Easy Method for Box Joints - Router Forums
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-29-2020, 04:45 PM Thread Starter
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Default Easy Method for Box Joints

This is an interesting video on a simple method of making box joints on a router table. This guy is fearless and has a lot of personality! LOL


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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-29-2020, 05:38 PM
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No jig, but he's using spacer boards the exact width of his router bit. It works great, except his joints are too tight for glue.

Charley
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-29-2020, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by CharleyL View Post
No jig, but he's using spacer boards the exact width of his router bit. It works great, except his joints are too tight for glue.

Charley
Charley, I am no good at working thos out in my mind: would i help if th blocks were a smidgeon wider than the router bit, e.g. by a strip of paper? Or would that just offset the cuts without altering the fit? The method look too enticingly simple to simply discard without attempting to fix its shortcoming.
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-29-2020, 07:17 PM
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Not bad...but more impressed at the cutter cutting rather than making just sawdust...

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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-29-2020, 10:46 PM
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I see no advantage over the box joint jigs of the type I saw on the Router Workshop, knock offs of which are sold bt MLCS/Eagle America, probably elsewhere. Those jigs could be made in any size.

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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-30-2020, 01:21 AM
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Interest ing. It struck me that if the bottom protruded maybe 1/4" or so it would be possible to stack boxes. I have a few things that would work well for. And if glued the bottom in that might be sufficient to hold the box together, with no need to glue the joints. On the other than if you only needed a box for temporary use at one time they should stay together with just friction, and then could be taken apart and stored using less space until next time needed. Could drill a hole down thru each corner then glue a small dowel in.
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-30-2020, 01:32 AM
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Interesting concept. I kept checking his hands to see if any fingers were missing and in fact the tip of his left index finger did look slightly odd.
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Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-30-2020, 10:16 AM
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Making the spacer boards a few thousandths wider than the router bit would increase the width of the pin, but the router bit and it's cut would remain the same size, so the joint would become tighter, or not fit at all. Reducing the width of the spacer boards by a few thousandths of an inch would narrow the pins and the router bit cut would remain the same width, so this should work, if all of your spacer boards are exactly the same width and just a few thousandths smaller than 2X the size of the router bit. The joints won't need to be pounded together, and there will be just enough room for the glue.

Notice how the work pieces all seem to have been glued together before cutting too. He had to pull them apart before he could assemble them. This is actually a good idea to keep them from moving during the cutting. I'm wondering what the glue choice was, since they were so easily pulled apart after cutting.

Watch the video closely and you will see that the spacer boards are being added between the fence and the work for each of his passes. I have tried this method, and much prefer my Incra I-Box jig on my Unisaw with Freud SBOX8 blade set for making easy and repeatable box joints with nearly no tear-out. You will notice that he doesn't show the back side of his cuts. All you can see is the front side of the work pieces, and he is using pine, a very soft and flexible wood.

I just completed making some "Apple Boxes" from Baltic Birch plywood late yesterday. This is the movie industry name for them. They were made to be used in my photo/video studio. With the capability of making them in my shop, I was not about to pay $2-300 for a set of them, and I made 2 sets for 1/3 of the out-of-pocket cost of 1 purchased set of poorly made and nailed together "Apple Boxes". All of mine, except the 1" high, have box jointed corners that were made using my Incra I-Box jig on my Unisaw, using a Freud SBOX8 blade set to make the 3/8" box joints and all of the joints are very clean with no tear-out. I'll post photos and more detailed information about these boxes later today in a new thread.

He isn't one of the more safety minded woodworkers either. I cringed when I saw him hand feeding the boards through his sliding table saw.

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Last edited by CharleyL; 04-30-2020 at 10:24 AM.
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-30-2020, 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by CharleyL View Post
Making the spacer boards a few thousandths wider than the router bit would increase the width of the pin, but the router bit and it's cut would remain the same size, so the joint would become tighter, or not fit at all. Reducing the width of the spacer boards by a few thousandths of an inch would narrow the pins and the router bit cut would remain the same width, so this should work, if all of your spacer boards are exactly the same width and just a few thousandths smaller than 2X the size of the router bit. The joints won't need to be pounded together, and there will be just enough room for the glue.


He isn't one of the more safety minded woodworkers either. I cringed when I saw him hand feeding the boards through his sliding table saw.

Charley
I read that and thought that reducing the shims slightly (or bigger) would result in a compounding error That eventually would cause the pins to not line up. But maybe if you used one shim that was slightly off size and then kept all the others the same size as the bit then that might work.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-30-2020, 02:46 PM
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I'm wondering what the glue choice was, since they were so easily pulled apart after cutting.
The only two adhesives I can think that might work for that would be paste, or rubber cement. Thin stripes of either.

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