Best distance to position a combo miter guage track - Router Forums
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-09-2020, 11:32 PM Thread Starter
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Default Best distance to position a combo miter guage track

Is there a best or ideal distance to position a miter track away from the bit?
Do you position the clamp groove or the miter groove closest to the bit?
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-10-2020, 07:56 AM
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When you say clamp grove are you talking about the feather board? If so then it depends on how much adjustment your feather board has. You want to be able to hold narrow stock tight to the fence so say you are working with a 3/4" piece of wood. You would position your fence so that it would hold the wood tight. That would determine where you would put your miter track. Don't worry about wide boards you can hold them by hand. When using the miter gauge (usually for doing the ends of rails) you want the miter gauge close enough so that the wood can be held without pivoting. You can attach a narrow board to the miter gauge to bring it right up to the fence for stability. My miter track is about 6" from the fence.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-10-2020, 11:43 AM Thread Starter
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I probably should have looked at the feather boards to see how adjustable they are, or the adjustment range they have. I suppose they come in a lot of different sizes. I'll check on that. Thanks.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-10-2020, 12:09 PM
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Rather than install tracks in my table top I made a jig for doing the ends of things like stiles or half lapping that just runs along the edge of my table. You can do much the same thing with featherboards if you make them yourself and make them longer so that you can clamp them to the edge of the table.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-10-2020, 01:16 PM Thread Starter
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Do you have any pictures? It doesn't seem to be something that's needed a lot.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-10-2020, 01:52 PM
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The range of adjustment depends on the feather board. A TTrack on the fence should be high enough so you can attach a featherboard vertically. I think it is worth the effort to build a fairly tall fence or even split fence. There are featherboards meant for installing on the fence and they are not as tall as the most common ones. Pix of pair of featherboards on router table, holding small piece down and to the fence. Also a pix of shop made featherboard that uses a star knob and Tbolt, on a table saw but usable on a router table IF you cut a slot for the bolt to fit on a slot at any distance.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-10-2020, 02:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DesertRatTom View Post
The range of adjustment depends on the feather board. A TTrack on the fence should be high enough so you can attach a featherboard vertically. I think it is worth the effort to build a fairly tall fence or even split fence. There are featherboards meant for installing on the fence and they are not as tall as the most common ones. Pix of pair of featherboards on router table, holding small piece down and to the fence. Also a pix of shop made featherboard that uses a star knob and Tbolt, on a table saw but usable on a router table IF you cut a slot for the bolt to fit on a slot at any distance.
Here some that show long boards, can be used W/O miter slot just clamps.

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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-10-2020, 03:19 PM
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Quote:
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Do you have any pictures? It doesn't seem to be something that's needed a lot.
Post #72 on page 8 of this thread: https://www.routerforums.com/tools-w...-corner-8.html If I'm doing a job where I want some blowout protection then I just throw one together out of shop scrap so that I have a fresh edge behind my work piece. On the first pass it gets profiled the same as the piece I'm working on then. It takes maybe 5 minutes to throw one together.

This jig has a couple of advantages over a sled that rides against the fence or in a miter slot:

-Your work sits flat on the table instead of on top of the sled so you don't need to worry if your bit is going to be long enough.
-As stated it gives blowout protection which not all sleds will do and as one picture shows you can clamp your work to it just like you can a sled.
-It costs nothing to make. Just grab some appropriate shop scrap and screw /or glue and brad nail it together.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-10-2020, 09:11 PM Thread Starter
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Tom and Herb, nice looking setups.
Chuck....... Takes a long time to get to that page. Soo much to read as I scroll slowly down all those ideas.
Thanks guys, it gives me something to ponder I'm going to look at feather boards to see how many shapes and sizes are out there. I don't think I want to make one.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-11-2020, 12:39 AM
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Tom and Herb, nice looking setups.
Chuck....... Takes a long time to get to that page. Soo much to read as I scroll slowly down all those ideas.
Thanks guys, it gives me something to ponder I'm going to look at feather boards to see how many shapes and sizes are out there. I don't think I want to make one.
Here is a link to a youtube video that past member Claudio Botelho from Brazil made years ago. It's really simple. He's using a bandsaw but it will work on a table saw too, the gaps between the fingers would be wider. He finishes the featherboard in the first minute of it.
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