How to stop a ¼" bit from moving up in its collet? - Page 2 - Router Forums
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post #11 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-12-2020, 05:35 AM Thread Starter
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Default Thank-you all

Thanks for all the good replies. I did check the shank diameter on that bit and it was ¼". It's a little-used spiral bit of good make. That collet I used was an insert that you drop into the ½" hole to bring it down to ¼" and the problem lay there probably. The confusing thing was that I tried several inserts, but the bit rode up in all of them. I did a search, ages ago now, for Triton metric and alternative sized collets, including writing to Triton without reply, and never found anything, but I should have looked again. The reply by Bstrom prompted me to search again on Ebay and yes, there is a place in the UK selling proper original Triton collets, including ¼" and I bought one, so now I am optimistic that this will solve the problem and I can throw out those inserts. Not only that, they also sell 6mm, 8mm and 12mm collets so that will really expand the choice of bits available. I did in fact try some 3/16" and ¼" bits with a half inch shank, but they just broke off at the base of the cutter after only a few minutes, perhaps due to my tendency to buy cheap garbage from Asia, i guess. Oak and maple was not to their liking. But - hopefully - problem solved and thanks so much for the help.
Dave
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post #12 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-12-2020, 08:00 AM
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Dave,

Sorry, I'm late to reply to this.

Does that reducer have one slot or three (one full and two partial)? I found that the ones with just the single slots did not hold my bits well, but the ones with the three slots hold really well, so I tossed the single slot ones.

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post #13 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-12-2020, 09:28 AM
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Glad you found a new collet and let us know if this resolved the issue. Sorry that you got no support from Triton. BTW, welcome aboard Dave.
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post #14 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-12-2020, 11:53 AM
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Welcome to the Router Forums Dave. If you broke the 1/2" shank 1/4" bits within minutes of starting to use them, that brings up the question of overfeeding the bits. That could also cause the 1/4" shank bits to creep from the reducers quicker. You might need to slow down on the rate you are feeding the stock or adjust the depth of cuts you are making. Let the bits do the work, they will last longer.

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post #15 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-12-2020, 12:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daveg View Post
Thanks for all the good replies. I did check the shank diameter on that bit and it was ¼". It's a little-used spiral bit of good make. That collet I used was an insert that you drop into the ½" hole to bring it down to ¼" and the problem lay there probably. The confusing thing was that I tried several inserts, but the bit rode up in all of them. I did a search, ages ago now, for Triton metric and alternative sized collets, including writing to Triton without reply, and never found anything, but I should have looked again. The reply by Bstrom prompted me to search again on Ebay and yes, there is a place in the UK selling proper original Triton collets, including ¼" and I bought one, so now I am optimistic that this will solve the problem and I can throw out those inserts. Not only that, they also sell 6mm, 8mm and 12mm collets so that will really expand the choice of bits available. I did in fact try some 3/16" and ¼" bits with a half inch shank, but they just broke off at the base of the cutter after only a few minutes, perhaps due to my tendency to buy cheap garbage from Asia, i guess. Oak and maple was not to their liking. But - hopefully - problem solved and thanks so much for the help.
Dave
Wow! You had to really run around the barnyard to get this resolved, but am sure glad you’re on the right track - new parts is an easy solution. Here in the US, we use 1/4” and 1/2” collets - makes it easy to order bits, which I try to get in a 1/2” shaft whenever possible. Hardwoods like oak can really test a bit so shallow cuts are a necessity to avoid jams - I’ve had my share.

PS: Cheap bits simply dangerous - good ones aren’t that expensive and last a long while under normal use.

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post #16 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-12-2020, 02:26 PM
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I think Mike is on the right track saying that it sounds like you are feeding too fast for the depth of cut. Not all insert bushings are made equal I think. I've seen lots say they had trouble with them. My Hitachi M12V only came with a 1/2" collet and they supplied a 1/2 to 1/4 bushing with the router and I've never had a bit slip once in it. But the M12V collet is also the best I've evr used too which may be a factor. I have quite a few from Lee Valley too for different sizes including metric ones and haven't had a problem with those. I think though if you are using a bushing that it is probably a good idea to re-torque it once it starts getting hot if you are in production mode. That might be why some have had trouble with them. I'm rarely in production mode so that might be why I haven't had issues with them.

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post #17 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-12-2020, 03:34 PM
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Since I am running musclechucks on all my routers, I ordered the reducer collets from them and not had a problem.
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post #18 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-12-2020, 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Herb Stoops View Post
Since I am running musclechucks on all my routers, I ordered the reducer collets from them and not had a problem.
Herb
Herb - I watched the videos on the Musclechuck website - is minimizing runout using the Musclechuck going to improve tear out with a dovetail jig or running channels for glass in rails and stiles? Or is that not a solution to those issues?

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post #19 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-12-2020, 06:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bstrom View Post
Herb - I watched the videos on the Musclechuck website - is minimizing runout using the Musclechuck going to improve tear out with a dovetail jig or running channels for glass in rails and stiles? Or is that not a solution to those issues?
all the muscle chuck does is facilitate bit changing...

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If only new layers hadn't been added....

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post #20 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-12-2020, 06:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bstrom View Post
Herb - I watched the videos on the Musclechuck website - is minimizing runout using the Musclechuck going to improve tear out with a dovetail jig or running channels for glass in rails and stiles? Or is that not a solution to those issues?
a quality sharp bit and climb cutting will minimize tearout..
not the muscle chuck...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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