1586676675159.jpg
Views:	10
Size:	561.0 KB
ID:	385101  

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20200411_213041028_1586676692815.jpg
Views:	9
Size:	715.5 KB
ID:	385103  

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20200411_213326279_1586676733075.jpg
Views:	9
Size:	747.8 KB
ID:	385105  

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20200411_213402485_1586676760996.jpg
Views:	8
Size:	694.7 KB
ID:	385107  

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20200411_213249790_1586676782185.jpg
Views:	9
Size:	616.8 KB
ID:	385109  


Last edited by ranman; 04-12-2020 at 02:41 AM.
ranman is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Router Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome